Fritz1

The Bravo has an automatic wastegate, mine tended to underboost at high IAT and overboost at low IAT, hence the IAT gauge which allows to fine tune the takeoff boost, i.e. back off manually at low IAT, density controller is now set to produce about 37" at 150 dF IAT which is needed for a hot and high takeoff

IAT probe wires to an EDM700 monitor and any other monitor

Installing IAT gauge will help you verify what the density controller does, intake plenum is pre-drilled and tapped, take plug out, install probe

These have gotten reasonably inexpensive, think around $1000 at Spruce, thought about getting one, then I found out a hangar neighbor had one, he did a perfect job, good luck hunting, when in doubt just buy a new one, they are not $10,000 units any more.

I am based in KFCI, about 15 miles southwest of Richmond, 5500 ft, ILS, about 1h drive from Williamsburg, wait for T-hangar is about 1 year, Petersburg KPTB is a little closer to Williamsburg, then there is Hampton Roads executive, Franklin, lots of choices. My house and also my office are about 15 min from airport, feels about right. I have lived here for 30 years, reasonably familiar with the area, PM me if you want to talk

Really looks like it was on fire before it hit the ground, if not, AI failure possible culprit, or pitot heat failure, needlees to say I am not a Lear driver, truth may never come out, impact at steep angle high speed full of fuel, total destruction

For the density controller to work correctly you need about 180 dF oil temp, I turn the boost pump on manually when I enter the runway just in case the throttle switch fails, line up, check cowl flaps open, push mixture rich, if enough runway slowly turn in boost, watch RPM rise to 2575, check oil pressure, check fuel flow 29-30, check boost, minimum 35, maximum 37" as a function of induction air temperature, which is typically between 90 and 150 dF, watch airspeed, rotate between 70 and 75 kt depending on weight, positive rate, no runway remaining gear up, flaps up check boost below 37 with intercooler full flow, 1000 ft reduce power 34" 2400, boost pump off, fuel flow around 23, lean for 1580 TIT, cruise climb about 120KT, keep CHTs below 400 dF. Depending on weight the Bravo will climb at around 600 fpm through 18000 ft, when altitude captured close cowl flaps, let speed build up, reduce boost to 30", reduce rpm to 2300, fuel flow about 18.5 gph, produces about 1580 TIT, 350-380 CHT and about 185 KT TAS in my TKS Bravo, others may be 5KT faster, power is about 78%, reducing power I take out 2" per minute, keep TIT between 1550 and 1580, CHT reduction not more than 15 dF per minute, Lycoming says 50 dF per minute is permississible, descent 750 fpm, don't go below 18" at that descent rate, engine starts driving propeller and rings may start fluttering, with gear down power can go below 18", don't push mixture rich for landing, just fouls plugs, keep mixture where you had it during descent

As stated before your cigarette lighter may be 12V, you have two 24V batteries, not sure if you can backfeed though the step down transformer, standard solution is an Anderson connector on each battery, if no tks door, Anderson connectors are typically mounted on hat rack or on left cabin panel in luggage compartment, think battery minder sells Anderson connector kit with fuse

Test fly all of them, talk to the owners, get an idea for an annual operating budget, the journey is the destination!

there is an idler arm in the nose gear steering mechanism, that arm pivots on a #10 bolt, that bolt may be loose, if so tightening it will take some of the slop out, thread locking compound on that bolt thread cannot hurt, bolt is vertical, your A&P will know where to find it, as stated before, jack it up, wiggle it in all directions and see and feel what moves

looks like an awesome paint job, Hawk aircraft in Florida does a fair amount of Mooney work and did the Eagle of a friend of mine with good results, he typically replaces windows with a paint job, in order to have a flawless match you may have to paint the non-white color on the top cowl, he is typically boked 9-12 months out but may be able to squeeze a side job in

That is aggravating, simplest stuff cannot be found, call Maxwell, he may know something, after that maybe find generic switch that carries the amperage, have engraved and fill the engraved letters with black epoxy, sand and clear coat

Pic might help

CAV aerospace about $400

baffles are the easiest fix on the Bravo, the right rubber material, a couple of pop rivets and RTV, the smallest leak and associated loss of ram air makes a big difference, there are typically big gaps in the factory baffling around the starter and around the alternators, fine wire plugs also appear to go well in the Bravo engine, I daresay they dropped the TIT by 15 degrees in my engine, feels like more complete combustion in the cylinder and less post-combustion in the exhaust