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AndreiC

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AndreiC last won the day on June 3 2024

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  • Location
    Madison, WI
  • Reg #
    N9351V
  • Model
    1970 M20E
  • Base
    91C

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  1. My understanding was that the issue would be if the crud got into the servo but not left it -- that it could clog things up there. Isn't it the case that silicon that would show up in oil would be from whatever crap the plane picked up that did make its way out of the servo? I am not that concerned about that stuff, more about the stuff that is stuck in the servo.
  2. @EricJ My mechanic just discovered that my ram air door cable has been broken for the best part of a year (the time since my last annual), thus the door has stayed open during all this time, including during ground operations. (1970 E.) I operated only from paved runways in this time, and not particularly badly crumbling ones. Should I be concerned that I got crud in the servo? So far the engine has been running like a top, no complaints, so other than your comments above I have no reasons to suspect a bad servo. What should I do at this point? Sorry to be changing the topic of this thread.
  3. I don't know anything about Horton so can't answer that. Price-wise, I think it depends how deep they will go into the inspection. Around here (upper Midwest) $3500 is the price of an annual if they don't find serious things that need addressing. (I.e., never; but the things that need addressing are extra.) In my mind an annual is more extensive than a prepurchase inspection, but I may be wrong (for example on an annual with a mechanic that already knows the plane they don't need to review the logbooks from the beginning onwards; while on a ppi they may not need to swing the gear). How to factor in West Coast prices is also an unknown. So in conclusion my gut feeling is that the price is high, but not obscenely high.
  4. @Igor_U That panel is beautiful, that is the kind of thing I was hoping to get to... How many hours of work on your part do you estimate that was to install it (not counting the CAD design time)?
  5. Well, since it seems there has been at least one person who did this @Igor_U, was the juice worth the squeeze? Can you perhaps share pics of the after results?
  6. I got a crazy idea, and I am sure I'll be told off soon about this. But hear me out. My plane (1970 E) has the standard six pack with modest avionics (JPI 700 engine monitor, GNS430W/KX155/KT78, original engine instrumentation). Nonetheless I am happy with their functionality and don't want to change anything. However, I dislike the way the whole thing is laid out, it all look very scattershot; rearranging things would make things better. My question: what would it cost to have someone cut me a nice one piece panel that I would design? And how much would it cost to have it installed? Can I do some or most of the work myself, under supervision of an A&P, or do I need an avionics shop for this? Has anyone done anything similar to this, or is this a crazy idea?
  7. Going back to the OP's posting, and with the caveat that without pictures it is much harder to assess paint and interior condition, I would guess that the plane as described should fetch around $75-80k in a private party sale, perhaps a bit more if Jimmy Garrison was selling it. I am calculating this against my own plane which I think would normally sell for around $75k (1970 E with 650 hours on a good overhaul with new cylinders). -- The one the OP is selling has a lower timed engine from a reputable shop so that would count for more, maybe +$10k. -- No autopilot and no engine monitor lower the value, at least for me they are a must -- -$10k (50% of cost to install new ones) -- I don't know how to price the Rayjay turbo -- I'm sure it is great for high altitude takeoffs (not important for me as a low-lander), and probably gets you higher speeds at altitude, but at the expense of more maintenance -- $0 -- There is no mention on high cost items like tank reseals, landing gear shock disks; any damage history; hours flown in the last 2/5/10 years? I did not put a value on this, but this could add or subtract quite a bit.
  8. As the OP of this post I should have said what I decided: I went with the Artex 345, and so far (1 year in) it’s all good.
  9. Hello all, during my coming annual I was hoping to get my front seats redone. The covering on them is still fine, and I'd like to keep it (it matches with the rest of the interior), but the foam underneath is compressed; I would also like to get the seating position to be higher by maybe one inch by putting more foam in. Problem is that I called Oregon Aero, and they quoted me an incredible price, around $2200 per seat just to make cushions for me. (Without any installation or anything, just to have the molded foam cut.) That is way way too expensive for what I want to do. My question is what other options do I have? Is there a way to source aviation-approved foam to install in the seats? The plane is a 1970 M20E. Thanks.
  10. Wow, your F really is a wonderful machine. What is the useful load? Over 1000 lbs? In my E if I put 800 lbs in the cabin I can barely fly 1 hour with 1 hour reserve... (but I have bladders and 3-blade prop, both of which add to the weight).
  11. Well I got some real life data. Over the weekend I flew some long flights, from Madison WI to Santa Fe NM (two days, with a stopover in Lincoln, NE) and back (one day yesterday). On the way down I had some unforecasted headwinds (they had forecast headwinds to be 8-10kts at 16500, but they were more like 15-20kts) but made up for it on the way back (30-35kts tailwind at 15000). The overall distance covered was 1775nm in 12h10m, for a complete block to block average speed of 145.89 kts. Not so bad. I've been trying to figure out from this data what is a good guess of my block-to-block speed without wind is, and a rough estimate seems to be around 140-141 kts, so about 5 hts slower than @Shadrach's. Of course, the longer the legs the closer the block-to-block speed is to TAS.
  12. Hi @GBFlyer, I am based in Madison, but frequently go to 3D2, Ephraim. I would be happy to let you know when I go there next time (probably in about two weeks). If you want to come over there I am happy to take you up for a ride, or we could arrange for me to meet you at KGRB on my way there or back. My plane is an E model. Let me know if you're interested (you can DM me), and we can try to arrange something. Andrei.
  13. Well, it seems like there is about a 5 knot penalty on my plane for the 1970 model (with many exposed screw heads instead of flush rivets) and inefficient three blade prop. My best speed/fuel efficiency ratio for cruising seems to be 9.3 gph (peak EGT) at 8500 feet, 143 kts, 2500 rpm.
  14. Thanks, Dev. I spoke to the folks at LASAR and decided to try to install the flap gap seals (at least) at my next annual. (At the moment they are trying to get things squared away with the FAA after their move to Oregon, and are not selling any of the kits; but they should be available in a month or so.) The other two kits they recommended were the dorsal fin vertical seal and the wing root fairing. Anyone have any experience if these two do anything to improve speed?
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