Grant_Waite

You could probably make something similar to this, that Peter Schiff aero sells. It’s a bit more complicated but a dumbed down version or something similar is probably possible. I believe the overhead duct has the build in booster fans that you were mentioning. They say it puts out 240cfm so probably uses some sort of a bilge blower or whatever it’s called. Not sure how they attach it to the ceiling. It looks like they designed it for Beechcraft. Unless that picture is a one off custom duct they made. Glad my idea of ribs helped. Yeah, the battery is an essential. I got the one that attaches to the bottom of the wave. I think that it takes up no room. Just adds a bit of height. Definitely makes it too heavy to put in the plane with it attached. I can move the unit around with both attached just not at that weird angle to get it in. I’m too the point though where I don’t take the unit out of the plane anymore. I did the first few times to charge it but now I just charge it while I clean the plane. It finally drained the smaller bit of water into my container yesterday. Good to know it works.

I will gladly buy 2 from you. I’m not impressed with the one from Etsy. I am however impressed will your ability to model and 3d print anything you can dream of. The locking mechanism isn’t tight so it bleeds some exhaust air. The locking mechanism on the hose EcoFlow provides is insanely tight. Or at least on mine it is. I have a hard time getting them off. I can’t tell from the picture but if you could add some sort of ribs for the flex foil hose to slide over, that would be awesome. The Etsy one has nothing so it won’t stay on unless you have a hose clamp. I would love suggestions on how I might go about holding up the cold air hose so it’s suspended a bit. As you can see right now it’s just laying over the head rest. It slides off whenever I move my seat forward. When I first get in. I was thinking of something along the lines of the straps they use in house ducting to suspend them. Not sure how I’d attach something to the plastic headliner. Velcro maybe? Oh here’s some better pictures after today’s flight.

I don’t think they would add anything to the unit. Then you have to figure out a way to power the fans. It blows enough air that it feels quite cold. I’ve seen these and would love to have one in my plane but don’t even know what all I’d need to power it but probably a bigger alternator as well. They are certified. It looks like the same ones they have in most commercial airliners to power your electronics. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/mci10-06624.php

Yes, it does have a pump for condensation. I’ve since cut a small length of 1/2 in tubing and run it into a hole I drilled in a small tuber ware container. I didn’t like how long the hose that came with it was, it never slid over the piece that comes out of back of the unit for drainage quite right. I also found the pump would stay running because the hose was too long. The water would sit in the bends and never be able to get out because the pump wasn’t strong enough to overcome gravity and the little water. This wasn’t an issue at all when I tested it at home. I had it sitting on top of the box it came in and the drainage hose running down into a bucket. The gravity and humid air made it easy for the unit to expel the water. There was however a shit ton of water still left in the unit when I removed it a day later, so be ware of that if you use this unit as intended like for camping or something else. Mind you, the unit ran straight for 24hrs without an issue so the water build up makes sense. Non of these drainage things are in issue in the plane. It just doesn’t create literally any water for the unit to expel any. Since it’s also dehumidifying the air and it’s basically on recirculate mode like a car, it makes sense. I do open the vents up when I turn it on so it can sort of get fresh air. Not sure if does anything or not. I drilled the hole as high up on my baggage wall as I could get it. I can feel the hot air coming out of the tail with the louvred inspection plates I made. I used this from Home Depot as the exhaust hose hook up. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Dryer-Vent-Duct-to-Wall-Connector-EZCNHD/203626503 It’s the same one @Lancecasper used. He was a big help in answering all my questions I had and what he found worked best. I used a 4in flex foil duct from Home Depot to screw into that dryer vent adapter. I cut it to the shortest possible length once everything was set up. You will need that adapter from Etsy and a 4inch hose clamp since it doesn’t fit tightly on the adapter just loosely. Without the adapter, you can’t connect any hose other than Eco flows to the unit. They have a locking mechanism which allows the hoses to be attached securely. I would compare the air flow to feel just like your household air conditioning vents. That’s if you were inch’s away from them. The unit doesn’t blow as hard as a car does, but it does blow more than enough considering the long run of 5in hose. I would like some sort of adapter to split the airflow between me and the co pilot seat. I fly alone mainly but it would be nice to have. That’s something for you to figure out with your 3d printing skills. The easing hose does get warm but I don’t think insulating the hose would help all that much. I made my hose as short as I could for that sole purpose. One think I don’t like is there isn’t a complete seal of the exhaust adapter that comes with the unit. So a bit of warm arm doesn’t go into the hose just out from the one side of the adapter. It’s almost like it could use a little rubber door sill to keep it tight. It’s so minute that it doesn’t matter. My ice chest ac couldn’t even compete so I’m very happy with the results. I bought some of the Gila tint and put it in my front passenger window. I don’t like the bluish hue and distortion it gives off. I would like to get a set of https://wingviewtint.com/products/mooney-plane-tint-kits?_pos=1&_sid=82e5ba593&_ss=r They are half the price of jet shades but still a lot for tint. It’ll be well worth it though. I like the idea of them being easily removable and not being stuck like the static cling. I need to email them because I want both the back and front windows in the dark shade. They only offer the mid shade for the fronts. I agree it does help a ton with just simple tint. I also have the plane covered with one of Bruce’s covers even under the shade hangar. Your windows and interior will look years better than any other plane that isn’t. There’s a 2011 182 right in front of me and he doesn’t have anything on his plane…

I talked with them at Sun and fun to see their unit. It works great but I just don’t have the funds for it at this time. They are the only company to my knowledge that still makes and actually installs a fully portable A/C in any plane. It’s not too pricey of a unit but they recommend a 100 amp alternator, which adds to the cost. On my plane, I couldn’t even get a 100amp alternator so I’m screwed out of it even if I had the money to do it. That’s fine though, this isn’t my forever plane.

The unit has been working great, it keeps me cool with the cold air duct just laying over the headrest of my seat. I don’t know how much it actually cools the whole cabin but that wasn’t my intention with such a small unit. It easily gets a 20° differential and even greater depending on how hot the air is. It gets the air to 70° or less within a minute or 2. I love it! It doesn’t create any water, since I’m not intaking the outside air directly. When I got the unit I set it up at home with the exhaust hose out a window and the one rear intake out the same window. It created a good amount of water when I did that, but rightly so since I’m in Florida. The app is great because I can turn it on or off with my phone at anytime in flight. It works off of Bluetooth. I will take more pictures when I fly this week. I’ve since gotten a 3d printed adapter from Etsy to allow for the exhaust hose to use a normal 4in flex foil duct with the locking mechanism still in use. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1733979321/ecoflow-wave-2-5-to-100mm-adapter?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_b-electronics_and_accessories-car_parts_and_accessories-car_accessories&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjwu8uyBhC6ARIsAKwBGpSwdCzJ8O9c9ThbbGeLXrIqxx-8pxFRnpIBK5ZXWjvWmY4FNidVxFoaAouxEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_1843970782_69216062865_346398034798_aud-2007167693509:pla-354955384985_m__1733979321_12768591&utm_custom2=1843970782&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRJLm2i5MdsW9LhdN5wD4ILfk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu8uyBhC6ARIsAKwBGpSwdCzJ8O9c9ThbbGeLXrIqxx-8pxFRnpIBK5ZXWjvWmY4FNidVxFoaAouxEALw_wcB I’m sure BCG could make the same thing and not cost the 60 bucks I paid. The battery works great last me more than enough time I need. I’ve yet to run it out. When I get back I just plug it into the A/C power while I clean off the plane and tie it down. My plane sits in a shade hangar so it’s not outside in direct sunlight but it’s not inside either. After getting fuel the other day at 4pm it was probably a feel like of 110 on the ramp and 98 outside. The A/C did struggle to feel cold even though it was putting out 74° air. That’s just a limitation though of the small size and the fact the plane sat in the sun for a good 20 minutes. It was absolutely better than nothing and I can’t express how nice not having to use ice is. It’s basically unlimited cold air and all that I need to do when I’m done flying is charge the battery. It’s easiest to put the battery in the plane then set the unit in since 50lbs is just too heavy for the awkward baggage door.

See attached all 3 of my oil samples since ownership of the plane. Numbers were elevated in the first and down in the second, then up again in the third. Plane has just over 400 hours smoh that was done in 2019. In 2010 the engine was sent to lycoming because it had a burned intake valve on #3 and camshaft lobe spalling. They replaced the camshaft, tappets, cylinders with P/N: 05K21120, rings, bearings, hardware, and all perishable items. I did an initial borescope using the Savvy recommended pictures, after the first analysis. Everything looked normal, there was the slightest bit of pitting in the cylinders from sitting in Florida but not to worry about. I fly the plane a lot so it doesn’t sit more than a week. I try to change the oil every 35 hours. The most recent sample has iron up which with the other 2 metals could be a sign of exhaust valve wear. I’d like anyone’s insight if this is normal numbers for the engine or is this early signs of possible exhaust valve wear. Oil analysis 1:11:24.pdfOil analysis 3:3:24.pdfOil analysis 4:18:24.pdf

Thank you, all for the replies I think I’m going to go with what works okay and that’s a 1 hose exhaust. The nice thing about a plane is I can climb to cooler and less humid air. Unlike a car or house can obviously. Which I feel negates most of the fear about eventually pulling in more hot and humid air. Now if I sit on the ground for a while, which I typically don’t for more than 15minutes from startup to takeoff then I could see it being an efficiency loss. But since it’s not just that easy to make 2 functional intake and exhaust in a plane it’s an inefficiency we deal with. If I had the bones of a plane and money I would so pay to have a factory A/C installed… one day maybe. The weight penalty is worth it for having A/C like in a car. I will keep everyone posted when I have the unit and can do some testing on it. Here’s a better picture of my avionics in the back. There’s not much back there I think I need to worry about, getting hot.

Ideally I would like to get my hot air vent as close to this inspection plate as I could. I’m not sure if it would help all that much but who knows. I need to test the unit out in both configurations to see how well it works. I’m leaning towards a one hose setup. Any less holes in the bulkhead, the better

Even if the exhaust and intake are right next to one another. Here’s a picture of how it’s set up in a car, van, or house.

Yes it is

Mine is a 1977 J with S/N 24-0213. So if I’m understanding that correctly it just needed part B done. Mine still has the original insulation and it looks awful here’s a picture of it

The plane does have a sealed Concorde battery so it no longer needs the one tube for the battery. I could run the hose all the back there and where that tube is now. I built a Frankencooler blowbox, which was detached from the cooler. I just set it on the back seat, on a towel and have my cooler with ice in the baggage compartment. Unfortunately the plane still has all the old rat nesting, looking insulation. I did feel under the carpet of the baggage area and it felt humid or like it had been holding moisture in the insulation. There wasn’t any water or anything visible on my hand. I know early 210’s had issue with the factory insulation holding moisture, causing corrosion of the main wing spar. At least some 210’s can be repaired and still worth it to do so. Albeit a 60k wing spar and labor if you can get one. For the older Mooney fleet, they just aren’t worth much to begin with, so replacing both wings for the spar doesn’t make much sense. Not to mention the disastrous state of parts for the older planes. I love the Mooney but Mooney themselves are letting all owners down. I’d like to replace it all but that’s not something I have the funds or down time for.

It does have a condensation hose, the unit has the option to run it drain free or with the drain hose attached. In drain free mode, the water collects in a pan and will either evaporate from the internal heat of the coils or build up and the unit will shut off. Surprisingly these units don’t make much condensation like a household ac or car ac does. Probably from the less btu and cooling output. Even when I had my ice air conditioner. It didn’t make much condensation to worry about.

The unit I bought, comes with the self contained battery. I’m not going to hardwire the unit into the ship. I believe it draws something like 300watts on the battery and more like 400 plus plugged into an A/C outlet. The battery can run the unit for 2hrs about at max setting or up to 8 on eco but I doubt that ladder number. Once again the goal isn’t the cool the cabin like we do in our cars but to cool me directly. People get highly disappointed when these portable units can’t cool a room or van. But that’s not the intent. Even if that’s how they advertise them and get people to buy them. It can cool down a tent and that’s about it. And the Mooney cabin isn’t a whole lot bigger than most tents. The one experience I had when I was doing my multi, was quite pleasant. The tecnam is like a solar panel, with its front sloped window and no sun visors. Not to mention the prop wash being out of the way of the side vent in the cabin door. Whenever you had the large 6in hose pointed at you, it felt amazing. It couldn’t cool the whole cabin down though, which isn’t my concern. That was with the first gen unit which isn’t as powerful as the second gen… or so they say. The ice units don’t cool the cabin either but rather just what’s in front of them. And mine did and does great at it just at a limited time and pain of dealing with ice.

I think I’ll do the same, buy 2 used plates and cute a hole for the FAA approved louvers on my original ones. Luckily the guy who will do my first annual has done it for the previous owner for the last 16 years. He’s a good guy and charges $75 an hour. Not to mention he knows the plane well. I’m assuming a hole saw is what your IA used to cut the hole for the exhaust duct.

Did your Ia do the louvering on the rear inspection plate or did you have a machine shop do it. N201FV has a quite nice but very eloquent paint scheme that would make difficult to get a new panel and match it up correctly. All 4 colors run along the inspection plate. I’m thinking about just louvering the one that’s on there. Did you have it don’t to both inspection panels or just one side? The Eco flow says it has 5100btu of cooling and 6100 of heating. How any btu did the plane a/c have? I flew in a twin tecnam, for my multi that had a gen1 eco wave behind the pilot seat and it made the cockpit feel great if you had the tube of cold air blowing on you. Only issue was that the battery was shot and people didn’t always remember to charge it.

What a small world it is. Thanks, for the great insight. Crazy what one small screen shot can do. My goal isn’t entirely to cool the whole cabin, but rather have an unlimited source of coolish air to blow on me. I have built one of those ice chest A/C and it works great but it’s a pia to load up, take out and so on. Not to mention it’s not unlimited either. I’m hoping the Ecowave will do just that. Produce enough cool air to keep me cool and maybe cool the cabin a bit. I was also skeptical about intaking from the same place the exhaust was outputting, since all the other aircraft A/C didn’t do it. Was I correct in believing that the Plane A/C and Artic Air real A/C, didn’t have any sort of STC paperwork? Also cutting the hole and routing the exhaust is indeed a minor alteration or not so much? Did you route the exhaust hose all the way to the back inspection plate or did you just have it a foot into the empenage?

I just bought one of the Ecowave 2, portable A/C since they are having a crazy sale at the moment. I’m yet to get the unit, but I’m just spitballing ideas and questions before it arrives. The unit has 2 tubes that I plan to route through my aft bulkhead, on my J. One is for the exhaust and one for an intake. I would have thought that intaking air from inside the plane would be better, but all I’d be doing is taking cool air, adding heat and shooting out the exhaust. People say that the Ecowaves cooling BTU’s get cut down when you intake cooler air from both front and back. I don’t understand it but maybe somebody else will. One side of the A/C is the cool side with a front intake, and the back is the warm side with a large rear intake and exhaust on top. Before I bought my plane I looked at a V35B that had a Plane A/C system, similar to the artic air real A/C. Unfortunately, Ray Ackley “the guy who invented Plane A/C” passed away when his baron crashed into a semi, leaving behind his family. The company was handed over before his passing but seems to have died with him. That leaves me to my own vices, trying to make some sort of removable A/C system. It doesn’t seem to me that any of these systems needed or had any STC since they were classified as removable. Is cutting 2 holes in my rear baggage bulkhead, considered a minor alteration? Do I need a 337 or anything to due such a thing? I took pictures and looked at my bulkhead today. It’s just thick enough to not collapse on itself. I was surprised how thin it actually was. Here’s pictures of the eco wave flow, the Vtail I looked at, the plane A/C installed in a bravo, and my bulkhead.

My 201’s cowl has had a few failures of the fasteners. In researching, I’ve found the ipc calls for 6 of Part #: AN526-1032R10. 2 for each side of the prop hub and 2 more for the forward most upper ones. Right now I believe it has Part# 40S5-5S cam locks that all come out. 2 of which have lost the metal pin. My question is, are the screws the ipc calls for the same size as these cam loc fastener receptacles? Are there any washers or grommets associated with the screws? The ipc doesn’t call for any receptacles, washers, or grommets but I find it hard to believe these just screw in and fit perfectly. If money wasn’t an issue I’d just buy the skybolt kit but there’s other things needing priority it seems all the time. I change my oil every 35 hours, so I take the cowl off a lot. I fly 35 hours or more in a month and half or less. The fuel alone I use in the short time frame, would hurt anyones funds available.

My baggage door hold arm broke today. It snapped at the point where it connects to the top of the door. I found one on BAS from a K model for $250. Does anyone have one laying around or make them new? I can’t justify paying the $800 for a new one, if they even exist.

Shit, I’m anything but a hard ware sleuth. My mechanic thought it looked like we could pry out, but I think a set of small needle nose pliers might work. I’m waiting to post to ask about all the different screws, that comprise my Mooney. There’s so many variations in the interior, of small and large. Not to mention the many on the belly panels, which of course aren’t all the same. Not to mention the clip nuts that have fallen off or broke.

Yeah, my sticker was trashed before I took the paint off. Mooney had the decal so I ordered it through don maxwells people. The screw on the side, doesn’t have any sort of head to back it out. I’ve tried getting an allen key into it, but it didn’t bite anything.

I have a 1977 M20J, S/N:24-0213 it’s one of the more quirky Js being an early serial number. It has the lever style throttles, which I don’t prefer. I believe mine has the Dukes fuel selector valve assembly P/N:3331-900. I just got finished stripping the paint off the floor, surrounding the selector. It didn’t come from the factory painted to my knowledge. The previous owner had painted it… I like some things factory spec. I would like to remove my fuel selector knob, but don’t know how to remove it? I want to get it powder coated red. There’s no set screw on the top or anything. Only what appears to be a screw coming out the one side but it’s the threaded end, not the head. Also does the fuel strainer ring come off? It looks like it’s one of those rings on a binder with 2 pieces, that meet.

I always thought and read that it was because chroming could hide cracks in the spinner. But my memory is shit, so I could be completely wrong. A chromed spinner would beat the hell out of aluminum and its upkeep