DC_Brasil

I must have missed that detail about the file format. Thanks! Will try that and come back with a feedback.

Hello everyone. Here in Brazil, in some more congested airspaces, we have some VFR corridors with many visual reference points, many of which are compulsory reporting points in an advisory frequency or with ATC. I have made those fixes as user waypoints with Garmin Pilot and wanted to import them to the G3X. I followed the guidance of Garmin Pilot: at the user waypoint page, I clicked on export and saved the CSV file it created into the G3X database SD card. However, when I put it in the G3X, and go to the user waypoint page, click MENU, it shows all options EXCEPT "Import". Import appears as a "faded" inactive option. Any tips?

When I had to choose my backup attitude indicator I had the choice of G5 versus GI275, and chose the G5. I had the opportunity to fly briefly with aGI275 equipped C172 and found that, although very capable, the 275 seems to be very small for the amount of information it can display. It felt crowded and polluted (for an ADI). I think the VOR/CDI/MFD GI275 is good and never seen the engine version in person. My thoughts were: I will have to rely on that thing if my G3X fail, so let's make sure I have a clear easy picture of attitude with less clutter in front of me. But that thought is for a BACKUP instrument. If you're choosing it for primary, then other considerations apply: which AP, navigator and other equipment you'll have installed. The GI275 is way more compatible with other things: for example it has a version that can drive analog attitude driven autopilots like the KAP 150.

I recently had a problem with my battery while away from home. It showed charge but wouldn't start the engine. The FBO had a GPU and I followed normal start procedure as if I did not had the groud power. My M20J also doesn't say anything else in the POH about using external power. When I replaced my battery, the technician told me to use the GPU whenever available/practical for starting the engine. He said it greatly increases battery life as the big startup current is what stresses the battery the most. I don't know if that's true or not, however, since the place I hangar my plane has a GPU available, I have been using it whenever it's possible (e.g. other planes aren't using it).

I have no idea. It came that way from the shop.

On that day I was flying quite light. Only me (200lbs) a light backpack and the fuel. I think it was the lowest FF I've seen so far. Usually my engine runs smooth around 8.2 gph.

Hello everyone. I'm thinking of purchasing the Alpha Systems Eagle AOA indicator. For those of you that have it: 1 - Do you like it? I'm reading very positive things about flying the doughnut on final approach (top gun feelings?? Ha ha ) 2 - Did you calibrate the stall AOA with or without flaps extended? 3 - Did you install the flap module? Thanks

I also do the Big Mixture Pull until I feel loss of power and enrich slightly so engine runs smoothly. This is what I got last flight. Mooney M20J with IO-360-A3B6D.

@ArtVandelay Did you also replace the ignition key-switch for any other system (toggles or rockers)?

Thanks @Pinecone for the info. Do you have a Part Number for those locking toggles?

Hello. I have seen some installations with some more modern and better looking rocker switches. Some of my switches are old and the locking in either position is not very strong anymore. So I began thinking of changing some of them. I'm thinking of changing some to a new style like we see in some RV10s. I know those are experimental. So question is: do any of you have a suggestion of brands that have PMA replacement switches I could replace my original PN #930023 switches? A second thing would be to change the ignition key for 2 independent switches for each magneto and a starter pushbutton. The magneto switches I'm thinking of one of those toggle switches that lock in place (you have to lift and then move). Has anyone made this kind of installation? I'm guessing it would be a minor alteration and no STC might be required, right? Thoughts?

I thinking I may withhold this information from my wife ahahahahah Definitely thinking of going to Sun n Fun.

I have recently removed an R-1-4-G30R270 Electronics International Tachometer from my 28V M20J.

The question is actually what kind of avionics discounts, for example, or deals people are used to seeing at these events. In many industries, manufacturers use these kinds of shows to aggressively sell their products, offering discounts, bundles, conditions that you usually don't see elsewhere. I know mooney specific parts are hard to find, but some companies sell products for.all kinds of planes, like Whelen, Gami, Garmin, etc...

Hello everyone. I live in Brazil and that basically means that for every part that I search for my M20J, It involves importing it from the US. Consequently, there are taxes, currency exchange costs and retailers markups involved, making things more expensive here. I am looking at possibly going to Sun n' Fun this year in April and one of the mai reasons would be to possibly find some parts or upgrades. LED lights, GAMI injectors, a new GPS... In most industries, the big expos and fairs are usually where manufacturers give customers special conditions for purchases. For those of you that have previously attended the show (or Oshkosh), do we usually see good deals from manufacturers or shops during the show? Were you able to find avionics our parts at a discounted price during the event? Fly safe everyone!

Thanks for the answers. Just curious about the removal of the Ram Air: is it considered a minor our major alteration from a maintenance point of view?

I just had my panel upgraded to a G3X (with EIS) + G5 + GFC500 (4 servos) + GMA245R audio box (I have posted some pictures on a different topic). Budget constrained me to keep my ancient GNS430 (non-W), KX155 nav/comm2 and old transponder (no ADSB mandate in Brazil yet). I am a PP IFR-rated and had most of my flying done on piper analog planes (archers and arrows). However, my IFR was all on a C172 G1000. So the GNS430 was very familiar albeit way less capable than the G1000. Some takeaways: G3X is incredibly capable and easy to operate. If you use Garmin Pilot on the iPad, the buttonolgy is seamless. Digital EIS is a must! Being it a G3X or any other brand (JPI, for example), the ability to carefully monitor and add advisories to the engine instruments brings a whole new level of operational awareness and a higher sense of care for your engine. Also, the ability to download the data (or reviewing it in Garmin Pilot) is incredibly valuable. Those who say you don't need YD have not flown with one on a turbulent warm day with the wife complaining that she's getting sick . I was one of those guys... I am SO glad I added YD. But this is personal: I wouldn't have traded my YD for a new NAV/COMM. GFC500 is amazing. Very stable and comfortable ride even in very choppy air. Makes you kinda feel like a Boeing pilot (configure the FD as dual-cue and you can almost smell the jet fuel). G3X will not talk with old NAV/Comm, so I had to keep an old analog CDI for NAV2. Even though my GNS430 doesn't have VNAV, the G3X has a very basic Vertical Navigation calculation function and it will work with any waypoint prior to the FAF. The GFC500 will even follow the vertical profile. But it is on a waypoint-by-waypoint basis. So the "Cross 10nm before XYZ at 5000 feet" instructions is a breeze.

Hello guys! My M20J has the RAM AIR intake. Last flight, cruising at 10,000 feet I could see a 0.2'' MP increase with the Ram Air open. I believe I could only see that because of the digital G3X engine gauges. If it were an analog dial, I doubt I could have seen any difference. Since the manual doesn't have any data, I wonder if anyone here can share their experiences with the Ram Air.

I'd suggest you start by reading these (rather long) series of articles: Where Should I Run My Engine? They are rreally insightful and will change the mindset most CFIs still teach about engine management. https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-63where-should-i-run-my-engine-part-1/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-64where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-2-the-climb/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-65where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-3-cruise/ https://www.avweb.com/features/avweb-classics/pelicans-perch/pelicans-perch-66where-should-i-run-my-enginepart-4-descent/

Let me tell you my POV. I have been passionate about aviation since I was a little kid (I am 41 now). I got my PPL almost 10 years ago and basically flew the flight school planes or a rented the local club Arrow here and there. Finally I've reached a point where I could indulge my dream and started looking. Found a beautiful 1990 M20J that had the original panel. I knew what I wanted: I wanted to fly, take my family for a few expensive burgers, but wanted the most gizmos my wallet could afford. I know I'd not be compensated for the installed technology if I ever decide to sell, but I am not buying my Mooney with that intent. I want to Fly. I want to shoot IFR approaches. I want to be safe. I want to be current, modern and fun. So I spent the most I could afford (and the most that would not lead my wife to commit murder ahahahhah) and put a G3X, G5, GFC500 and a GMA245R (the GSB15 was complimentary by the shop). The plane is used and has its squawks, old GPS and NAV/COMM, very beat out interior... But last week, flying to the coast with my wife, I can definitely tell you: I am living my dream.

Can anyone share pictures of the outer and inner fuel sender installations, wiring and grounding? My R fuel sender is intermittent and I want to take a look

I did that yesterday. Specially because the Concorde website listed certain serial numbers as appropriate for the RG24-15 and/or RG24-11. FWIW, I have email Frank at Mooney some times and he has always been very fast and helpful in his responses. He sent me the information regarding that "Concorde battery retrofit". It refers to the suitability for all 24-3000+ serial numbered M20Js to use the RG24-11/15 batteries plus the need for a 1.5lbs adjustment in weight and balance if using the -15 battery, which is heavier. I ended up ordering a RG24-11M, which was more readily available and had faster shipping. It should arrive next week and I'll get a tech to help me check all grounding and make sure everything will work. The battery technician really thinks there is a high likelihood my grounding should be ok. From what he could see in the battery tests they ran, there was an internal short and it would explain the huge negative current. If the short in the battery is intermittent, the ammeter could show large swings as the current draw spikes when the short is present, just like I experienced in flight. For example, I saw currents fluctuating from +2 to -290 amps. Also, the battery overheated when they ran a charging test. If one or more battery cells are shorted, they will convert charging current to heat (that's what I was told). However, next week, when the new battery arrives, I'll run some tests. Thanks for the inputs to everyone. This forum is a life (and pocket) saver.

I'll make sure to review all of that. I just saw at the Concorde website that specific model is 12V. My plane is 24V. Now I am looking at the Concorde website that the two 24V batteries (RG24-15 and RG24-11M) are not suitable for my plane's Serial #. I have emailed Mooney and see what comes back.

Hello everyone. I had a technician test the battery and it was in very bad shape. So I guess I found the source of the problems. My battery was a Gill G-243. Can anyone help me find a list of suitable replacements? The tech advised me to get a sealed battery. However, I really don't have any knowledge about the battery and electrical systems.

I actually don't recall... will have to check that.