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N1026F

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Everything posted by N1026F

  1. At 5'7", no one ever accused me of being too tall for anything...
  2. Fellow iPad users, Attached you'll find my "perfect" solution to the iPad mounting problem: See Photos below. I didn't like the options presented by the various vendors. I wanted a mount within my immediate scan and reach that did not block my view of the G500 AI/PFD-MFD. I wanted it as low as possible and never obstructing full control range of motion. I also wanted a mount that I could place and remove the iPad quickly. The the black plastic t-screws at the bottom of the mount, I simply use one of my daughter's black elastic hair bands to hold it on top. Though, I've found in regular flight that gravity still works fine to hold it in place. As many of you know, the Ovation has thick leather covered yoke handles. This works well as it give little play to the potential sid-to-side movement of the iPad. (I actually have the iPad2 but I beleive the critical dimensions are the same for the original iPad). Notheless, I simply flip the cover over to the back of the iPad and it serves as a friction and cushion to the device. Instructions for fabrication: I went to Lowe's hardware and purchased the following: 3 sheets of Lexan polycarbonate 6 aluminum fastners (as shown) I had the Autel IFR chart plate bracket that originally had a thin aluminum plate that could be removed and attached by the t-screws that I reused as gravity stops. 1) Clamp, cut and shape the Lexan sheets together using a band saw and a mounted belt sander. Don't worry about a finished edge until after final assembly. 2) Attach the clamp the the yoke control rod and move it as close to the yoke as it can get. 3) Pivot the top brackett so that you can sit the first Lexan sheet flush with the bracket face while the sheet also makes contact with the center of the yoke--that'll be important to keep it from bobbing around when you tighten everything down later. 4) Center the sheet where you want it to sit. Mark the two screw holes with a Sharpie. (It is helpful to have your iPad availabe during this mock-up to be sure it's as you want it before marking the holes). 5) I found the machine screws to mount the first sheet in my screw replacement kit I use during annuals--I think they're a common machine thread used on the M20's inspection panels. Drill the holes to clear the outside thread diameter of the machine screws and attach the first plate. 6) Place the second sheet of Lexan directly over the assembly and mark the center of the screws from step 5 above. Drill relief holes slightly larger in diameter than the screw heads. 7) Remove the bracket and set it asside for now. 8) Place the third Lexan sheet over the other two and clamp the three sheets together firmly. Mark the holes for the corners and the middle of the long sides. (Make sure these holes will not be below the iPad to minimalize the potential for scratches--though, the aluminum fastners seem to be soft enough to avoid this, as well.) Drill the holes to make the fastners a snug fit. 9) Drill the holes on the bottom of the top two sheets, sheets 2 and 3, to accomodate the t-head screws at the bottom. Drill a couple of larger relief holes in sheet 1 to accomodate a nut for the bottom of the t-head screws 9) Remove the protective paper if you've managed to resist up to now. Attach the first sheet to the bracket snugly. 10)Place the top two sheets on the assembly and loosely fasten the six aluminum screws down around the three sheets until everything lines up then snug them down. 11) Place the t-head screw at the bottom and attach with matching self-tightening nuts. 12) Belt sand or file the edges to make all the sheet the same exact size and finish. ...let me know if you have questions... If you'd like me to make them for you I'd consider taking a large order. It makes it easier if you have the right tools... Dan'l P.S. I just found the bracket supplier: Autel Corporation, www.autelcorp.com ph: 408-738-8204
  3. Jeev, Just food for thought: I received my IFR training (the last of three instructors) from a Mooney factory test pilot, Dylan Foley. He explained to me that the factory paint process is so exact that the paint is applied by considering the unpainted weight and balance and then offsetting any off-axis balance issues so that the plane stays in trim and minimally affect useful load after the paint dries. He has a web site: foleyaero.com. I'm sure he'd be more than willing to share any of those issues with you. And yes, having this guy as an IFR instructor made ALL the difference in training; he was and is first rate. He's also an incredible person. Personally, I'd go with a real original paint scheme that's a show stopper! If you're gonna spend the money and keep the bird. Have you ever seen the thunderbird yellow Acclaim? Dan'l
  4. New to posting here--tried on the iPad and couldn't do it. Love the site otherwise. Mahalo! Mooniac58! Without the specific intent of starting a firestorm, I have to point out that a number of posts on this thread seem to be the product of confirmational bias. This is the opposite of an analytical mind and the antithesis of an organization that would seem to be very anytical by nature; our planes don't stay in the air because we will them to do so. As the first member of a minority political party, I understand that one must believe in something. I believe in things that work and will listen to concepts and political dogma only if they work as well, and will politely pummel and then ignore an opinion that shows up to the field of battle of wits unnarmed. My party is the RPM Party: "Radically Pragmatic Moderates" Whose with me??!! Dan'l '04 Ovation2 Baylor JD '94
  5. Jeev, I guess you've decided to keep the best J Model out there a little longer? --former 1YG owner...
  6. New to site. First post: I fabricated the "perfect mount" if anyone wants to see pictures. You just need some basic fabrications skills...
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