Fritz1

Yes, good point

dynamic balancing will most likely take care of the vibrations, I had mine balanced at 2300 rpm, still runs smoother at 2400 rpm, something about the resonance frequency of the entire system, not an exact science, you may get another result the next day and may need 2 or 3 sessions to get it really smooth, the Lord mounts are installed with a specific torque, re-torquing them probably can't hurt, the engine mount is bolted to the fuselage with four bolts, think 1/4", checking tightness of these bolts probably can't hurt either, engines sound and feel different over open water or mountain ranges when you are out of gliding range of any airport, your A&P can check blade tracking of the prop and feel if the blades have excessive play, if the A&P does not know how to do this, fly the airplane to a prop shop and see what they say, they will typically do a re-seal up to 700h and thereafter recommend an overhaul

The wrinkled peeling paint looks different from any fuel leak that I have seen, the million $ question is whether the G100UL actually ate the sealant or whether there was a leak before and the G100UL unlike the 100LL just eats the paint now, either way this is highly interesting

Tough call, there are about 3 shops in the US that do this well, they are typically booked 9-12 months out and do a good job, airplane sits in the shop 2-3 weeks and you have to get it there, sooo, how many hours is the do it yourself job going to take, what are these hours going to cost you versus paying somebody that does 50 airplanes per year. Every job has a learning curve. My tanks were done by Weep no more 5 years ago and they don't leak. Flew the bird to Wilmar, picked it up about 2 weeks later. Oasis is an excellent Mooney shop, they can fix other stuff while the bird sits there. No regrets.

Thanks, that is what I was hoping for, got 6 cases of XC 20/W50 in my hangar, my AP/IA is an old salt, ran a fleet of Robinson helicopters with Lycoming engines for a while and says he was reaming exhaust valve guides unless using the W100plus, maybe OWT and he never really tried the XC, I will keep using it because it really reduced my oil consumption by at least 30%

I switched from Shell W100 plus to Phillips XC and saw a significant reduction in oil consumption and less plug fouling, my AP/IA is suspicious that the XC might be coking up the exhaust valve guides, and swears by the W100 plus. I am undecided, maybe run the 100plus in summer and the Phillips in winter. If the valve guide story were true, oil consumption should go back up slowly again with the Shell since the carbon in the valve guides slowly wears off. Thoughts?

J models, especially late ones tend to have the highest resale value as a percentage of ex factory sales price, have seen them listed at $250k, however as stated succinctly above doing your own upgrades like a lay away purchase is an expensive and time consuming endeavor, especially avionics are typically worth 30 cents on the dollar when the plane gets sold thereafter, soo finding a plane that is close to what you want is less expensive midterm, good airplanes come for sale and they typically get snapped up within a week or two, figure out what you want and get ready to pounce with purchase amount or financing ready, prepurchase technician lined up and insurance lined up

Learn as much as you can from reading for sale ads and logbooks, Jimmy Garrison is a good resource, contact Savvy, see what they have to offer, establish an upgrade and repair budget on top of the purchase price, on a 25 year old airplane this can be another 20% to 50% of the purchase price to be spent within 2 years, start looking for a hangar, enjoy the ride, the journey is the destination

check as stated by 47U, if SOS dead think about a slick start booster, 3-4 times the bang of SOS, I had a dead SOS on my G-model once upon a time, replaced slick start, fired within one blade cold or hot

Most likely boost pump shaft o ring, a lot of overhaulers have them in stock, my boost pump started leaking a bit one day last summer and seized at the next start the next day, fortunately in front of my own hangar, no start, my A&P said these pumps are good for about 2000h, mine had 1850h, took about 3h to replace

yep, it is that time of the year, if running an entire tank on high through the system on the ground while squeezing a copious amount of fluid into the non-flowing panel does not fix it a purging pot is required, might be best to contact CAV aerospace to find a shop that has one, nothing but a brake bleeding pot hoked up tho that particular panel, but have to find a panel connector, if you are anywhere close to CAV aerospace, let's say within non stop range the simplest way to fix this might just be going there and let them check out the entire system, most likely the membrane in this panel is just dried out and you need to run and squeeze in lots of fluid to make that panel flow again, then running each pump for 5 min on the ground on high will keep the membrane moist and all panels will kick in with 3 min when you need them

you might want to write letters to eligible J owners, the serial numbers of all Mooneys ever built can be found on the web, then you can look the owners up on the FAA website, 100 letters typically trigger one response, I get letters like that from brokers a couple of times per year. A letter from a private buyer is viewed differently and might nudge an owner to respond who is just thinking about it, I keep fingers crossed

parts are generally available in the US, it may take some resourcefulness calling the major service centers and also salvage places, there are parts that are notoriously unavailable, e.g. the no back spring for the gear actuator, arguable whether a large quantity of those had to be replaced and some turbo exhaust clamps, a general problem and not just a Mooney problem, soo there are airplanes where parts are more readily available, the question then becomes what constitutes the allure of a Mooney to you, one way to find out, just fly one, if you are hooked you may be ready to go the extra mile to source the parts

all good calls, discovery process, reading for sale ads and logbooks for a while does not cost anything and gives you a wealth of information, most important thing is to find out what you really want, this may change during the discovery and the whole process may take a couple of months, enjoy the journey!

wow, sounds like you got it under control now, I got my cowl off and will give the turbo a good wiggle and will see how it spins, your video was scary, 1650 dF is still a tad high for TIT and the probes tend to read up to 100 dF low before they fail completely, might be a good idea to test the probe while the turbo is out, I had a KS probe and that failed within 300h, got about 80h on the Alkor now and that still looks good, think going above 1600 dF really burns these probes up fast