funvee

Awesome!! We have our own TROLL! That means the forums are BIG LEAGUE now!!

I'm Sooooooo blonde!!! Turns out I followed the wrong breaker output obviously earlier so now that I'm on the correct breaker, the problem was easy to fix..... A bad 5a breaker . What a a fun couple of days

Disregard that last post... It appears I followed the power line to the vacuum switch. Grrrr

Ok, this is getting wierd... I checked the breaker:good I followed the wire from the breaker to the gear switch as in the schematic: fail That wire runs all the way up to the back of the Heading indicator where there is a switch with three posts on it. One post is from the breaker and it has power. The other two posts look to be running to the panel around the area of the gear lights and maybe the vacuum lights. Neither of those two post have post. My guess is that this mystery switch is failing BUT I can't find it in the shop manual or in the parts manual schematics. Anyone have any idea what it is? I've tried taking pictures of it but it's lable is pointing down and so far I can't get a light to show up more that. The word 'switch' on it.

That is a very good point! I hadn't even thought about the way the power in the schematic goes directly to the red and green lights for the push to test to function. I must have a broken wire between the breaker and the gear switch. I'll test that line tomorrow and will keep the post updated. Thanks Mooniac15u, you saved me a bunch of extra testing that wouldn't have helped matters.!! Shawn

So i'm out here tracing wirers etc to look for anything obviously not connected but it all looks ok. I checked that the power after the breaker is ok... It is. Next I tried to check the power at the gear switch because that appears to be the first step for the power in the schematic. Problem is, I can't get a power reading on any of the three posts in it. It is on a crappy place to get a probe on though so it might be just an accessibility issue on that. My new questions are: if the gear switch was faulty, would that make the ram air warning light fail as well? And which switch is it in the parts manual? Is it the AN3224-1 or the gear warning switch BZ-7-RWT80? And we're do you buy them if it is the problem? I can't find that number on a parts search. Thanks!

Awesome, this is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks Jerry! I'll post what I find after I take a look at it today. Shawn

LOL.. No, I didn't rotate them to close the iris They are the red and the green ones.

Hi everyone, I haven't been on here in quite some time because my Mooney has been zipping along swimmingly over that last year... It got me through my CPL and the IFR part of my MIFR rating and has me closing in on my 500hr point, but today I ran into a new issue. When preflighting, I noticed that both the gear down and gear up lights didn't function. I borrowed the bulb from the working Vac low light and tested both of them but they still didn't fire up. I checked all of my breakers and all were good as gold (from appearances). I thought I might have a failing breaker but I can't find out which breaker controls those two lights. So, my questions are: C) Does anyone know which breaker those two are on? J) Does anyone have an idea of where else in the system it could have failed so that both lights won't light when pushed to test? I thought it must be a ground to those lights but figured I'd see if anyone else has invented the wheel before I go off and do it again. Thanks for any help! Shawn

Is this the 700 or the 800? I see it listed as 700/800 but they are different units and I can't get the pictures to open up to see for my self. I'll look when I get to a real computer but if you can send in the mean time that would be great. Thanks Shawn

I got a quote/info back from Bellofram for the ones mentioned above. The contact I have is Nancy (ngamble @ bellofram.com) and she quoted $100 / each or $50 each if purchasing 5 or more. They ship within one week. Class 4 Rolling Diagphragm DC DP H Wsw (in)2 C Stroke SA/SB 4.00 3.75 4.00 F 11.79 .125* 3.49

Thats awesome... It looks like what i need so I have placed the order from TAS. Thanks for looking it up for me, I really appreciate it! Shawn

U da man!! Thanks!!

I've read the other threads about the hoskins units ... everyone else seems to have the 701295-3 but I have the 701295-1... Does anyone know the difference between them? I would like to find a direct replacement or a Whellen conversion but nobody seems to list the -1 on their conversion tables or in the threads talking about it. Also, if anyone knows what is required to convert to whellen, I'd appreciate any guidance you can provide. Thanks, Shawn

Does anyone know who else might carry the springs? The people at Lasar said they don't have a listing for the spring I need (67 F). Thanks!

Has anyone figured out how one of these can be ordered? I would like to try one too but the ordering process on their site made it difficult to find a part number to order or quote.

I'm just going by the reviews I've been finding on the internet about them... Tons of trash spoken about dukes but I haven't found anything but positive comments about the Weldons. Not scientific research by any stretch but the cool thing about owning our own planes is that we don't have to install something we aren't comfortable with when here are other options. I'm going to have to verify I have the upstream filter tomorrow when I'm out. Thanks

Thanks, I spoke to cj aviation today and they rattled off a list of things that are improved over the Dukes in theirs and you are correct the M20F one is the 4140-0019acj. I don't remember all the stuff but some of it was, permanent magnets instead of wound, no rubber used in the seals for the relief section. It's a direct replacement with no bracket needed . They did say that it is still the nylon vanes and that the upsteam filter is a must for any pumps with them. I would still prefer the Weldon impeller but this is my second choice, thanks for mentioning them. Looks like a better solution to me personally. Thanks!

Do you know the part number for the cj one? Is it a straight bolt in replacement with no other changes required? Does it use the nylon vanes like the original dukes. Thanks!

For me, it's the plastic vanes... IF, I can get the full info on the process (drawings), I want to go with something (like the Weldon) that can't take out the downstream mechanical pump when the vanes break. That and the 'Dukes not available anymore' issue have me looking for a solution that can be quickly replaced if it ever does fail. Being in Canada, doing a ship out to rebuild is a major downtime and PITA to do customs etc. replacement from aircraft spruce would be overnight if I get the Weldon solution in place. Just my thinking, not saying its correct for everyone.

Photo update... Here's some shots from under the panel. Also, I spoke to Weldon sales and while they said that the A8163A is the correct pump, they also said that the bracket and pump assembly would have to be a field approval if I don't do the method through Mooney. He said they don't have a 18000 model for the replacement of the 1499-00-19 but it's on the list of ones to do. So if anyone has the drawings about where to move the bracket too and what the weldon bracket looks like, that would be great! Thanks, Shawn

Thanks but I won't be putting a Dukes back in so at this point I'm just trying to make the Weldon swap as smooth for my AME as possible. I hope to be out at the hangar to look under the panel with him this afternoon but if in anyone has drawings or if anyone knows if the 18000-a has been installed in an F model, that'd be a great help!

Very good question as that would save a bunch of running around and delays... If anyone has a copy of the drawings for installing a Weldon 18000-a or a Weldon 8163-a in a m20f that they could share, I'll show it to my AME to see what he thinks it'll take to get it done. Thanks! PS I'm leaning towards the Weldon replacement after reading the other threads about how poorly made the dukes are. No point in rebuilding a POS.