toomany

wait a minute, Isabel Goyer isn't Roberts daughter? Haa! no wonder she looks just like him. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ordered a surefly yesterday - should have it in by the end of next week or early the following. It requires a hot wire from the master solenoid so i'll run the 14ga. from the battery compartment to the engine bay to save time and money. Henry Weber at LNS will do the install and land the hot wire. I'll try to do before and after comparison and post here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

local a&p at the field did the OH on the set thats on the bird now, first set was done by Columbia in bloomsburg PA where engine was done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

150, maybe 200hrs. interestingly first set of mags that were redone at overhaul went out about 100hrs in. im now wondering if there is an intermittent short from the ignition switch that may be causing a fault in the impulse coupling. im going to replace the ignition switch w mag rocker switches and a push button start first to see what happens. when i remove ignition switch ill ohm out the p-leads and check for continuity based on switch position. regardless, getting rid of the ignition switch will be a net positive even if condition persists. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks pinecone - im leaning more toward an ignition switch, or a grounding issue on the left mag and and will check both asap and update here. i can hear the impulse coupling clacking on start up but that doesnt mean its doing its job if grounding is affecting it. whats puzzling is that sometimes it starts right away when its warm but other times not. Lately cold starts only happen w exact prime and key release. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thank you Lance. i think ill add it regardless just for the convenience - keys and i are like oil amd water. thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thank you Lance. I prefer the two rocker switch and push button design over a key, that if you have a second key or a keychain attached to it, dangles too close (im my opinion) to your left knee when full fwd in the seat. one question - does this switch replace a keyed ignition completely? I imagine it does and would prefer only having 1 key for the baggage cockpit doors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Everything checks out as far as electrical and fuel. I said it seems to have gotten worse over time but that may have been a result of my diverging from normal starting ops in my search to find the magic start sequence. Today i primed it for 6 seconds and began spinning it - after about 5 - 8 seconds of cranking, it started popping on a cylinder or two. I continued cranking for another 20 or so seconds and when i couldn't stand the abuse to my starter anymore I let go of the key amd as soon as i did it fired up. This has happened several times since ownership and today i remembered a squawk in the pre-buy that there was an issue w the ignition switch thay caused this very issue. Im going to touch base w the mooney svc center that did the prebuy to see if they recall the remedy during the prebuy. After it started today I flew it for 2 hrs., stopped for fuel and left the cowl flaps closed, oat was in low to mid 60's. At restart I didn't prime at all, just pushed the throttle in to full open w no elect power on (boost didnt activate) and then set it at about 1/2" open - it fired right up. I will continue to use the same procedures i did today and at the same time try to get an explanation on why it fires up cold only after you let go of the key. Ill update as i find, or if i find a solution. Anyone w similar experience or more knowledge than me on this please add your 2 cents. Hope you all have a Merry CHRISTmas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

fuel pressure is good and stabilizes around 40psi very quickly on boost(1-2 seconds). plugs are fine wires and exhibit no misses on mag checks - dame for mags. anyone have feedback on electronic ignition on the bravo. thinking that may be next step regardless, as im not a big fan of using 1940's technology w alot of moving parts - at least w one electronic ignition "magneto" there may be a little more assurance that timing won't drift w wear. if anyone is using an electronic mag can you tell me if yiu can replace the mag w the impulse coupling or is it the other that gets swapped out?

been having issues w the bravo starts lately. i used to prime for about 8 seconds and it would fire after several rotations on full rich, 1/2 -1" throttle. it seems to have been getting consistently worse over time. today i tried the j starting tip i read here - full rich, open fuel servo and prime for 20 seconds. it wouldnt fire even after waiting several min (10) for fuel to eveaporate. i got out and noticed a rather large puddle of fuel under sniffle hoses - so i pished it back and rocked it back and forth to try to get more fuel out of the intake belly. i got a pretty steady trickle for about 1.5 min while rocking.(like an 80 year old w a prostate issue). tried again w mix shut and fuel servo 1/2 way in and still nada. ended up pushing back in the hangar w a dead #2 and low #1 battery. obviously the texhnique didnt work. ive tried heavy prime rich and lean, open closed throttle , no prime same way, a little prime etc etx. im thinking ive got mag issues but just had them redone less than 200 hrs ago. oat was 38°F and engine was warmed via block heater since flying it yesterday. yesterdays start was best in a long time w 15 seconds of prime, mix rich and throttle 1/4". stopped and got fuel after an hr of flying and hard started again almost leaving me stranded in the poconos. any input, suggestions, tried and true bravo start routines are greatly appreciated. fyi- on pre-buy the key switch was fixed as it would only fire after you left off the start position. it seems to still do that intermittently, but yesterday after the fuel stop it finaly started by popping intermittently until it got through all the fuel - key was in start position the entire time

thank you sir. now everyone will have the benefit of my mindless dribble if i chime in on a topic

anyone know how to solve the following. while on the forum w iphone if i try to respond to a topic tje keyboard doesnt pop up. i used to be able to click on "respond to topic" and type any input in the space provided. any help is appreciated.

thank you Lance. I'll contact globe and send it off for rebuild. Great forum - always impressed.

anybody have am extra defroster motor for a bravo, or know where to source one?

anybody have am extra defroster motor for a bravo, or know where to source one?

thank you very much gentlemen

anyone have an idea of where to get a set of plug wires for the AF1B? ac spruce is out of stock for complete harness

not sure i agree w you on that one - when i'm hand flying in a steady crab due to winds off of one side i have to maintain continual aileron into the wind, which increases if i'm wing heavy opposite wing. ball is centered because the ac is trimmed w rudder and aileron for the wind. i feel like i'm explaining something too much that i don't care whether people agree with or not - when you take your aircraft in for ap work because the clutches are slipping because you've flown it too long w the ap compensating too much for out of balance situations maybe it'll make sense.

if you are wing heavy on one side the aircraft will tend to want to turn in that direction. i often fly close to gross and heavily weighted on one side due to passengers and or fuel (long range tanks) - i had to have my ap clutches adjusted due to slippage from it trying to maintain true course in the above situation. if you maintain that fuel and/or cabin loading plays no part in this situation, give it a try. load up heavy on one side (fuel and cabin) and give it a go.

i'll have to tell my auto pilot that wind doesn't have any effect on the aircraft. When you're taking 30-40 knots off the left side heading north at 16000' and your AP is steering into the wind to keep true course corrected it's easier on the clutches to keep the weight into the wind. Unless i'm flying a hang glider i usually have a ground reference i'm using - it's most times the destination.

i've got a comanche that i'll run the 15 gal aux tanks dry on longer trips, but i usually keep splash in whatever main i select after the aux tanks are dry- this also depends on how high or cold i'm flying. i don't run tanks dry when OAT is below 30 to 40° F. I ran the bravo dry on a tank once and it took longer than i expected to regain power, so o don't run them dry. it also runs a little hotter so i try to avoid anything that would cause quick decreases in cht's - shock cooling. on switching tanks - i always burn the opposite tank that's into the wind in the bravo until about 1/4 to 1/2 full depending on wind to help the AP out a little. once both tanks are 1/2 or less i'll burn the leeward tank to about 5 gallons then switch to the upwind tank. had a tank run dry once in the comanche on final into va kpvg at about 500 agl - had the whole family aboard. i always fly higher and faster patterns so we still would have made it w/o power, but it woke me up. a great pilot once told me the cheapest insurance you can get is fuel, altitude, and airspeed.

when support of an individual, or cause, reduces or eliminates one's ability or desire to think critically - we all lose.

i believe we have a brand new one still in the box - i'll check tomorrow

if or when the valve were to go missing it would be replaced w a brass plug. not concerned about backfires as i always spin the prop to get oil pressure before introducing fuel. i wouldn't consider and elbow as that would create an intake leak under both positive and negative pressure. the problem w a bad sniffle valve on a turbo is that you get a right side nose gear door that is fuel stained every time you fly. sniffle valves do go bad - this is the type w the phenolic wafer between 2 lightweight springs. luckily the great guys at Henry Weber at LNS tested out a spare off of an intercooler i had, found it to be good, and are sending the $500 unit back.

thanks for the input everyone - i'm thinking ours may go missing at some point