tablor

I have the UBG-16 and use lean mode of most every flight in my '66 E. I rarely get CHTs high enough to worry about how long it's taking to get to peak. I would say it takes under 5 minutes if I'm paying attention to the mixture. The number for the first cylinder to peak starts flashing and as the other cylinders peak those numbers begin flashing. I generally wait for each of the cylinders to go over peak before I push the mixture back in to run ROP if that's what I'm doing that day. I'll scroll back to the front page that just reads temps for the cylinder that peaked first and as I go in with the mixture I watch the temps to see if it gets a little hotter with a bit finer adjustment when I get back to the temperature that it recorded as peak. That's it, there's a few things I'm unsure about and we all know that everyone has a bit of a different process. I don't see any harm in running near peak for a minute or two. Anyone ever take the engine management course from the guys in OK? It's been on my list of things to do. http://www.advancedpilot.com/

Quote: Sabremech If this is a common problem, I'd be happy to make new ones and get them certified or can supply them as owner produced parts as they are not flight critical items. I'm in the business of manufacturing and certifying obsolete parts. Check out my website at www.vintageairworks.com I can be reached at 262-914-9589 or by e-mail at david@vintageairworks.com David Staffeldt

Old thread but one that I had missed, sorry to revive it if anyone minds - I've never done it, but have read the POH regarding using a tank "until depletion" and often wondered. I guess I've never looked for info on this topic. It's very comforting to know that should I ever inadvertantly run a tank out of fuel, just switching over the the tank with juice in it should bring my engine back to life. I was surprised that no one mentioned the wing access panel fuel gauges. The gauge is not at the root of the wing so when it's float quits floating I know there's about 7 gallons left in the tank. It's obvious when the needle quits bouncing around and if I catch this event within a couple of minutes I can time 30 min from then and know that there is very little fuel left in the tank without ever running it dry. If you don't have these gauges, I'd highly recommend getting them. I find them terribly useful - it should be noted that they are intended to be accurate on the ground, in level cruise they read lower than actual. The most fuel I've ever purchased to top off is 44 gallons and I can't see *wanting* to need to buy more than that - - but should I ever need to... Thanks for the thread!

Has anyone tried the online Advance Pilot Seminar? I suppose the best question would be, has someone gone through both the live and online courses to offer the benefits of one versus the other? There's a few obvious differences, but the cost differential between the two is significant. I learned of this course quite some time ago and have been interested but haven't decided to cough up the time/money. Any advice/info specifically regarding the course they offer would likely be beneficial to all of us, although it's possible a new thread would be appropriate...

I'm wondering if there is a way to subscribe to a post without posting to the thread. I just discovered the link for subscriptions and I'd like to use it as a way to bookmark a thread wither with good info that I'd like to get back to or one that I'd like to be sure and follow. Thanks. Tablor

Someone else may be able to comment more intelligently as I'm no avionics/electrical expert, but I believe the OEM toggles are breakers also. It's my understanding that if you go with the newer style rocker switches you'll need to add breakers for those items so consider that in the cost and the space those breakers would consume.

GXPD - My E falls in to the same group. The tube inner dia for our models is .320" (140092-1) but at some point it changes .510". The center to center spacing of the tubes is 6.0" (140078-1). Oddly enough the parts catalog calls these tubes the headreast attach tubes, yet I don't see a headrest anyplace in the IPC? Anybody find that? The headrest is listed under optional equipment and I think the 6.0" between tubes remains the same up to an Acclaim. Only the tube dia changes and the design of the headrest itself so any of them ought to be interchangeable. As far as the above comment 'whos going to care anyway' about the install, the optional equipment list does provide a weight/moment/arm for the headrests although I think I've seen a note that says the headrest weight is negligible for W&B. Not sure how weight can be 'negligible' though - it certainly wouldn't be on a newly certified aircraft! The other concern is burn requirements for interior components. The certification basis for our E models is the old CAR 3. (Newer models have some areas that meet newer FAR - see the TC 2A3 for more details to the cert req for your model.) So here's the relevant CAR 3: § 3.388 Fire precautions—(a) Cabin interiors. Only materials which are flashresistant shall be used. In compartments where smoking is to be permitted, the materials of the cabin lining, floors, upholstery, and furnishings shall be flame-resistant. Such compartments shall be equipped with an adequate number of selfcontained ash trays. All other compartments shall be placarded against smoking. So the requirement would be flash resistant if you've got a placard for no smoking and flame resistant if you don't. You'd need to have material certs for the headrest that support this with burn data from an appropriate lab and an 8110-3 signed by an FAA DER. I do rules, here they are for whatever they're worth. You probably could obtain a later Mooney model headrest and install it in accordance with the Optional Equipment drawing legally with a simple logbook sign off. Ok, so everyone should go out to their cars and measure the spacing of the posts on their headrests - if it's 6", check the diameter of the tubes! The cars outside my house are 5 1/8" & 2 3/8".

I've used Lexol on my cars for many years with great results.

Careful using the flap as an adjustment. It's definitely the easy way out, but if the plane is rigged correctly it shouldn't yaw or roll. With the flap out of alignment you're going to increase the drag. Per the spec the flaps only get a range of +/-1 at TO & Ldg and +/-2 in the retracted position. You wouldn't be able to measure this without the correct rigging boards ('Travel boards'). When I had the rigging on mine checked out it was only a couple of hrs labor, well worth it in my opinion. Flies hands off now and I know that it's right.

I'm with kerry. Get the rigging checked out. I see you're in San Antonio, so you've got Lonestar there or come out to Kerrville and meet Ronnie at Dugosh. He's got the appropriate rigging boards and the experience to get it done at a min labor cost. Maybe you can land a tour of the factory while you're out here!

Probably a good idea to consider replacing it with a Skytec. There's a number of benefits to replacing the old Bendix style starter. Otherwise, JimR is 100% correct. If you've got the cowling off, hit it with a shot of Tri-Flow.

If you want it to look factory with your existing factory gauge, it's expensive - probably a rip off. You're best bet financially is to call EI and see what they have to offer. You'll probably get out for ~$1000 with a new TSO'd gauge and maybe additional functionality.

Dugosh may have the part. Looking thru the parts catalogs there's a bunch of different part numbers that are all very similar. I don't think the original configuration had the 3" heading indicator, so you're likely going to have to modify whatever part you get. The original part would have had some lettering on it and the part at planeplastics doesn't show any lettering in their pictures. I'm sure Ronnie would be willing to send you the one that should be correct and work with you if you wanted to try a different one. I've seen stacks of those when I've been at his hangar. Ok, so I needed to talk to Ronnie anyhow, based on your serial number the part number should be 820064-505. He says he's got a 820064-955 which he thinks may work - see the attached photo. He's also got an 820046-3 that looks like it might work better. It's black and where you'd need to modify it for the larger heading indicator the panel is flat. A better picture of your panel would be helpful. Anyhow, call Ronnie, he's very knowledgable on the older Mooney's and I'm sure he'd be glad to help you find something that works.

If you've still got the original Rochester gauge, you may need to get the conversion kit from Mooney (~$2700) or buy a new gauge & transducer from Electronic International. Ronnie at Dugosh knew something about this, you might give him a call. The part from Mooney uses the same gauge as what's in there, but you change the transducer and add an amplifier. Mooney should have the kit with all the parts necessary to make the conversion.