CL605

The descent rate was close to double the max, which means the load was close to 4x max. I’ve been in both a 757 and a A321 where, for unknown reasons, the PF did not flare. At all. It was ugly, some O2 masks dropped on the 75, but no damage was found. That was with about 600-700 fpm. In those cases, it no doubt helped that both mains made contact at the same time Procedures are relatively easy to teach. Airmanship, not so much.

1100 fpm is very hard, but it seems likely that the side load from the 7 degree right bank, combined with a 3g impact, over stressed the MLG side brace and caused the collapse.

https://avherald.com/h?article=52439b47&opt=0

I know many on this board have gone through scenarios like this dozens of times in full motion simulators. Hopefully they will chime in. FWIW, the technique I have been taught year after year is as follows: 1. Fly the approach with your hand on the yoke and your feet on the rudders. The pitch and roll described in the original post didn't happen without discernible movement from one or more primary flight control surfaces. 2. At the first sign of the AP not doing what it should be doing, disconnect it. 3. If you have both uncommanded roll and nose low attitude, correct the roll issue first, then pitch and power as you approach wings level. 4. If you are nose high, correct pitch and power first, then correct any roll issues as you approach level flight. The autopilot is your best friend... right up until it is not.

The right gear obviously collapsed and I suspect we will know why fairly soon. It certainly was a very hard landing with no discernible flair. I once watched a light twin try to flair while approaching near a stall. Full up elevator did result in some increase in pitch, but the stall resulted in an increase in an already high descent rate. It hit so hard it bent the wing and dug both props into the dirt. Shortest stopping distance I've ever seen in a light twin. Whether the CRJ exceeded structural limits or whether there were other factors remains to be seen. Vince Neil's Lear had prior damage to the left main and that may have contributed to that gear failing on landing in Scottsdale. Also, when the right gear of the CRJ collapsed the aircraft not only rolled but also would have pitched up a few degrees, supported by the nose gear and left main. The increased lift from the one remaining wing would have caused the subsequent rollover. Like many have expressed, great respect is due the flight attendants. That was professionalism in action.

I’ve been told by a reliable source that aluminum loses 1/2 its strength at about 400. That is my personal limit, and I’ve run every engine I’ve owned well past TBO. It may just be coincidence.

I have a 1977 J with the dual mag setup, and I know the JPI 830 needs to be set up as an 8 cylinder engine in order to display the correct RPM. I have read everything I can find on how to do this, and I have gotten as far as the setup display that asks "7,8,9 cyl" followed by a Y or N. I cannot find how to select 8 cyl. JPI is closed for the holiday and I am getting the annual signed off tomorrow and would like to fly if possible. Anyone remember how to program 8 cylinders into the 830? Keep it simple, I'm not that smart.

Thanks for the info, I'll post when I get a chance to do a bit more diagnostics..

Thanks, that is helpful. Am I correct in thinking that it is a normally open switch and it closes with airspeed, completing a circuit to operate the gear?

It has the airspeed safety switch. I assume that replaces the squat switch? And even with the throttle at idle, no warning horn.

I'm restoring a 1977 M20J that I have never flown. While conducting a gear retraction, I expected to have to depress the bypass switch to get the gear to come up. I also expected to hear the warning horn until the switch was depressed. Instead it came up immediately and without sounding the horn. I'm guessing that the airspeed safety switch is a normally open circuit, as well as the bypass switch? If that is the case, then if either switch is failed closed, will that allow the gear to operate without the horn sounding? Thanks in advance for any help!

I started in general aviation, then became a CFI, then corporate (King Air 200) then I was hired at a major. 29 years later I retired as an Airbus captain. Now I fly corporate/135 on a Challenger 605. I miss the airline and have to consciously avoid thinking about it too much or I forget how lucky I am to still be flying jets. For me, airline flying was awesome and paid for an airport home and several aircraft over the years. Whatever investment you make, it pays off many times over. The people who "tolerate" it are (in my experience) not really aviation people. If you don't love aviation, find something else to do. If you do love it, then go for it and hopefully you will end up at an airline. That said, corporate flying jobs still pay well and and many find it a satisfying career. Best of luck to your nephew!

FWIW, a few years back I went through the OPP process for the rubber gear donuts on a Beech Sundowner. Beech can supply them, but they are 3rd party products (Lord mfg?) and the wait time and cost are prohibitive. Beech was about $5000 for a set, the alternative was around $500. A company in South Africa produced the parts, and to keep it above board per FAA each order required that the purchaser sign off on a set of drawings saying "yes, please make me this part per these drawings." And we all placed separate orders and paid separately. I sold the Sundowner 3 years ago (to buy a 201J) but to my knowledge none of the club members have had any troubles with the parts or the FAA. If the gears become available at a somewhat reasonable price, put me down for a set, OPP or otherwise.

Thanks for the quick relies. New screws are on order.

I pulled the fuel tank access panels on my newly acquired 1977 M20J several months ago in order to track down and reseal a few small leaks. The leaks are sealed but the screws that secure the upper panels have gone missing. I have a supply of 10-32 100 degree countersunk 1/2 inch screws, but they appear to be just a touch long. I'm searching for the IPM to get a part number for the correct screws, or in lieu of that, does anyone know the correct screw (or even the grip length)? Many thanks! I'm excited to get this project finished and back in the air.