Fritz1

Oasis in Wilmar MN is the closest MSC that I can think of, they might be able to figure this out, you know your airplane, instead of getting a ferry pilot you might think about getting 5h in another M20 instead, food for thought, others will chime in

pic would be helpful

brakes on both sides, pilot side and passenger side

Thank you everybody, yes my plug is solid, no hole, think airplane came with it SN 280, do not think it got swapped while I owned the plane, will bleed the brakes one more time over the holiday, got 3 or 4 qts 5606, two bleeder pots, all kinds of lines and fittings, bleed back and forth, one pot at the wheel caliper one pot at the reservoir, max 35 psi, the masters are parker hannifin 24D, I have a set of spares, will open one of them to understand the piston mechanism, think there is a check valve in the piston since the piston does not move over the supply port, fittings are tilted sideways, that is part of the problem, will take the back of the masters off to tilt fittings up and then pump by hand, think this is the fourth time I am doing this, somewhat determined to get it right now

thank you, that is what I thought, this may be part of the reason why my brakes are mushy, my plug with the vent hole must have gone under and been replaced with a non-vented plug at some point in time, will either buy reservoir plug with hole or drill small hole into existing plug,

interesting, but brake linings are brand new, replaced in spring of last year, think this is the fourth time I am bleeding brakes, resealed the pilot masters, no fluid leaking anywhere

bleeding brakes on the Bravo one more time, either did not get all the air out or air is getting in somewhere, pilot masters got rather soft again, think air bubbles still lodged in the piston assemblies, in particular in the check valves, will take rear of masters loose and drop the rear down and turn fittings up while bleeding from the wheel calipers, tap the masters to shake any bubbles loose, here is my question: the plug of my brake fluid reservoir in the tail cone does not have a vent hole and I am wondering if this might be part of the problem, air might just be creeping through the master cylinder seals during a descent augmenting any residual bubbles in system, soo, is there any reason why the brake fluid reservoir plug would not have a vent hole???

The roll servo clutch is adjustable and I think separate from the servo, this is how it was in a KFC225 pitch servo that I replace last summer, servo comes out easily with two bolts, bridle cable is wound around drum that includes the clutch, not so easy to get out, the clutch has a friction plate and the release torque is adjustable at a center bolt, think you need a King tool to lock the drum and then a small torque wrench to check the release torque, my clutch was fine, I left it in the tail cone and the pitch servo was replaced with an overhaul exchange unit from Mid Continent, bottom line, checking the servo clutch, removing it and resetting or repairing it is best done by an avionics shop that works on King equipment

replaced light switch on baggage door frame on Sat, took about 3h, old switch was worn out mechanically and would not reset reliably any more , pivot axle of plastic toggle had disengaged from plastic housing, lasted more than 20 years...

It pays to shop around for the RG24-15, prices vary by up to $100

Good idea, will give that a try before replacing switch on Sat, think that something made from plastic is worn out though

one of the first things to do if really interested is to get the complete FAA file, you can buy it from aerospace reports in Oklahoma for about $100, all 337s, previous owners, liens, does not tell you the amount, but if there is one, some airplanes offered for sale are upside down on a loan, the bank will not let the airplane go below that loan amount, the seller may or may not tell you what that loan amount is, upside down airplanes are sold by the bank to a broker that has a deal with the bank if and when the owner defaults on the loan, you cannot buy them from the bank, takes one phone call to the seller to figure this out, happened to me once spent lots of time on inspection only to find out that loan exceeded the amount that I was ready to pay and the owner had noting to kick in to make up for the difference

Nice!

the avionics and the interior make this airplane unusual, Jimmy Garrison at GMAXAmerican is the best person to determine value, others will chime in regarding a pre purchase inspection in Kentucky

think what you want is a pre-purchase inspection, Weber in Lancaster PA and C&W in Caldwell NJ are knowledgeable service centers

Lance, really appreciate your input, ordered two of the Eaton 1501-11E so I will never need the second one. -Fritz

Lance, timer box is fine, goes off after about 10 min, just need the little black single throw switch on left side of baggage door opening, that switch is sticky and does not reset reliably anymore, probably $7 commercial item to replace 9240-0 switch. -Fritz

no joy on 940138-501, just need the flip switch, not the timer box, small rectangular plastic switch 9240-0 about 3/4" x 3/8" cutout, needs to carry 1A, probably rated 5A

my baggage light switch in the Bravo has been sticky for a while and one of these days I will forget to turn it off, it should turn off by itself, the part # in the IPC is 9240-0 which I am not able to locate, rectangular single throw switch, you push it to energize the timer box and it resets so timer box does not get any more power, what is a current replacement part # for this switch?

Drain tanks completely by removing quick drains, flush each with a gal or two of avgas, filter out all debris, refill with avgas and then see what happens, I have owned two Mooneys, current one going on 6 years on a complete reseal, have not seen that much debris in any of my tanks, however, the pickup screens and the screen in the gascolator are designed to handle this amount and much more

simplest way to raise nose if no jack available is engine hoist on engine, then move nose wheel and see what wobbles, there is vertical #10 bolt in the idler bushing in the linkage on the right side of the wheel well, make sure lock nut on bottom is tight, eventually replaced that bolt and drilled that bolt for a cotter pin and used a castellation nut since new lock nut keep getting loose, think the steering horn washers come only in two or three sizes, best way to really get it tight is to have a standard washer machined down, next comes replacing the Heim joints if they are worn

Looking good!

Jesus!

hmm, never had this problem, static ports are on fuselage sides aft of battery panels, I typically test the TKS system on the ground to see the drip pattern and identify dead spots, there maybe something else that is going on, make sure that static drain on bottom of fuse really closes, when in doubt replace static lines in the tail cone to get rid of any residual fluid, maybe TKS fluid gets into the connections of the old lines at the fittings

yes, see it now, the factory probe is green, probe marked red is unusual, have never seen anything like it, thought it might have been an early Bravo engine, probably best to shut that probe down and put new probe into factory location, think the only probe available with the thread is made by Alcor, installed one about a year ago, KS probe was not available at that time, Alcor probe held up well, about 100h on it, no drift from new so far