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Posts posted by Greg Ellis
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8 hours ago, PT20J said:
Airpower shows them for $165.94 https://www.airpowerinc.com/j11968-14
Says they are on back order at Airpower but a good price compared to others. However, they also say that price will only hold until stock is depleted. I would assume that since they are on backorder, the stock is depleted.
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It looks like you are in Canada so the rules may be a little different but in the US the front windshield has to be either done by an A&P or done by you but signed off by an A&P. The side windows are different and can just be done by the owner.
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On 1/13/2024 at 10:23 PM, MikeOH said:
What chemical did you use to clean off the old sealant?
When I did mine myself I used denatured alcohol and it worked great. I cannot answer anything else about the install because the windows on a 63 C model like mine are installed completely different than the F model in question.
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On 1/8/2024 at 5:46 PM, hammdo said:
WELL, the intrigue continues!
The cylinder shop (Sal's in Prosper) told us he knew I was using Camguard --
Sal's is who did my last cylinder. They are good folks. I have visited their shop. No sign, no name to be seen but you know you are in the right place because of the mountain of used and non-serviceable cylinders out in the front yard. It is a mountain of them. But they have a really cool place with some classic equipment and a very nice classic Corvette (from the 50's) that I believe Sal has been the only owner of the car.
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The Owner's Manual for my 1963 C model (more like a pamphlet, really) does say to Apply brakes to stop wheel rotation prior to retracting the gear. I have never consciously done this.
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On 1/7/2024 at 6:03 PM, ArtVandelay said:
On the J you just need to undo the quick release of the left cowl flap to get access to the quick drain.One thing I envy about you guys with newer models, the ease of removing cowls. In my 63 C model, there are roughly 75 to 80 screws to remove to get both cheeks off.
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I have a 63 C model with the original windshield, etc. My center stack could fit a GNC355, GNS530W and a GFC500. I could not fit the transponder (GTX345) or audio panel (GMA345) in there. They are on the right side of the center stack. So you should be okay I would think with the GFC500, GMA245 and GNS430. That should not be an issue at all. The issue may come when you upgrade to the GTN650, GNC255 and GTX345 all while trying to keep the GFC500 in the center.
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10 minutes ago, 47U said:
I replaced my engine Lord mounts a few years ago. The battery ground to the engine and ships ground from the engine to the copilot’s footwell were termintated using the Lord mount bolts. I guess it works, but seems hinky to me. I moved both grounds to holes cast in the engine case. I replaced the braided ground from the engine to the footwell. It got tore up removing the bolt. I hope none or yours look like this.
That could have just been cleaned up with some simple green and put back into service, no?....
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I am just putting this in the general section so maybe it can help anyone that is experiencing the issue that I was. I have a 63 C model with an O-360-A1D. After a long hiatus of flying, waiting on a cylinder (since August), I was able to get the airplane back in the air. However, when I tried to start it for the first time since August, it was tough to start. The prop would barely make it over the first compression stroke and I would have to release the key and try again. While trying to start, the voltage on the EDM 900 would drop to 8 volts. If it made it over the compression stroke then it fired right up but getting over that was tough. My first thought was a weak battery. It had been kept on a battery minder the whole time but maybe the battery was bad. I also thought it could be the starter as well.
So, I followed a recent thread about someone else having starter issues (the one that was smoking) and downloaded the Sky-Tec troubleshooting guide and followed it through. I did every step in the guide and everything checked out fine. The battery was solid. After 48 hours resting (not on the charger) the voltage of the battery was still 12.9 which according to battery minder is a good battery. All voltages across the battery, the solenoids and the starter itself were all within what Sky-Tec would call normal.
The starter to ground resistance was .1 ohms which according to Sky-tec is fine. The battery to ground however was almost 1 ohm which according to Sky-Tec, anything greater than .2 ohms needs to be looked at. So, I removed the negative battery cable which is grounded to a stud on the engine. I cleaned all the washers, cleaned the battery cable ends themselves and cleaned the area on the engine where the ground connects. I reconnected everything. Rechecked the resistance and it was .2 ohms.
The engine fired right up with no resistance on the compression stroke and no drain on the battery upon starting. I was amazed that a single ground issue could cause this kind of a problem. Mind you, I know very little about electrical stuff.
The trouble shooting guide saved me a lot of money on a new starter, new battery, and just throwing things at the problem etc... It did take a while to do all of this. To access the ground from the negative battery terminal, in order to get a wrench on the nut, I had to remove the intake tube on the #4 cylinder. But it saved me a lot of money, so I am happy, and it is nice to be flying again after 4 months.
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1 minute ago, LANCECASPER said:
As long as you are buying one more G5 and one GI-275, why not sell the one G5 you have and buy a 2nd GI-275. You're retaining your steam gauges for backup anyway. You could keep the VSI below the altimeter. The GI-275s are TSO'd and will get more attention in future upgrades than the G5 that came from Team X (experimental) and was certified to less stringent standards.
Or put a GI-275 EIS there for engine management and get rid of everything in the right side of your panel.
The possibilities never end . . . by the time you do all that you aren't too far from going all in and putting a G3X on the left, then get rid of your steam (and vacuum pump) and keep the G5 for needed backup.
Or you could . . . . . . . . it never ends . . lol
In the photo of his panel, he has 2 G5's. One in the center as his Attitude Indicator and another which is just left of the radio stack.
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20 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:
And, it's educational -- it teaches you how to swear.
And when working on a Mooney, it teaches you proper wound care….
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On 12/2/2023 at 6:05 PM, hammdo said:
I’d like to fine one here in DFW!
-Don
I am not sure if they offer classes for free to anyone over 60 but one of the best A&P schools around is at Tarrant County College. They hold the actual classes out at Alliance Airport. The day course is 2 years and the night course is 3 years. They also have add on courses to specialize in avionics or composites, etc... I was enrolled and started but I could not make it work. My office is in Southwest Fort Worth. The evening classes started around 4 pm. They have a very strict no absence, no tardiness policy and there was no way I could guarantee making it to class on time every day coming from work at that time with traffic so I was not able to do it. But it is an excellent program. Tons of different aircraft and engines, etc... that you do hands on work on.
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23 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:
Fine! How about I tell you that I use one of these as my oil filter cutter? I just drilled a hole in the center to make it accept male aircraft filter cans than the female auto filter cans! The height of the blades miraculously matches where the thick metal stub ends in the 48110-1, making a clear cut.
instead of https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/fc2000oilCutter.php?clickkey=4975
You just vaulted back to numero uno!!!
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1 minute ago, FlyingDude said:
I use this: https://www.harborfreight.com/color-snap-blade-utility-knife-60828.html
Do I win the CBoC (cheap bastard of the century) award?
You are in a tie with @EricJ who posted one earlier in this thread.
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AircraftSpruce.com sells one of these. I have not used it because it is damn pricey for a glorified box cutter with an attachment to it but they are available.
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I have a 63 C model with an O-360-A1D. What is the lubricant of choice for the slip joint between the exhaust down tube and the rest of the exhaust? I have heard people use mouse milk but McFarlane makes their DAM exhaust lube as well. Is there a preferred lube for this? Thank you.
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23 minutes ago, Mooney-Shiner said:
So the shop eventually determined that the cylinder was unairworthy (despite initial positive assessment)? What are you going to do with it? Re-plate with nickel or chrome and reinstall? Or replace with new?
Thank you for keeping us updated
I am replacing it with a new cylinder.
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@Centeno You may try here.
200HP INTAKE DUCT M20 E&F - 600115-005 — LASAR
They say they have it but it may not be in stock but they may be able to help you get one.
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You can buy seat belt extenders on Amazon and other sites. It just depends on the type of attachments you have. There are different types. I have one from a company that was called Free The Flyer but they are apparently no longer in business. I couldn't find them online.
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11 hours ago, PT20J said:
Clearly the rings weren't sealing well but it may not be the ring's fault (at least before they lost their temper); it's probably that the barrel is just worn out and maybe out of round. The rings are at the top of the cylinder when you do the compression test, but most of the oil loss would be as the piston travels up and down the barrel. Also, an oily cylinder will often have great compression because the oil seals the ring barrel interface during the test. It's just another reason why compression tests are not a definitive indication of overall cylinder health.
When I took the cylinder back, the shop did a quick measurement and as I said earlier, the bore was at its maximum limit. They called me later after actually doing close inspection and the bore was also out of round.
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11 hours ago, Bolter said:
How did you establish which cylinder was consuming all the oil? Or the reverse question, how do you know all the other cylinders are not part of the problem? Did I miss that there was one cylinder with low compression or other outstanding measurement?
-dan
What was missed is the fact that the number one cylinder was pooled with oil and both upper and lower spark plugs were wet. I showed photos earlier.
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13 minutes ago, Fly Boomer said:
Does that mean the ring has been overheated?
That’s what I would have suspected but he didn’t say. I should have asked but I was just kind of happy to possibly find a solutIon. I’ll ask. Though my EDM 900 never showed any issues of overheating or any other problems.
Garmin 430 repair rumors - Finally finished??
in Avionics/Panel Discussion
Posted
Do the Avidyne 540/440's play nice with the Garmin G5's and the Garmin GFC 500 autopilot?