Grant_Waite

Not fast at all, I pull my gear up as soon as I get off the ground. I’d say I’m well below 90.

The gear will start to come up and then it stops. The motor still runs but sounds like it’s binding. The jackscrew will move and then it stops almost like it’s not getting enough power. No, the circuit breakers don’t pop but the gear unsafe light stays on until I select gear down. No, I didn’t raise the gear with the emergency extension. I know it’s only for down operation. The emergency extension had issues about 75 plus cranks into it. I would like to ditch the dukes motor if I can, even if it’s not per se the culprit. I know this motor will have more issues and I don’t want to play around with gear issues.

My gear motor is having issues in my 1977 M20J. It’s the Dukes 1057-00-5. I just got done greasing it using the aeroshell#7 with 10% molybdenum mix. It was having issues before I greased it. I did the grease while the panels were off. It won’t retract the gear all the way. It doesn’t happen every time either. Most times it doesn’t, but sometimes it does. I tried using the emergency gear extension and it would stop moving the gear about 75 plus cranks into it. I read that if the motor gears are bad, the emergency gear extension won’t work either, because it uses the gears in the motor to crank the gear down. Glad I didn’t find that one out in an actual emergency! The gear has never had an issue coming down luckily. I’m looking at replacing the whole motor and getting rid of the emergency gear crank, in favor of the later model Eaton motors. Lasar seems to be the only place that has yellow tagged ones listed. I need to call Monday to see if they have any available. The gear motor had a new jackscrew assembly installed in 23 by don maxwell. If anyone could give me insight on if the Eaton retrofit is possible and if which of these motors from Lasar are the correct one. I have a video of the gear but it won’t let me upload from my phone. I need to call Lasar and Maxwell on Monday. https://lasar.com/actuators

Looks fantastic!

Is this the information I’m looking for? Not sure how to decode the numbers. This is the first time I’ve seen these so it all looks like hieroglyphics to me.

Do you by chance know the part number or where I can get a new connector for the CHT wire? It appears to have seen better days. I’ve seen others talk about how they couldn’t believe, how small that nut is that holds it on. Would cutting, then soldering a new piece of wire on be an acceptable solution for both the CHT and landing light? It would be a real pia to replace the whole length of each wire.

I see sections talking about the cht and landing light wire, but no schematics are given for either of them

I also have a 77J. Except mine just has the Aerotrim rudder trim, not the aileron. I’m assuming your’s has both because of a lack of autopilot. I wouldn’t see the aileron trim being necessary ever in our planes. I can’t tell from the picture what your rudder trim looks like but mine is just a tab about half way up the rudder with the linkage to the servo box. The servo is riveted on the outside of the rudder. I can send you the stc or 337 forms for mine. But from what you describe it’s not the Aerotrim. Mine uses an electric toggle switch with an indicator of left and right trim. Nothing like what you describe. The previous owner didn’t want to pay for the Stec 55x yaw damper, so he opted to add the Aerotrim instead. Having flow without it for the last few weeks, I can say I miss it. It’s nice in long climbs to be able to trim it out and not have to hold right rudder. You can see the tab painted in gold and the servo box.

My Factory CHT gauge stopped working and I found the culprit today. The wire is frayed a bit where the connector is. I have a jpi830 so I don’t look at the factory one. I just want it to work is all. I got it working today when I moved the wire and put some Acf 50 on it. I would like to know what kind of wire I should get to fix it. What would be the best method of fixing it? I also would like to replace my spade connectors on my landing light with one of these. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/sealAllconnectors9.php?clickkey=42540 I already have the connector but I believe my positive wire running into the firewall is too short. The ground looks long enough. The wire that run into the firewall are the fiberglass high heat wires. The other ones running along my cowl and to the light are just standard white one. I would like to know what size and type of wire I would need to extend the positive. My A&P put an amp meter on the light and it only drew 1.8 amps. So what size wire should I get? Preferably the same size as what I have. I’m not sure if it’s 18gauge wire or what.

Yeah, I agree we don’t have much head room to sacrifice. Barons make our planes look like smart cars. Not sure what model Mooney you have but mine still has the large overhead vents. Wish it had wemacs. Something that was able to direct the air out of the from 2 vents would be interesting. I have the scoop on the roof that opens or closes to let fresh air in. I believe all the planes that had the large vents have the scoop

You could probably make something similar to this, that Peter Schiff aero sells. It’s a bit more complicated but a dumbed down version or something similar is probably possible. I believe the overhead duct has the build in booster fans that you were mentioning. They say it puts out 240cfm so probably uses some sort of a bilge blower or whatever it’s called. Not sure how they attach it to the ceiling. It looks like they designed it for Beechcraft. Unless that picture is a one off custom duct they made. Glad my idea of ribs helped. Yeah, the battery is an essential. I got the one that attaches to the bottom of the wave. I think that it takes up no room. Just adds a bit of height. Definitely makes it too heavy to put in the plane with it attached. I can move the unit around with both attached just not at that weird angle to get it in. I’m too the point though where I don’t take the unit out of the plane anymore. I did the first few times to charge it but now I just charge it while I clean the plane. It finally drained the smaller bit of water into my container yesterday. Good to know it works.

I will gladly buy 2 from you. I’m not impressed with the one from Etsy. I am however impressed will your ability to model and 3d print anything you can dream of. The locking mechanism isn’t tight so it bleeds some exhaust air. The locking mechanism on the hose EcoFlow provides is insanely tight. Or at least on mine it is. I have a hard time getting them off. I can’t tell from the picture but if you could add some sort of ribs for the flex foil hose to slide over, that would be awesome. The Etsy one has nothing so it won’t stay on unless you have a hose clamp. I would love suggestions on how I might go about holding up the cold air hose so it’s suspended a bit. As you can see right now it’s just laying over the head rest. It slides off whenever I move my seat forward. When I first get in. I was thinking of something along the lines of the straps they use in house ducting to suspend them. Not sure how I’d attach something to the plastic headliner. Velcro maybe? Oh here’s some better pictures after today’s flight.

I don’t think they would add anything to the unit. Then you have to figure out a way to power the fans. It blows enough air that it feels quite cold. I’ve seen these and would love to have one in my plane but don’t even know what all I’d need to power it but probably a bigger alternator as well. They are certified. It looks like the same ones they have in most commercial airliners to power your electronics. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/mci10-06624.php

Yes, it does have a pump for condensation. I’ve since cut a small length of 1/2 in tubing and run it into a hole I drilled in a small tuber ware container. I didn’t like how long the hose that came with it was, it never slid over the piece that comes out of back of the unit for drainage quite right. I also found the pump would stay running because the hose was too long. The water would sit in the bends and never be able to get out because the pump wasn’t strong enough to overcome gravity and the little water. This wasn’t an issue at all when I tested it at home. I had it sitting on top of the box it came in and the drainage hose running down into a bucket. The gravity and humid air made it easy for the unit to expel the water. There was however a shit ton of water still left in the unit when I removed it a day later, so be ware of that if you use this unit as intended like for camping or something else. Mind you, the unit ran straight for 24hrs without an issue so the water build up makes sense. Non of these drainage things are in issue in the plane. It just doesn’t create literally any water for the unit to expel any. Since it’s also dehumidifying the air and it’s basically on recirculate mode like a car, it makes sense. I do open the vents up when I turn it on so it can sort of get fresh air. Not sure if does anything or not. I drilled the hole as high up on my baggage wall as I could get it. I can feel the hot air coming out of the tail with the louvred inspection plates I made. I used this from Home Depot as the exhaust hose hook up. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Dryer-Vent-Duct-to-Wall-Connector-EZCNHD/203626503 It’s the same one @Lancecasper used. He was a big help in answering all my questions I had and what he found worked best. I used a 4in flex foil duct from Home Depot to screw into that dryer vent adapter. I cut it to the shortest possible length once everything was set up. You will need that adapter from Etsy and a 4inch hose clamp since it doesn’t fit tightly on the adapter just loosely. Without the adapter, you can’t connect any hose other than Eco flows to the unit. They have a locking mechanism which allows the hoses to be attached securely. I would compare the air flow to feel just like your household air conditioning vents. That’s if you were inch’s away from them. The unit doesn’t blow as hard as a car does, but it does blow more than enough considering the long run of 5in hose. I would like some sort of adapter to split the airflow between me and the co pilot seat. I fly alone mainly but it would be nice to have. That’s something for you to figure out with your 3d printing skills. The easing hose does get warm but I don’t think insulating the hose would help all that much. I made my hose as short as I could for that sole purpose. One think I don’t like is there isn’t a complete seal of the exhaust adapter that comes with the unit. So a bit of warm arm doesn’t go into the hose just out from the one side of the adapter. It’s almost like it could use a little rubber door sill to keep it tight. It’s so minute that it doesn’t matter. My ice chest ac couldn’t even compete so I’m very happy with the results. I bought some of the Gila tint and put it in my front passenger window. I don’t like the bluish hue and distortion it gives off. I would like to get a set of https://wingviewtint.com/products/mooney-plane-tint-kits?_pos=1&_sid=82e5ba593&_ss=r They are half the price of jet shades but still a lot for tint. It’ll be well worth it though. I like the idea of them being easily removable and not being stuck like the static cling. I need to email them because I want both the back and front windows in the dark shade. They only offer the mid shade for the fronts. I agree it does help a ton with just simple tint. I also have the plane covered with one of Bruce’s covers even under the shade hangar. Your windows and interior will look years better than any other plane that isn’t. There’s a 2011 182 right in front of me and he doesn’t have anything on his plane…

I talked with them at Sun and fun to see their unit. It works great but I just don’t have the funds for it at this time. They are the only company to my knowledge that still makes and actually installs a fully portable A/C in any plane. It’s not too pricey of a unit but they recommend a 100 amp alternator, which adds to the cost. On my plane, I couldn’t even get a 100amp alternator so I’m screwed out of it even if I had the money to do it. That’s fine though, this isn’t my forever plane.

The unit has been working great, it keeps me cool with the cold air duct just laying over the headrest of my seat. I don’t know how much it actually cools the whole cabin but that wasn’t my intention with such a small unit. It easily gets a 20° differential and even greater depending on how hot the air is. It gets the air to 70° or less within a minute or 2. I love it! It doesn’t create any water, since I’m not intaking the outside air directly. When I got the unit I set it up at home with the exhaust hose out a window and the one rear intake out the same window. It created a good amount of water when I did that, but rightly so since I’m in Florida. The app is great because I can turn it on or off with my phone at anytime in flight. It works off of Bluetooth. I will take more pictures when I fly this week. I’ve since gotten a 3d printed adapter from Etsy to allow for the exhaust hose to use a normal 4in flex foil duct with the locking mechanism still in use. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1733979321/ecoflow-wave-2-5-to-100mm-adapter?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_b-electronics_and_accessories-car_parts_and_accessories-car_accessories&utm_custom1=_k_Cj0KCQjwu8uyBhC6ARIsAKwBGpSwdCzJ8O9c9ThbbGeLXrIqxx-8pxFRnpIBK5ZXWjvWmY4FNidVxFoaAouxEALw_wcB_k_&utm_content=go_1843970782_69216062865_346398034798_aud-2007167693509:pla-354955384985_m__1733979321_12768591&utm_custom2=1843970782&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtcfRJLm2i5MdsW9LhdN5wD4ILfk&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu8uyBhC6ARIsAKwBGpSwdCzJ8O9c9ThbbGeLXrIqxx-8pxFRnpIBK5ZXWjvWmY4FNidVxFoaAouxEALw_wcB I’m sure BCG could make the same thing and not cost the 60 bucks I paid. The battery works great last me more than enough time I need. I’ve yet to run it out. When I get back I just plug it into the A/C power while I clean off the plane and tie it down. My plane sits in a shade hangar so it’s not outside in direct sunlight but it’s not inside either. After getting fuel the other day at 4pm it was probably a feel like of 110 on the ramp and 98 outside. The A/C did struggle to feel cold even though it was putting out 74° air. That’s just a limitation though of the small size and the fact the plane sat in the sun for a good 20 minutes. It was absolutely better than nothing and I can’t express how nice not having to use ice is. It’s basically unlimited cold air and all that I need to do when I’m done flying is charge the battery. It’s easiest to put the battery in the plane then set the unit in since 50lbs is just too heavy for the awkward baggage door.

See attached all 3 of my oil samples since ownership of the plane. Numbers were elevated in the first and down in the second, then up again in the third. Plane has just over 400 hours smoh that was done in 2019. In 2010 the engine was sent to lycoming because it had a burned intake valve on #3 and camshaft lobe spalling. They replaced the camshaft, tappets, cylinders with P/N: 05K21120, rings, bearings, hardware, and all perishable items. I did an initial borescope using the Savvy recommended pictures, after the first analysis. Everything looked normal, there was the slightest bit of pitting in the cylinders from sitting in Florida but not to worry about. I fly the plane a lot so it doesn’t sit more than a week. I try to change the oil every 35 hours. The most recent sample has iron up which with the other 2 metals could be a sign of exhaust valve wear. I’d like anyone’s insight if this is normal numbers for the engine or is this early signs of possible exhaust valve wear. Oil analysis 1:11:24.pdfOil analysis 3:3:24.pdfOil analysis 4:18:24.pdf

Thank you, all for the replies I think I’m going to go with what works okay and that’s a 1 hose exhaust. The nice thing about a plane is I can climb to cooler and less humid air. Unlike a car or house can obviously. Which I feel negates most of the fear about eventually pulling in more hot and humid air. Now if I sit on the ground for a while, which I typically don’t for more than 15minutes from startup to takeoff then I could see it being an efficiency loss. But since it’s not just that easy to make 2 functional intake and exhaust in a plane it’s an inefficiency we deal with. If I had the bones of a plane and money I would so pay to have a factory A/C installed… one day maybe. The weight penalty is worth it for having A/C like in a car. I will keep everyone posted when I have the unit and can do some testing on it. Here’s a better picture of my avionics in the back. There’s not much back there I think I need to worry about, getting hot.

Ideally I would like to get my hot air vent as close to this inspection plate as I could. I’m not sure if it would help all that much but who knows. I need to test the unit out in both configurations to see how well it works. I’m leaning towards a one hose setup. Any less holes in the bulkhead, the better

Even if the exhaust and intake are right next to one another. Here’s a picture of how it’s set up in a car, van, or house.

Yes it is

Mine is a 1977 J with S/N 24-0213. So if I’m understanding that correctly it just needed part B done. Mine still has the original insulation and it looks awful here’s a picture of it

The plane does have a sealed Concorde battery so it no longer needs the one tube for the battery. I could run the hose all the back there and where that tube is now. I built a Frankencooler blowbox, which was detached from the cooler. I just set it on the back seat, on a towel and have my cooler with ice in the baggage compartment. Unfortunately the plane still has all the old rat nesting, looking insulation. I did feel under the carpet of the baggage area and it felt humid or like it had been holding moisture in the insulation. There wasn’t any water or anything visible on my hand. I know early 210’s had issue with the factory insulation holding moisture, causing corrosion of the main wing spar. At least some 210’s can be repaired and still worth it to do so. Albeit a 60k wing spar and labor if you can get one. For the older Mooney fleet, they just aren’t worth much to begin with, so replacing both wings for the spar doesn’t make much sense. Not to mention the disastrous state of parts for the older planes. I love the Mooney but Mooney themselves are letting all owners down. I’d like to replace it all but that’s not something I have the funds or down time for.

It does have a condensation hose, the unit has the option to run it drain free or with the drain hose attached. In drain free mode, the water collects in a pan and will either evaporate from the internal heat of the coils or build up and the unit will shut off. Surprisingly these units don’t make much condensation like a household ac or car ac does. Probably from the less btu and cooling output. Even when I had my ice air conditioner. It didn’t make much condensation to worry about.

The unit I bought, comes with the self contained battery. I’m not going to hardwire the unit into the ship. I believe it draws something like 300watts on the battery and more like 400 plus plugged into an A/C outlet. The battery can run the unit for 2hrs about at max setting or up to 8 on eco but I doubt that ladder number. Once again the goal isn’t the cool the cabin like we do in our cars but to cool me directly. People get highly disappointed when these portable units can’t cool a room or van. But that’s not the intent. Even if that’s how they advertise them and get people to buy them. It can cool down a tent and that’s about it. And the Mooney cabin isn’t a whole lot bigger than most tents. The one experience I had when I was doing my multi, was quite pleasant. The tecnam is like a solar panel, with its front sloped window and no sun visors. Not to mention the prop wash being out of the way of the side vent in the cabin door. Whenever you had the large 6in hose pointed at you, it felt amazing. It couldn’t cool the whole cabin down though, which isn’t my concern. That was with the first gen unit which isn’t as powerful as the second gen… or so they say. The ice units don’t cool the cabin either but rather just what’s in front of them. And mine did and does great at it just at a limited time and pain of dealing with ice.