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I recently purchased a 1962 Mooney m20c. I'm having an issue starting the airplane. It has no primer, so I'm supposed to pump the throttle once or twice before starting. But I'm having no success with that. It seems to start when I lean it halfway or completely leaned with virtually no throttle. Then other times, it will start with a 1/2 push of the throttle to prime. I haven't figured it out yet, but at least I can usually get it started now, usually takes 4-5 eight second attempts, rather than a few blades. My brother, an auto mechanic said that if the carb float stopped floating it would produce a rich, flooded condition? I deleted some info. on fuel burn which turned out to be 11.2 gallons rather than 15.4 . My apologies for the error. Any one experience this? Do I need to rebuild the carb?

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum (also knew to airplane ownership). Since I bought my 77' M20J a month ago I have been having problems with starting it. When I follow the POH, the engine doesn't start on my first attempt. After letting the starter cool, I cycle the throttle and mixture and it usually starts on the second or third attempt. Most of my flight experience has been in CG helicopters - with digital engine controls, and I've never had starting problems. My problem might just be my limited experience with GA aircraft. These are the key steps I follow in starting my Mooney. Can any of you give me advice? Am I doing something wrong? 1. Electric boost pump ON (1-2 seconds, to establish fuel pressure) 2. Mixture full forward for 3-5 seconds. (when I do this, the fuel pressure drops) then IDLE CUTOFF 3. Throttle 1/4 forward 4. Engage starter 5. Once the engine starts, Mixture slowly to full rich 6. Throttle - 1000-1200 RPM Thanks, Roger

To make a painful story short as i can - '68 M20C with O-360-A1D just out of annual, mags had 500hr IRAN, engine runs great on local flight. Then I flew 2 hrs to Hyannis yesterday- no problems at all. I come back this am and try to start, temps in 50s, Starting vibrator box buzzes, battery is strong, starter turns great, but not the slightest hint of combustion going on. I then get it preheated- still won't make any combustion. I have the mechanic come out on a Sunday - he finds no spark being made on bottom plugs. Connections from starting vibrator to left mag are fine, harness and plugs are fine. I suspect a left mag problem caused by the recent IRAN. But then he checks the starter switch, finds multiple loose connections to the switch, tightens them all. It makes spark, starts immediately. But I don't really get what happened here because I don't know the system well enough. My questions- Did the p-lead ground fail to be broken because a loose connection to the starter switch? If so, would it have been possible for the mags to ground unintentionally in flight? I would think the opposite- it would leave you with a hot mag. Anything else I should investigate here? For whatever it's worth, the ignition switch was replaced in the last 10 years, is made by TCM.

As helpful as you guys are, I wish I were flying instead of writing to the forum... Since buying my '68 M20F a few months ago, I have learned quite a lot about starting techniques and have tried all of them. No technique is reliable for me when the engine is hot, or even just warm. Here's what happens on a typical start: 1. First crank will go for six or seven blades, then when I get the first hint of a cylinder firing, the prop stops cold and the starter motor just whirs (disengaged from the ring gear). 2. Second crank will go for three or four blades, then a cylinder lights off and the prop stops cold, starter still spinning but no longer engaged. 3. Third crank will go for two or three blades, then the prop stops and the starter motor disengages. 4. Subsequent cranks go for one or two blades if I am lucky, but usually the starter motor just whirs and doesn't even engage in the first place (as though I have run down the battery). 5. If I let it sit for a while, I can get another 3-4 blade crank, and maybe the engine will start successfully. If I get a jump start, the engine cranks noticeably faster and after 8-10 blades I can usually get it to fire up. I had the battery replaced (RG-35AXC) and the behavior didn't change. Battery voltage indicates a well-charged battery (12.4V+) even after several starting attempts. Battery voltage measured at the starter solenoid while cranking does not drop below 10V. I had the starter solenoid replaced and the behavior didn't change. Yes, I am using cold start/hot start/flooded start techniques as appropriate. Often I find excess fuel dripping from the cowl flaps. The problem happens even if the engine hasn't been started yet but the outside air temp is above 90F. However, if the aircraft has been sitting for two weeks and the OAT is only 75F, she cranks fast and, after a longish crank, she will fire up. I have plenty of evidence to rule out battery self-discharge or an external load draining the battery. TSMOH is 700 hours. The starter was replaced six years ago, still shiny. The mags (Slick) were overhauled during the major. Plugs are new. On my mag check, I get a 60-70 RPM drop on the right mag and a 80-120 RPM drop on the left mag, EGTs rise on all cylinders for both mags, and I get no rough running. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.