BillyT0020

I actually bought a spare FF IO-360-A1A that I am overhauling now as a fun long term project. I just did a TOH on my current motor with OH’ed cylinders, and it’s not making metal (knock knock), so I won’t be swapping in the new motor until the old one gives me a reason, but I pondered a lot of the same decisions as you during the process. I chose to go with New Lycoming Cylinders this time around simply for the fact that I wanted to start fresh on this build. The problem with OH’ed, is usually don’t have an idea of what you are getting unless they rework your exact cylinders, if they are even serviceable. I am still on the wait list at Airpower, which I have been on since January. I should see them by next summer based on the 18 months lead time I was quoted. I do plan to send them to Ly-Con for a port and polish, alodine treatment, but will Cerakote them myself when they get back to match the rest of the motor instead of having them paint the barrels and leave the alodine finish on the fins . I am a huge fan of Cerakote, the cooling benefits alone are far superior to paint, and I like the look of the finish. I Cerakoted the crankcase, sump, accessory case, all the brackets, the entire exhaust (muffler included), intake tubes, valve covers, all the brackets, the starter ring gear etc. Kinda went a little nuts, but after I spent way too much on a blast cabinet and the new massive industrial air compressor I needed to run it continuously, I was going to get my money’s worth. lol Should be one sharp looking motor when its done. I had my mushroom tappets DLC coated at Airworx in lieu of roller lifters, largely due to cost but I also believe that DLC will solve the Lycoming cam issues of past. If it’s in the budget, roller engines are super smooth, and having the ability to swap a lifter w/o splitting the crankcase is clutch. I did have the Ly-Con O-Ring Mod done on the new case after it was overhauled to avoid leaks in the future. My current case has a heavy dose of sealant running the entire length of the spline, so obviously leaks were an issue previously for someone. Based on the excellent reviews from aerobatic guys that have been running them hard for thousands of hours now, IMO it was a no brainer and far superior to the silk thread method which will eventually leak. It’s my understanding you don’t use any sealant on the case halves with the O-Ring Mod, but I will double check with them before we assemble to be sure. I also ordered a few extra o-rings in case they become unobtanium in the future. Good luck on the build, it’s been super fun and wildly informative for me. Billy

F Model but same airframe with the battery in the tail. I’ll have a look at the red wire location, can’t remember if we wired it to the battery directly or thru the solenoid. Thanks for the suggestion. Billy

I have your electric step and it works well. If I could make one change it would be the ability to keep it always stored in the up position. I have it wired to a switch on the panel, but when power is cut via the master, it defaults down. Anyway to achieve this via wiring schematic? Billy

Sorry this is sold. Ill try to update this later. Apologies Billy

Yup, still have it!

Always good to confirm it’s not the generator or something else in the system. If you do end up needing the Zeftronics regulator, I spoke with my friend yesterday and he decided to convert to an alternator, so I can get that one I had back if you want. Just let me know. Billy

Im sorry I do not, buddy just took it last week.

I would definitely use the one with the screen, just make sure it’s oriented correctly. Last time I had my governor off I found a ton of tiny metal shavings from the cylinders/rings breaking in after a TOH. I was impressed with its filtering capabilities. Billy

I love GEU, I will probably always stay there. It’s gotten a little more busy lately with the new LSA time building school, but no where near as bad as GYR with Aviate. DVT is also not my favorite airport, I always get beat up in the pattern there with the wind coming off the mountains but it may be a little closer to you from Sun City. Billy

On my intake boot there is a square metal spacer between the bolts and intake boot that the head of the bolts sit on, same on the servo side. If you're talking about the bolts spinning the rubber between the spacer and the cowl, they would so the same thing on the servo side. Billy

Interesting, I may try that next time. I thought the servo side was safety wired, but I usually remove the cowl side so could be wrong. I increased the length of the bolts in the 4 corners, which makes getting the cowl side lined up a breeze. Billy

Id also be suspect of the Lasar “overhaul”. I know at-least 2 people that got bad pumps from them recently. Billy

The cable slides thru the hole in the AN bolt, and is wedged between the washers holding it in place. The safety wire you see goes thru the roll pin on the other side of the shaft bracket to keep it from coming out in flight. Here are a few pics of that style mechanism. I’ve had had my lower cowl off more times than I can count, the boost door cable is always the hardest part, especially on install, but the more you do it the easier it gets. I’m up to Nascar pit crew speeds now, and can now get it on and off by myself pretty quick. Sometimes when I’m bored and have nothing to do on the plane, I drop the lower cowl for fun. j/k If you can manage to find the over center boost door arm, it’s a much nicer mechanism, and pushes the cable attachment back 3-4 inches, which aids in its removal. Here’s a few pics of that as well with the part number. You will need to drop the lower cowl, pull the roll pin on the shaft arm, and trim off the arm where the adel clamps mount the cable sheath, and then it will bolt right in. Billy

Before I pulled the governor for overhaul I would take a look at the cable attachments, both ends, as cable could be slipping in its sheath. There should be double adel clamps on the governor bracket, make sure they are nice and tight. Just a thought. Billy

Ill take it. PM Sent. Billy