jeremyc209

Those first few dozen Mooney hours as a low time pilot are no joke.

I have the opposite problem, but with an old tach. How accurate are these? Annual is coming up in a couple months and I intended on getting this checked out. This is my tach from take off roll to cruise alt.

The shake/lock washers were for mounting the starter, I got that squared away and the starter is mounted. B&C has a prefabricated link for the alternator which I prefer (part #403-304), or I can have mine modified (less desirable), or I can have one fabricated from scratch (seems silly). If my IA can sign off on the prefabricated version that's ideal.

I got the starter fitted today but forgot to order some 5/16 lock washers so just a dry fit at the moment. The alternator -> starter strap from the Plane Power alternator bracket is too long. The B&C manual suggests fabricating a new one (they include the drawings in the manual) or modifying the existing. It looks like I could drill a new hole for the alternator bracket and grind off the excess as long as my IA will sign off on it?

Here are the drawings for reference. GAD29 with and without transformers, and the GDC31 B-12 to Garmin G5 Rev A.pdf B-12 to GDC31 Roll Steering Converter [GPSS].pdf B-12 to Garmin G5 No Transformers.pdf

Accutrak + GPS alone can't do GPSS from everything I've read and it doesn't work that way on my GNX375. It can track after getting on course then turning on Accutrak, but can't intercept etc. It's my understanding you need the Accuflite + roll steering converter + GPS. Brittain has the aforementioned preliminary drawings for connecting the G5 + GAD29 to the Accuflite for GPSS as well.

This happened to me a couple times early on after buying my C last year, but I couldn't get #4 to come back even after a high RPM lean runup. The solution was easy: it was a fouled plug, ended up being the lower plug on #4. Pulled the plug, cleaned it up, reinstalled and all was good. If you clean the plugs be sure to get down deep, I had some lead BB's down there that I didn't see the first time I pulled it. Pretty sure my ground ops were too rich. Now I lean out on the ground to the point of almost killing the engine. No problems since I started doing this.

What do you mean by "set for 122 teeth"? The ring gear on mine is 122 teeth and the shape of the teeth match what they show for 122, so I ordered the BC315-100-1 for 12v/122. I went back to doublecheck (I only counted "half" the first time) because I'd heard everywhere that most were 149, but it's definitely 122. I believe mine (O-360-A1D) is a parallel valve as well.

This seems like the best option. I have large crimpers for putting together battery cables for solar backups. The 2awg M22759/16 is $18/ft on Spruce but that's a lot better than $320/ft for the 3" extension.

"Extend" or replace the whole thing? I'm not sure if mine has any slack in it. I see whole copper cable kits for $300+ but my ground already looks basically new, and the others are in great shape so it seems wasteful to order a whole kit. edit: Oh I see the extensions now, $80+ for 3"!

Yeah I've seen in a few threads where IO-360s have trouble, but no particular issues reported for C's as far as I can tell. @DXB it looks like you have a C with a B&C starter? Any fitment issues?

Hi all, I just ordered a B&C starter + PMA'd starter relay (Skytec) for my '65 C. I have a mechanic coming to install it when it arrives, however, I'm wondering if there's anything to watch out for on installation or additional materials needed? Not a lot of solid info on the B&C installation in particular. Some posts say baffling needs modifying, and I think fuel injected models have fit issues but my C should fit ok. I have a Plane Power alternator and all of my cabling looks good. The mechanic is coming to my hangar and I want to make sure we can get it done in one shot without needing to order up anything extra. There's a Delco-Remy in there now, 122 tooth ring gear. The bendix occasionally had trouble popping out but recently the starter has been very sluggish, and now it simply won't crank sometimes until I move the prop to a different position with the bendix engaged, presumably there are some sort of internal dead spots in the starter. It almost left me stranded the other day, I manually pried the bendix out to the ring gear in order to turn the starter a bit and set the prop just after the compression stroke, finally got it started up and got home. After shutting down at my hangar, I gave it a minute and tried starting again. The starter engaged but it couldn't spin the prop. I ran through the tests in the Skytec troubleshooting guide and while my battery was a little tired, it was clear the starter was having bigger issues.

I'll eventually upgrade but so far my all in cost on the Accutrak (came with the plane inop) + Accuflite is about $600. That includes repairing the PC system. @McMooney I know setting the GPS to .3nm scaling is needed, did you do any other work to your Accutrak? Did you have the GPSS converter or just GPS/CDI and the Accutrak?

I just had a GNX375 installed and connected to the Accutrak. I'm in the California fog we've had for weeks and haven't had a chance to test it longer than just flipping on track for a couple minutes and it seems to work. I suspect I need to adjust the Accutrak using the factory installation/maintenance instructions once the weather improves. The gain seems too high, and I doubt my Accutrak had been used in a long time as the previous old VFR GPS was removed many years ago and the PC was inop when I bought the plane. So it's probably a good idea to give it a reset. Once that is working I will have the Accuflite installed. I'm considering a GDC31 roll steering converter for that as it seems like all the paperwork would be straightforward and they are readily available on eBay.

This was pulled off my plane for a GNX 375 install. It's in perfect condition, aside from a month or so the plane has been hangared since installed. Most I see on eBay are weathered looking/faded. $1600 shipped

Do they normally remove the prop? I didn't see anything in the log entry about that, just removal of the spinner. I'll check with the shop.

I post this another forum but thought it would get more exposure here. Just got my prop balanced and oil changed when my plane was in for avionics next door. Started at 0.20 IPS @ 2400rpm Ended at 0.01 I'll upload the sheet if anyone wants to see it. Added 9ish grams in one place. Question: Oddly enough, after my first flight my prop stopped in different position, 2 and 8 o'clock. After my test run up a couple weeks ago (the fog has been killer here) it stopped at the normal 10 and 4 position. I don't remember it ever stopping like that before but I've only owned it since February. I always push it backwards the same way so I would have noticed the prop stopping in a different position before. Do your props always stop in the same spot without fail or is the occasional odd stop normal?

Calaveras Airplane at KCPU just did mine. $600 flat rate Started at 0.20 IPS @ 2400rpm Ended at 0.01 I'll upload the sheet if anyone wants to see it. Added 9ish grams in one place. Oddly enough, after my first flight my prop stopped in different position, 2 and 8 o'clock. After my test run up a couple weeks ago it stopped at the normal 10 and 4 position. I don't remember it ever stopping like that before but I've only owned it since February Do your props always stop in the same spot without fail?

There's a couple copies here, plus others https://annas-archive.org/search?q=mountain+flying

Just FYI, this is an Accutrak (not the II), the Accutrak II has rocker switches and a backlit panel (I think)

Yeah I thought it might be a simple on/off switch but wouldn't mind the correct panel. The DG adapter is the BI-818 and looks like this.

I finally found a DG adapter and now just need the panel switch and any associated wiring if possible (I haven't checked out the plugs on the DG adapter yet and don't know if they are standard) Pic from another thread, the panel on the left is what I'm looking for.

Oh, I mean that if the aft plate is flat horizontal (roughly), the front plate is tilted up at an angle, vs two mounting plates on the same "plane" as if they were sitting on a flat table. Here's a terrible illustration. I assume the pole just gets snugged in the mounts and it's good to go? Too tight and it'll yank on the plates trying to straighten them out.

Yep that's correct, I'll upgrade the wingtip strobes at some point but just needed the rear position. Ordered, thanks!

What models are suitable for the rear light on a 65 C? I have a tailbeacon coming out and need to replace it.