PeytonM

After David tightened the cowl flap motor screws, I paid more attention to the cowl flap behavior. Yesterday during a long flight in smooth air, it took almost 4 minutes for the cowl flaps to settle 1/4 open. Before it was closer to 2 minutes, so I wonder if vibration is contributing. It’s a new engine installation, so maybe prop misbalance or vibration contributes. We tried pulling the cowl flap open manually and the motor did not budge.

It did not fix the issue. It takes about 3 minutes to move from fully closed to 1/4 open and I lose 2-3 knots.

I flew again today and after setting up in cruise with the cowl flaps closed, and moving the switch to off, I watched the cowl flap drift to 1/4 open in about a minute. I then closed them. (I know that there was a change because I could hear a difference in sound.) I repeated the experiment and same thing. If I leave the switch in the closed position, the cowl flaps remained closed. I suspect that puts a continuous load on the motor, which cannot be good. What could be amiss? Where do I start; the motor?

Interesting. Where did you get the motor? And when/how recently?

I flew again today and after setting up in cruise with the cowl flaps closed, and moving the switch to the center position/off, I watched the cowl flap drift to 1/4 open in about a minute. I then closed them. (I know that there was a change because I could hear a difference in sound.) I repeated the experiment and same thing. If I leave the switch in the closed position, the cowl flaps remained closed. Is that how it’s supposed to work?

Over the past couple of Annuals, my A&P has worked diligently to remove all play in the cowl flap mechanism. When I do a preflight and grab the cowl flaps, there is virtually zero play. When we started, both had a pretty good rattle to them; now there is nothing. Why would the cowl flap indicator and the cowl flaps move to 1/4 open when in cruise?

Recently I’ve noticed that my electric cowl flaps (‘89J) are creeping from totally closed to about 1/4 open during cruise. I can close them, but they will creep 1/4 open after a few minutes. Is the cowl flap motor the likely suspect?

Thank you everyone for your collective thoughts! As I first posted, I am in the final stages of having a factory rebuilt IO360A3B6 installed in my 1989 J. At 4200 hrs. TT, including a Poplar Grove field OH at 2100, I decided to go Factory with this one, replacing the original 'D' variant with the 'non-D.' After about a 19 month wait(!) and $55K(!!), the engine arrived at Oasis, and they were ready to do the initial ground run when the ACS was published. So we have taken a pause to collect data, but it's mostly just opinions. I've looked at SDRs and don't find a consistent story, either. Of course we do not know what the denominator is, so it is impossible to calculate the frequency. Calls and emails to Lycoming have gone unanswered. I am not sure what my options are; I went so far as to put a Precision/RSA servo on hold at Spruce. That would be on my 'nickel.' Probably a little crazy. OK, a lot crazy! My former engine went many hours and many landings. I've owned this airplane since 1993, so most of those hours & landings are mine. About a year ago, the engine quit during rollout after landing, and no issues were found, and it has not repeated since. I guess that is a "roll-back" and that engine had a Precision/RSA fuel servo. I will admit, this has kept me awake, wondering what I should do, if anything. I figured if I was going to do anything, now would be the time. Maybe it's a nothingburger, or maybe it will be a AD. I want to make sure that I have done as much as I can to assure that the engine is safe. I just don't want to worry about this when I take Mary flying.

Why would the design of the AvStar fuel servo make it more susceptible to “roll-backs” than the RSA?

I can confirm my factory rebuilt has the AvStar. Why are we just hearing about this now??

Why are we just hearing about this now??

https://avbrief.com/faa-investigates-io-360-rollbacks/ I’m sure you’ve seen this already. One step away from an AD. And I’m in the final stages of factory rebuilt installation in my J! OMG!

How do you set it to “flight time?” Is that one of the options on the Menu, or do I need to go to Config?

I have the G3X. I have set Engine Time to start recording at 1700 RPM. It’s not proportional to 2500n it “on” or “off.” Is there a way to have it record proportionally based on 1:1 at 2500 similar to what the “old” meter did? Or a better way?

Happened to me, too. Had to have it re-rigged. Test flight was exciting!

Thank you. It was keeping me up at night!

I heard your presentation on the Alaska trip at the MS. I’m so glad these instances happened on the ground; outcome in flight could be so much different. My J is at Willmar undergoing installation of factory rebuilt IO360A3B6. Slick mags; I wonder if they’re new?! I had the option of one e-mag, but told myself one big change at a time: D- to non-D. Maybe I’ll regret that. The D-engine that I am replacing is at 4200 hrs (overhauled in 2004 by Poplar Grove)

I’ve seen this a couple times recently. After a couple minutes, display is normal.

On a flight yesterday, about 10 minutes into the flight with the GFC500 flying, climbing to and level at 7000 for about 3 minutes, my G3X generated error messages, showed chevrons to climb, A/P beeped at me, but did not disconnect. I was level at 7000. I disconnected and reconnected A/P a couple times with no change. I finally pulled the PFD CB, waited a few seconds, reset it. All good for the remaining 1 hr+ of the flight. I landed and took off, everything worked perfectly. No turbulence. Pics below.

I don’t think you can even buy them anymore. At least the “M20” brand. I’ve had it on my plane for >2000 hrs. Belly is clean, but I still don’t fill it to 8. I usually start w/6 plus CG and let it get down to under 5, then add a quart. I’ve seen drips of oil on the left nose gear door. How/should you clean these: taking it off & running solvent thru it? I assume they don’t wear out.

I finally replaced the halogen lights with LEDs, so I have the two used ones and one in-box, never used. They were from my 1989 28V J-model. Cannot bear to toss them, so I’ll let them go for shipping cost. You can Zelle me after you get the lights. (Btw, I’ll send the resistors, too, if you want them. The LEDs wouldn’t fit in the wingtips with the resistors.) lmk. Peyton

Hmm. Its original. 1989 J. I guess I’ll have to drill the holes.

Mine does.

Any suggestions on preventing cracking at the screw holes? Has anyone used rubber washers or grommets to reduce stress cracks? (I know: don’t tightened the screws so much.)

Any suggestions for a replacement, maybe an elf? Mooney 201, serial #24-3114 LASAR shows no stock. ($185) I emailed LPAero Plastics.