robert14

There is an easier way to replace your filter without spilling even a drop on your plane. Take a big green heavy duty 3 mil garbage bag, 35, 40 gal for example. Unfold it and gently work it into the space below the filter. It doesn't look like there is enough room but there is. Once you have it in the space below the filter, gently take the edges of the bag and bring them back up over the filter. Make sure the edges of the bag circumvent the filter. Now loosen the filter with your wrench and unscrew by hand until the filter drops into the bag. Take a clean rag and clean the oil from around the adapter. Now gently work the filter back out of the engine space. Bingo. Oil and filter removed with no oil dripping onto the engine or firewall.

I do not have a part number. Just call Brittain and ask about the "manual" valve instead of the servo. Does not effect yoke switch. Both still work. The valve is simply plumbed into the vacuum line in serial with the button on the yoke. I'll try to get the part number next time I am at my hanger.

On a recent night flight, just after I replaced my old belly strobe with a new LED belly strobe, my incandesent landing light failed on final approach. There was enough light from the flashing LED belly strobe to light up the runway just before and during the flare. I have now replaced "all" lights on my 65 M20E with LEDs.

Why do you need a servo? I have a small pneumatic push-pull valve-switch in serial to the button on the yoke. Works great. You can see it on my panel photo just below the throttle and to the right of then yoke. Pull and the PC is activated, push and it is off.

FYI, sometime in the distant past, before I bought my 65 M20E, someone had installed a small pneumatic push-pull switch on the panel that performs the same function as the button on the yolk. Without that switch, I do not know how folks would comfortably fly the plane. Do you have such a switch on your plane?

I had the same problem with my 65 M20E. It turned out to be the gyro. My mechanic called the Brittian (sp) folks and returned the gyro for repair. It took about 2 weeks and cost about $200. I was impressed. the system works great now.

I am based at Chino Airport in Ca. It was 107 deg the other day when I fired up my arctic cooler while taxing. It is great. I stop at the 7/11 on the way to the airport and buy 2, 20lb bags and 1, 5 lb bag of ice for $13.00. I have the vent blowing cold air on the back of my neck during taxi and climb. it works best if you close all the vents. You should have a CO detector in the cockpit while using the cooler. I turn it off and open the vents during cruise. The ice will last for about 3 hours of operation. If not being used, the ice will last about 4 days in the cooler. To remove the water just unfold the return line (1/2 inch, 5 ft clear plastic tube) and siphon over the side. Takes about 15 min to drain.

Make sure that you have Mooey SB 182 installed. From a look at your photo ID, you do not have this mod. It will significantly reduce your CHTs and oil temps.

Hi Erik. I purchased the O2D2 with the large tank. The strap tie-down system that comes with the O2D2 works great for attaching it to the rear of the pilot seat. I store the O2D2 unit in the zipper compartment that is part of the strap tie-down system. I attached a small strip of velcro to the ceiling between the front seats for operational use of the O2D2 unit. Here is my operatioinal scenario: 1) During pre-flight, I remove the O2D2 unit from the zipper compartment, attach it to the velcro on the ceiling and verify "off" position on the unit (I leave the O2 tubes between the unit and the O2 tank always hooked up whether in storage or in use), 2) I open the O2 tank valve and verify the tank pressure, 3) I pre-flight the airplane, 4) I get into the airplane and attach the breathing tube device (starts with a c) around my head and nose, 5) I switch the O2D2 unit to "demand" to verify operation and then switch to "5K". As you pass through 5K ft, the unit will start working. As you descend through 5K ft the unit stops working. 6) After engine shut down, I coil the O2 tube up, verify tank pressure, and put the unit back in the zipper compartment. I can get about 25 hours from a tank. I use a local scuba store for refills ($25). You do not need to operate the tank valve while in flight although with some rearrangement in your seat you can get to the valve during flight and can read the pressure guage. I have verified, during flight, that I can open/close the valve and read the pressure guage but have never had a reason to do it. A passenger can easily open/close the valve or read the pressure guage (green, yelow, red).

I found my max altitude one evening during a practice IFR flight, at night, at 10,000 ft. After an hour of hooded flight, I began having trouble maintaining my altitude and heading. My instructor began nagging me. His nagging did not help. I struggled for about 10 minutes trying to maintain heading and altitude while blaming it on the weather. It only got worse. Then, my fingers starting starting tingling. I realized at that moment that I was experiencing hypoxia. I alerted my instructor who took over and immediately requested ATC permission for a quick descent to MEA, 6000 ft at the time. My symptoms continued to grow worse during the descent with general weakness, sweating, tingling fingers, and nausea. As we approached 6000 ft, the symptoms quickly went away and I resumed the flight as POC. I was lucky I had an instructor with me. My doctor claims that your max altitude and time at altitude are a function of your health and age. I am healthy and 64. I now use the O2D2 requlator and an O2 bottle strapped to the back of my seat whenever I fly above 6000 ft.

I replaced my TC with a Castleberry AI when I began my IFR training in my 65 M20E about a year ago. Works great. The only "issue" is making a standard rate turn without the rate indication. During slow flight, 90 mph, I use 17 deg (half-way between the 15 and 20 deg marks. For slow cruise/climb, 120 mph, I use the 20 deg bank mark for standard rate. For normal cruise, 150 mph, I use 22 deg, half-way between the 20 and 25 deg marks. I would not go back back to a TC for IFR.

I purchased the large unit from Sporty's and installed in my 65 M20E cargo hold. Works great with a large amount of air movement. I purchase 45 lbs of crushed ice from 7/11 (20lbs+20lbs+5lbs for $11.00) on the way to the airport, pour it into the chest, and ready to go. I also use it to store cold drinks. When it is 100 deg+ outside, the cold air blowing over your back and head is very refreshing. The cooling performance is similiar to a car AC. The ice will last about 3.5 hours while the unit is running and about 5 days if the unit is not running. I turn it off at cruise and turn it on when I start my descent. To empty the water, there is a 6 foot plastic hose that you hang over the side of the plane while the water siphons out to the ground.

Also, in Southern California, there are no plans to do away with TIS.

I paid about $4,600 for the hardware and installation. When compared to the alternatives, I considered it to a very reasonable price. The 696 was $3600 and the portable traffic warning box was $1200, plus I had to worry about cables and set-up every-time I flew. That's $4800 without the XM radio.

There is also a remote available for a few hundred bucks that allows the passengers to control the XM radio function.

With the GLD90 and GTX330 you get weather, TIS, and XM radio displays on your 430. The TIS info and weather can be overlaid on the 430 moving map. The XM radio is always on and is controlled by the mute function.

I have one of these boxes in my M20E. I fly out of Chino in Southern California. It works great in high traffic areas which is where I spend most of my time. I actually use the TIS display more then any other display on my 430 when I am in a high traffic area.

I have a factory external power plug on my 65 M20E. It "does not" allow for a "jump start" of the engine. There is a relay in the circuit that "disconnects" the starting/battery circuit and bypasses the master switch when external 14V is applied. I use a Spruce 14V power supply to plug into the port on the right side of the plane just behind the wing trailing edge. I have spent many hours using this feature to famialize myself with operation of my Garmin 430 and SL30. To jump start my engine, I still have to remove the access panel (behind the left wing) to the battery and use standard jumper cables.

I purchased my M20E about a year ago. I had 220 to 235 deg EDM700 oil temps (205 to 210 on the factory guage) on my M20E. Verified temp sensors, added new oil cooler and hoses, addednew vernatherm, maintained 8 qts; none of these measures made any difference;. then I found Mooney SB M20-182 on Mooney's web site. I purchased the kit (M2-182-000) and had it overnighted for $240. It took my mechanic 6 hours to install. My oil temps now never go above above 205 deg (100+deg OAT). The kit also reduced my highest CHT temps (#2) 30 deg, from 410 deg down to 380 deg) on climbout. I highly recommend adding this kit to anyone with a M20 E or F and a factory cowl.

Whoops, SB M20-182 is discussed on page 3 of the SBs on the Mooney site. Sorry about the wrong page call-out on my earlier post.

The 201 cowl completly changes the air flow. SB M20-182 only applies to the factory cowl for the M20E and M20F.

For details on Mooney Servive Bulletin m20-182, go to www.mooney.com and look under service bulletins. SB M20-182 is on page 2. The PDF file describes all the details of the kit and how to incorporate it.

With regards to cruise, I was running oil temps of 225-230 deg on the EDM 700 at wot and 2500 (205 deg on the factory guage) before I added the Mooney M20-182 kit. I now run at 200 deg or less on the EDM 700 oil temp during cruise. The kit cost me $240 with overnight delivery. Takes about 6 hours to install.

I have a 1965 M20E. Cylinder head #2, front left, has always been the hottest cylinder head on my plane. A friend of mine also has a 1965 M20E. His number 2 is also the hottest. I recently added the Mooney SB M20-182-000 kit to my plane. It brought #2 and 4 down by about 25 deg and number 4 down about 50 deg. It brought my oil temp down 30 deg. I do not know why #2 runs hottest. During climb-out with wot and 2700, my max CHT is CHT #2 at 380 deg. My max oil temp is 205 deg on my EDM 700. Hope that helps.

Mooney sold me the M20-182-000 kit for about $240 and overnighted via UPS. It took my mechanic 6.5 hours to install. The outcome is extrodinary. My oil temps, even during climp are now 200 or 199, on the EDM 700. My factory guage shows a steady 190 to 195 deg. That is a 25 deg drop in oil temp. My CHTs have gone down almost 40 degs. Before you spend the money on a new cowl, you might want to try the Mooney kit. The price is right. I also have the actual data downloaded from my EDM 700. Robert