BillyT0020

Always good to confirm it’s not the generator or something else in the system. If you do end up needing the Zeftronics regulator, I spoke with my friend yesterday and he decided to convert to an alternator, so I can get that one I had back if you want. Just let me know. Billy

Im sorry I do not, buddy just took it last week.

I would definitely use the one with the screen, just make sure it’s oriented correctly. Last time I had my governor off I found a ton of tiny metal shavings from the cylinders/rings breaking in after a TOH. I was impressed with its filtering capabilities. Billy

I love GEU, I will probably always stay there. It’s gotten a little more busy lately with the new LSA time building school, but no where near as bad as GYR with Aviate. DVT is also not my favorite airport, I always get beat up in the pattern there with the wind coming off the mountains but it may be a little closer to you from Sun City. Billy

On my intake boot there is a square metal spacer between the bolts and intake boot that the head of the bolts sit on, same on the servo side. If you're talking about the bolts spinning the rubber between the spacer and the cowl, they would so the same thing on the servo side. Billy

Interesting, I may try that next time. I thought the servo side was safety wired, but I usually remove the cowl side so could be wrong. I increased the length of the bolts in the 4 corners, which makes getting the cowl side lined up a breeze. Billy

Id also be suspect of the Lasar “overhaul”. I know at-least 2 people that got bad pumps from them recently. Billy

The cable slides thru the hole in the AN bolt, and is wedged between the washers holding it in place. The safety wire you see goes thru the roll pin on the other side of the shaft bracket to keep it from coming out in flight. Here are a few pics of that style mechanism. I’ve had had my lower cowl off more times than I can count, the boost door cable is always the hardest part, especially on install, but the more you do it the easier it gets. I’m up to Nascar pit crew speeds now, and can now get it on and off by myself pretty quick. Sometimes when I’m bored and have nothing to do on the plane, I drop the lower cowl for fun. j/k If you can manage to find the over center boost door arm, it’s a much nicer mechanism, and pushes the cable attachment back 3-4 inches, which aids in its removal. Here’s a few pics of that as well with the part number. You will need to drop the lower cowl, pull the roll pin on the shaft arm, and trim off the arm where the adel clamps mount the cable sheath, and then it will bolt right in. Billy

Before I pulled the governor for overhaul I would take a look at the cable attachments, both ends, as cable could be slipping in its sheath. There should be double adel clamps on the governor bracket, make sure they are nice and tight. Just a thought. Billy

Ill take it. PM Sent. Billy

I have the exhaust hangar, will DM pics. Billy

Had good luck setting them in place, then rotating the whole shroud with light taps on a flathead screwdriver on up against the protruding part on the outside of the shroud.

I had the same issue with AV-30’s. I bought a new unit on barnstormers but had been sitting in a box for 2 years so the battery was at 0% and would not charge in the panel. The seller made it right and paid for a new $200 battery but I decided to see if I could figure out a workaround with the old one. Turns out if you take them out of the unit you can charge them on a rechargeable battery charger and they will return to normal when reinstalled. No reason to think the g’5’s wouldn’t work the same. Billy

Yeah I ended up dropping the exhaust, and the lower cowl to replace with the new style Lycoming Valve. Now its easily removable if I need to clean the new one.

Happy to help! Let me know that your box made it safe. Billy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk