Jump to content

Greg Ellis

Supporter
  • Posts

    1,050
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Greg Ellis

  1. 10 minutes ago, 47U said:

    The 1965-1967 IPC shows the pn as 740019.  I’m pretty sure it’s the same part as the ‘63C.  As far as fixing it… LASAR used to have the capability to rework Bowden cables, they made up a new flap retract cable for me 10 or 12 years ago.  Or, you could call your favorite MSC and get a quote for the price for a new one.  I’m sure the factory could make one up, with a few weeks lead time.  I’m sure McFarland could make you a new cable under the Owner Produced Parts program if you wanted to go that route.  Or, search for a used one from the salvage yards.      

    You’ve got quite a bit of threaded rod aft of the lock nuts.  You might effect a (temproary?) repair by splicing the two broken ends together using a threaded ferrule (like the one in the pic below, from McMaster Carr).  That would generate excess wire at the other and require readjustment of the piano wire under the indicator cover housing.  Which, if it’s like mine, has a ring terminal on the end of the piano wire.  You’d have to cut the wire and put on a new ring terminal.  

    image.png.8efe0b51c2e73ac3cd8d9c64836ae3b0.png

    One last observation, (if permitted, I’m not sure whose correct here, the IPC graphic is inconclusive) but you have both jam nuts on one side of the block, whereas I have one jam nut each on either side of the block.  (The block isn’t threaded, is it?)  

    Anyway, let us know how it turns out… good luck!

    image.png.c2281b310068e190abf33b108bad4837.png

    Here’s mine…

    image.png.f99f02cc39956d1db57f6cb257f4442a.png

    Thanks for the response.  There is a jam nut in the other side.  I removed it to get the photo since it broke right at the nut.  I had two on one side and one on the other.  Thanks again.

    • Like 1
  2. 2 minutes ago, PT20J said:

    Later models had a piano wire. It looks like the bracket and the moveable part on the trim screw don't line up and this put a side load on the threaded portion which eventually caused a stress fracture. Since there are threads left on both ends of the broken part, I would try to find a female threaded barrel with the same thread dimensions and use it to reconnect the two ends after bending the bracket slightly to align them. You should probably use a die to clean up the threads before trying to screw on the barrel.

    Thanks for that.  I thought about it as well and found some at McMaster Carr but I am unsure of the thread size.  Any easy way to measure that?  Also, there is not an alignment problem. The stop block has some play in it and can be move slightly side to side to realign the cable pieces.

  3. I have a 63 C model.  As you can see in the photos, the trim indicator cable broke at the threaded part near the stop block (left side of the block).  Anyone have a creative way to fix this?  I called an MSC but I don’t think they understood what happened.  They said just pull out the wire and thread in new wire.  They gave me a Mooney part number but said it was just piano wire.  That does not look like piano wire to me.  Any thoughts?  Thanks.  I looked in the parts catalog and the maintenance manual but could not see this cable in there anywhere.

    IMG_20240712_074616729.jpeg

  4. 47 minutes ago, Sabremech said:

    I was chasing an oil leak on a J model last fall and thought of UV dye until I saw the price. If memory serves me right, the minimum quantity was a gallon and I’d never use that in my life time. I didn’t search for every possible source so maybe it could be found cheaper and in a smaller quantity.

    ultimately, we found it using Magnaflux developer.

    David

    They have lots on Amazon at very small quantities.  This one for instance... Amazon.com: InterDynamics Certified Auto Pro Oil and Fuel System UV Dye Leak Detection for Cars & Trucks & More, 1 Oz, 374CS, Universal : Automotive

    As well as others in small quantities.

  5. @00-Negative On another thread on Mooneyspace, someone mentioned that planexhaust.com (They said PlaneExhaust.net but that does not seem to exist) was able to make them a down pipe in an hour and get it to them the next day.  Maybe they can do something for you and still help you make it to the Bahamas.  Although with July 4th upon us, that may be difficult.

  6. 10 hours ago, Skates97 said:

    Never had that happen, but I do have this tiny nagging fear of picking up a little pebble with my shoes, having it fall in the selector recess, and jam it. I make a habit of running a finger inside the recess before switching tanks just to make sure there's nothing there. Once in about 900 hours I found a tiny pebble, no idea if it would have caused a problem. 

    Just giving all of you one more thing to worry about. :P

    Added to my checklist...."Check Fuel Selector for Rocks":D

    • Like 1
  7. If your concern is with Beryl then go to the National Hurricane Center website.  They have the storm tracking much farther south than Galveston and it will hit more towards Corpus Christi, South Padre and northern Mexico.  You may get some rain and wind but according to the NHC it is not going to hit Galveston.  Although that could change because landfall isn’t predicted until Sunday.

    If your concern is generally for any hurricane that may hit Galveston, head up to DFW.  When the Texas Coast gets a hurricane, we barely get a rise in wind and maybe a drop or two.:D

  8. If any of you guys with a Pre-201 Mooney, have not had a chance to read this Valuation Guide, it is worth the read.  Just full of a ton of information that I was not aware of about my Mooney.  Mr. Garrison really put a lot of effort and time into this and the research effort shows.  It is a great read and worth the time.  I suggest getting one if you can.

  9. If your new airplane is a Mooney, congratulations and let us know what year and model so people on the forum know what you may be looking for. However, if your new airplane is the 182Q Skylane that you have on your avatar then you may want to check out a different forum for parts.

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, Yetti said:

    still sounds like wiring.    Would still check the grounds and such.   All connections should be shiny bright.     Try jumping the solenoid from battery hot to contact.  

     

    in my parts spreadsheet I have this.

    here is some info:  http://mooneyspace.com/topic/3437-spec-sheet-for-cutler-hammer-6041h231/

    and if you can get your mechanic to agree it is a "standard part" (It has no TSO, PMA, or Milspec) and the 6041H105 meets or exceeds the original specs, then the 6041H105 may work.

    Master Relay     eaton "6041h105"

     

    Oh look when I search the Eaton part number I find this.   https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/solenoid_6041H105.php?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgokHVB0I9c-9YozfNvSmlGTZJzP5fLZNCXGUuRe-E-QhAfqTq_vYQoBoClf4QAvD_BwE

    Thank you.  I will check this out next weekend.  That Eaton part, however, looks nothing like what is on the plane right now.  However it is the correct part number according to the IPC.

  11. 55 minutes ago, 47U said:

    It’s the intermittent stuff that drives me nuts.  What does the ‘action’ feel like on the master switch?  Is it… snappy?  Otherwise, Yetti has good advice, check all the terminal connections on the master switch and master solenoid.  Including grounds.  

    Please let us know what you find out.

    The switch itself feels fine.  I will troubleshoot a little more next weekend.  Thanks for the advice from everyone.

  12. 50 minutes ago, Yetti said:

    Master solenoids are constant duty for the mooney usually 200 amp.    They would be a better starter solenoid than an intermittent duty starter ones.   So not part of the problem.   As far as "going out"   Not sure how that is being determined.    solenoids are pretty binary.   So the battery could be getting weak or a ground is failing would be a better bet.  

    as far as a replacement any starter solenoid should do.   The originals were usually a Cutler and Hammer brand.     At one point I found the Master solenoid for my 75 at McMaster Carr, but have not seen it recently.    Oh look there is one on ebay.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/325655658606

    There is no way I would buy the ebay one.

    But you might find the part number and cross reference to DgiKey and or McMaster Carr.

    So, it started when I would turn on the master switch and the solenoid would click on and off multiple times.  I would turn the switch off then immediately back on and all is good.  A flight last Friday revealed no issues and it seemed to work fine.  Yesterday, turned on the master switch and nothing.  No power at all.  No clicking no nothing.  Turned it back off then back on again and it was fine.  Worked like nothing was wrong.  So I thought it was the master solenoid going bad. 

  13. 22 minutes ago, Rwsavory said:

    It should be FAA-PMA unless you find an original part. BTW, I don’t think the Lamar part on your plane is a starter solenoid. It appears to be a master solenoid. If it’s being used for the starter, that might be part of the problem.

    You are correct.  I will edit my post to reflect that.  It is the master solenoid.

  14. Before you respond, I wrote down the wrong thing in the title.  I am looking for the master solenoid, not the starter solenoid.  Sorry about the confusion.  I have a 63 C model with an O-360-A1D.  What is the correct master solenoid?  I have searched Mooneyspace and I am getting conflicting answers.  Mine is giving out and I need a new one.  The one that is on my airplane is a Lamar p/n X61-0028.  Aircraft spruce says this is a non FAA/pma approved part and I can find no logbook entry of when this one was installed.

    I want to make sure I put the right thing back on.  Can I use another of the same p/n or do I need to go with something like this which is FAA pma approved.  Thank you for any advice.

    https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/sts-12s24s.php?clickkey=7013673

  15. 34 minutes ago, Nico1 said:

    I'm thinking of going for the first time during the last 3 days. BUT I don't want to taxi on grass (yeah, diva -- I know... but previous owner had to rebuild nose gear from it and I still had to do some additional repairs bc it wasn't quite right. So my rule is simple: just avoid unnecessary grass - rather be super safe).Does anyone know whether Appleton or Fond du lac are OK in this regard? (like just pushing onto grass to tie down?)

    The last time I was in Fond du Lac, the only grass I had to be on was being parked on it.  I then pulled my airplane onto the taxiway to start up.  However, I was parked on a front row right at the edge of the taxiway.  They usually have planes parked multiple rows deep that may mean a short grass taxi.

    • Like 1
  16. 1 hour ago, Pinecone said:

    FTFY.

    Watching the arrivals last year some people were more than 20 knots off speed.  And no, it was not airspeed versus ground speed, I was comparing ground speeds for airplanes following each other.

    Before you fly into Oshkosh, go out and practice flying the altitude and speed as defined in the NOTAM.  And be able to FLY those numbers.

    Not to mention trying to practice spot landings.  While the controllers at Oshkosh give you a little leeway, they really would like you to land on the dot they tell you to.

  17. 1 hour ago, BDPetersen said:

    I strongly urge the total immersion, camp with the plane experience. Been doing that for 48 years (not every year). So much to take in. I predict  2 things will happen: after 3-4 days you won’t want to leave and return to reality and when you do you will first notice the days just beginning to shorten as summer slides away, you will already be looking forward to next year’s OSH.

    On a useful note, I noted last year that the taxi paths were alarmingly not smooth and my empty Mooney was difficult to keep from porpoising. Hadn’t experienced that before.

    Fisk arrival: keep the railroad tracks between your legs, mind your altitude and, of course, eyes and ears open.

     

    I have noticed that as well.  I think, and they probably won't do it because the cost would be astronomical I am sure, that they need to regrade the grassy areas that planes taxi on and park and then replant grass.  Over the years with rain and taxiing on softer ground and parking on softer ground, I think the ruts have set in and need to be removed.  Maybe they could just use a steam roller or a heavy roller to try to smooth out the ruts.  But I am sure it is not something the EAA or the airport is willing to spend any money on.

    But Oshkosh sure is a heck of a lot of fun and a great experience to be had many times.  I think this will be my 9th or 10th time, not sure.  I used to go into Fond Du Lac and drive over.  That was nice because it is just far enough out to not be too crazy.  I have flown the Fisk arrival a couple of times and that was just nuts unless you go well ahead of opening day.  I now fly in with the Caravan and that has been quite nice.

    There is so much to see that when it is over and you come home, you will look back and find things that you missed and wonder how you missed them.

    And, a lot of folks put a lot of effort into helping you with your aviation life in the form of forums and workshops to learn new things, new skills or reinforce things you already know.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.