Butch

Well, after looking at a blow up of my photo I now see a couple holes at the top row. It's dark in the hangar and I didn't see those, I'll check it out tomorrow.

I'm working on a 1981 231K and need to remove the AP controller, (see pix). I believe it's a KFC 200, maybe factory installed? I do not see any attaching hardware at the front, and also couldn't find anything at the rear with a mirror. Has anyone removed one of these and can give me some pointers?

In reply to Ragsf15e, the engine is a TSIO-360LB1, P/N 653332, in an M20K. Screenshot from TCM today. It appears they recently updated their online IPC. Their application listings for the 670105 shows the LTSIO-360 and the 550. Could be they haven't amended the 360-LB1 IPC yet. I'm calling TCM customer support tomorrow, might get a different guy with different info.

After seeing this thread I called TCM customer support 2 days to inquire if the P/N 670105 supercedes the 653332 clamp shown on their online IPC. He said the correct part is what is shown on the website, (653332). He said he gets about 10 calls per week regarding availability. He also said they are working on it and are striving to have availability by the AD date. I called the AD POC and he is very familiar with the problem. His solution was to call around and try to find a PMA part....

Solution: I ordered a new filter, P/N CPE 1179. The inner diameter is about .200 larger and fit correctly into the filter housing. At this time I don't have enough info to determine the the cause of the problem.

Sorry guys, I didn't expect anybody to go to the trouble of looking up installation instructions, etc. I should have been more detailed in my first post. The owner told me that he had trouble with the install and had to heat the ends to get it on, and still wasn't sure that it was on correctly. I tried it and it definitely will not go over the "lips" on the filter housing. The correct filter according to the Mooney IPC is CPE-1179. It is an OEM for Mooney, there is no STC application. The only P/N on the filter is on the rubber or neoprene end. I called Challenger to see if it was the correct filter. She told me that she checked with K&N, who makes their filters, that it is a mold number, and it was for an 1175, which is for an M20K. So that led me to Frank at Mooney, who is very prompt with responses and a nice guy. After some back and forth, I talked to the Challenger lady again and she gave me the filter dimensions. The 1175 is almost 4 inches shorter, so I was down the wrong rabbit hole. I checked with Frank and the filter housing is correct. I'm not sure of my next step. I was wondering if anyone else had encountered the same problem. When I get it solved I will post the outcome.

The Challenger air filter element inside diameter is about .100 less than the "lips" on the filter housing and elbow. It will not install despite using the correct grease and heating the moulding ends. I've been in contact with Mooney and Challenger. Has anyone else had this problem?

16-A31

I've had a '57 M20 for about 30 years. If I remember correctly it's S/N 1152. Flew it to OR, MN and Mexico from here in AZ. Haven't flown it much since because I unexpectedly acquired a C210. It's a fun little aircraft, I maintain friends M20 E's and K's, it's interesting to compare. Has original logs, Bill Wheat signed the test flight. You can pm me for questions. Butch

Does anyone know what plywood lumber and thickness?

If I remember correctly the top gasket diameter and width is slightly larger than the bottom. If you still have problems mic out the top "lip" diameter and add the glass thickness plus some to determine the diameter and width of the gasket you need. Sometimes with 2 of the smaller gaskets (bottom), you could get it to seal. If you use the old bottom gaskets as a pattern you haven't solved the problem. I can't remember the numbers, but it may have been a 2 1/4 top and 2 3/16 bottom.

I'm in the process of converting to the Lords, referencing SB 20-161. I have bought some salvage parts but when comparing pix on Ebay, etc, I see some shock links that have notches on the flat of the bottom link and others do not. My originals have them and friends that have converted have both. Can anyone tell me if the "notched" links are need for clearance or something else? I've seen pix of the same P/N with and without. The nose gear link is the part in question, the SB lists it as 540015-1. M20 S/N 1154

Some posts say you can do this just using the A/C weight on the gear. If not, I found this old SL. Haven't tried it yet but if it works it would be an easy solution. SL20-51.pdf

Thanks Joe, I think this is what I need.

I am attempting to rig the stabilizer and elevator on my 1957 M20. The original SM instructions are for the wood empennage, and mine has the metal conversion kit installed. I am not sure if that changed the the specs and am wondering if anyone has the SB M20-170-1, ( metal empennage kit), to check if there are any differences. The TCDS for my model matches the original SM, elevator +24, -10.5, stabilizer -3.5 + 1.5. Thanks, Butch

Working on an M20K with the old style (pnuematic) speedbrakes. The actuator cable outer covering needs replacing. The PF people said you may be able to cut the inner cable and slide the new sheathing over it without pulling the seat, etc. Has anyone done this and could you please pass along any tips?