Denis Mexted

My Dad had this in our old Bonanza. It had the ball rod end, but a used, in in this case 'used' metal lock nut instead of a castellated nut and split pin. Actually in typing this I think it was the throttle. And in that case the throttle arm has a spring on it to move it to full throttle. What does the mixture arm do? Stay in the same position I assume.

How does one determine what mechanical fuel pump to use? The fuel pump coming off had no part numbers to replace like for like. The Tempest product info gives 3 options for a M20F shown here. And I'm scratching my head. Any guidance appreciated.

Hello MS. I do like the look of chrome rocker covers, but I believe they caused issues. I guess separation of the chrome. What other ideas are out there? I may as well start; Lycoming grey paint. Cheers, Denis.

Ok. But are there any other places that use that microswitch? It's highly unlikely to be a gear switch. And if it is I second ArtVandelay's concern, 'make you wonder what else they did'.

That's ok. Rant away. I've always been comfortable with limited panel and have used it successfully in the past. Mind you IFR flying has been my bread and butter for the last 33 years. But, this aircraft is not about me. There are numerous failure points that could cause stress. Engine failure being the most obvious one. I would have thought, particularly compared to a vac driven gyro, the failure rate of an electronic G5 would be very low. (I did have a mate loose 4 screens in a Global once but that's an other story) But when and if this Mooney becomes IFR, I'll give the above some thought so all view points welcomed.

Andy95W. Rippa. Thanks for those pics. Just what I was looking for.

The red dot I believe is telling me to put it abeam the tube valve. What are all the silver dots telling me? Progress has slowed a bit. Particularly on the gear. I'm waiting on bits from the States. I don't want to paint until I can colour match with the new nose gear truss.

Having said that, I'm not so sure a M20C '67 model has Ram Air. What other switches would it have?

My 2 cents. I can't imagine someone would disable the gear horn. I can on the other hand imagine they would remove the Ram Air function. This drives the Ram Air annunciator light.

Are we talking a shelf for magnetometer or just remote avionics boxes? The magnetometer. I imagine a shelf would have to be built. Any pics or is there a pre-fabbed one I can purchase? I'm not sure why the battery would be an issue. I didn't go into it, but just the concept of mutual inductance and magnetic fields makes my head spin.

My electrical man dropped by yesterday afternoon and canned the idea of putting it on the avionics shelf behind the back cabin bulkhead. Too close to the battery. He's talking in the wing. Anyone got a pic's of a wing installation?

So the AHRS is not a modern fancy and affordable IRS ? The AH would still remain upright, wouldn't it ?

Do you need the tc for the autopilot? Otherwise that’s the first thing I’d ditch. An interesting point. (we really are a product of our experiences) My thinking was backup if the gyros (in this case screens) topple. But as you point out there is no reason the standby can't be another Vac driven gyro. Thanks. Making this an IFR machine would be 1/2 years away and dependant of a few things, including that USD to back off a bit. It's killing me at the moment. I apologise for the 'questions' guys. There are stages in life where there is time to spend manual reading and times where it's a challenge due work, kids and trying to restore a Mooney in insufficient time. My avionics installer will be all over this. I just was seeking some real world solutions. Anyway, he'll be here soon, so out of bed.

Thanks RobertGary1. This aircraft is going out VFR initially. Although if it goes out IFR it won't have a Vac system. When I was a much younger person I departed in a C210 into the murk and the AH rolled over. The T&B was very useful and got me home. I'm sure it wouldn't have looked pretty on the modern tracking apps, but it worked. * I will keep all pitot / static instruments.

Thanks, the aft avionics area would be ideal. I've just pulled the HF out of there sucking up a huge amount of space and weight.

Hand forced. Bench tested the two gyros. DG wanders, AH works, but very nosy and not a lot of life left. Vac pump already failed. So 2 G5's it is. The direction driver for the HSI G5 I'm told comes from a GMU 11 Magnetometer. Is there any trick to mounting this? Does it need a rack and does it need to be mounted flat for normal flight. I'm sure a lot will be explained when the unit arrives, but that's weeks away.

While on the topic of Undercarriage, could someone explain the change from 20:1 to 40:1 gearing ratios to me. It's a bit late now, but I guess winding the gear down via the emergency extension and counting the turns would reveal which I have.

This part is quite pitted. The two main gear Link Assemblies are for the bin.

For the lateral stability, I'm thinking about three anchor points in the floor with rigid links between the tail tie-down and the anchor points in the floor. Fly Boomer : I'd try the 2 Dynabolt method. I once had a Bonanza on Jacks for a year and this worked well. Having said that, I realise there is not a lot of resistance for/aft. I hate being up on jacks, but the job still needs to be done. Some more pics. The ear of the Nose Gear Truss. The notes that came with the aircraft said it had a nose gear shimmy.

Does anyone have some 520010-1 Main Gear Link Assemblies in good condition?

It’s quite corroded in spots. Particularity where the outer seat rails were. it would be far easier to bead blast and hang in the paint booth. But is that 2 hours or 2 days of work?

Just wondering. How easy is it to take out this floor? All seat rails are out at the moment. I couldn’t see too much drama in taking out the floor, but then again I’m yet to try.

Maintenance on this cable. My interior, belly and even gear are out at the moment. No better time to pull this cable. Should I pull and hang it, dripping a bit of Penetrene or oil through it?

EricJ and M20Doc: I looked at that link assembly and thought, easy. Order a couple of new rod ends and drop around to the brilliant, and certified welder. Problem solved. Getting past the first step is the challenge. I've sorted the flap bearings. The flap bearings are MS14101-3 I've got some stuff coming from Lasar, so I'll ask about the mysterious elevator/rudder bearings. Torrington 3a. Thanks for everyones interest.

Cliffy: Yes I joined last week. It's been a busy 8 days. My engineering mate goes home tomorrow and I feel we've accomplished a lot. The next few months it'll be up to me to gather the bits, continue the clean up and be ready for re-assemble.