redbaron1982

As I read this post, two thoughts came to my mind: Why would a relative large company like Lasar use ChatGPT (or a similar LLM) to craft the post? Don't they have people that can write a genuine letter to its customers? You can tell that this was generated by AI because of the "—" or the " instead of the ”. When I had the corrosion issue on my first annual inspection, Maxwell ordered a new aft stub spar from Mooney. What Maxwell charged me for the spar was ~4.6k, and labor was ~20k. I assume that Maxwell adds a markup to the parts, so most likely Mooney price was lower. It surprised me how "cheap" the part was, even more considering that it was backorderd and Mooney had to manufacture a new one. Talking with Patty from Mooney I know that they did a batch and they had a few bad parts that they had to scrap. So I'm quite sure the spar was priced below cost.

I wonder if an "advisory" FADEC would be a first easy step based on NORSEE, monitoring all variables (rpm, crankshaft position, knocking sensor, cht, eht, fuel flow, mp, etc) and provide, for the current power requirement, ideal FF, RPM, MP. It would be up to the pilot to move the knobs, and for sure ignition advance would not be part of this... but maybe is a way to get the ball rolling...

Does anyone know what's the blend they are using? G100UL high aromatic has compar issues, 100R cannot get the 130 rich mon rating with just ETBE.

You're doing a great contribution to general aviation @mluvara My biggest concern with 100R is that it seems that Mr Braly is right about it not being able to achieve 100/130 (specifically the 130 rich mixture rating). I don't like how GAMI and specifically Mr Braly approach to all the documented compatibility issues, and how deceptive their are in regards of G100UL material compatibility issues, but I think in this case, sadly, he is right about 100R. I'm quite convinced at this point that there will be no "drop-in" replacement for 100LL.

Sorry to hear this. What part of the engine the first picture shows? I can't tell. I mean I do see the nut backed off, but I can tell where that is.

I wonder how many "active" consumers are vs one or two times consumers. I haven't heard anyone using it on a regular basis.

Aren't all airliners wet wing designs? Are those flawed designs as well?

Not a Mooney, but quite concerning. I hope there is a formal investigation and probable cause.

So by your logic, if I sell you a permit to build on land I don't actually own, and you later discover you can't build anything there, there's no damage? Nothing broke, yet you still paid for something you can't use. That's the same situation here. Damage isn't limited to something physically breaking. Financial harm, like paying for a right you can't meaningfully exercise, is also damage. In this case, the issue isn't whether the STC exists. It's that GAMI sold approval for a product that isn't available at scale, leaving buyers unable to use what they paid for. That is, by definition, financial damage.

That make sense. I always had a great experience with Mike as well as his team at Savvy. But it was kind of puzzling to me why he (or Savvy) had said anything. We know GAMI does not allow anyone involved in the process to disclose any information publicly.

If the engine is not producing power, but the prop is spinning, a prop strike calls for a teardown too? I guess so because of the transversal forces and sudden stop (high acceleration = high forces)

In my case, I've let the small leak from the sump drain build up a stain for several months, you could even feel a bump due to the heavy accumulation of blue pigments. WD40 removed all. I don't know what your specific case is and if this method would work.

Be careful with MEK, is very agressive. I heard people also use 100LL, yeah, kind of fight fire with fire. The logic behind using 100LL is that the stain comes from the fuel evaporating and leaving behind the dye. So with fuel you could remove the dye and as long as you remove the 100LL with a rag, it should be good.

I guess it depends whether you're referring to 100LL or G100UL. Assuming that you use 100LL, then in my experience, stains are super easy to remove. I only got stains in a very small leak I have on one of my sump drain, it get heavily stained in blue. Usually I take it out with some WD40, not sure if it is the best, but it works for me. As it is on the lower part of the wing, it is not easy to see if there is a very faint staining left behind, for what I can tell, there is not.

So, I think, although there is not consensus on the why, that having the prop full back gives better glide distance. Now, what about the throttle? Technically full forward would reduce the energy required for the cylinders to pull air in, and should extend the glide slope.