Fritz1

excellent job getting the bird down, the previous threads have covered the mechanicals, in order to regain confidence in the bird the best thing for you to do is to go over every possible source of failure together with your mechanic, check and/or retorque all the lines and fittings, check and/or overhaul fuel servo. Thereafter slowly reacquaint yourself with the airplane, ground run, traffic patterns, widen the circle. You may never find out what really happened, ice may have formed somewhere in the fuel system at least contributing to the event. No engine runs as well as the one you have fixed yourself. Fly safe!

I do the same, put old Jepp binder with POH in front of fuel tank selector to deflect airflow from vent up, no passengers in rear seats, plenty warm in cruise for pilot and copilot down to -30dF ambient, even open headliner cold air vents a tad sometimes, fly 100 dF ROP,

Anderson plug on left side of baggage compartment hard wired to #1 battery with fuse to run B-cool icebox, that thing is awesome, pre-cool in hangar, keep running while pushing airplane out, get into cool airplane, start engine on #2 battery, keep running B-cool during taxi and climb, runs about 1h when filled large ice blocks, turn back on for landing and taxi

factory flap gap seals are the simplest thing to do, they have a small gap unlike the lasar seals, flap hinge covers get knocked off, gain of 1-2 kt cruise, and maybe 100 ft climb, call Lasar or your favorite MSC and ask for factory flap gap seals, to my best recollection the long wingtips on were required to make the stall speed of 61 kt with the flap gap seals, not sure if the regular Acclaim has those long wingtips

make sure none of the cold air hoses are leaking on the right side, none of the WEMAC valves are leaking, no cold air getting in through cabin floor, heat valve in front of firewall opens completely, the heat valve in the control box in the passenger footwell has bleed holes in the the butterfly, I closed those, cozy cabin down to -30F ambient in cruise, climb different story airflow insufficient, need all heat for defrost, the real critical part in really cold conditions is taxi, even with full defrost blower windshield starts icing up internally, I run alien heater in the cabin in the hangar and keep clean microfiber cloth handy to wipe off frost internally, once airborne defrost blower has plenty power and heat, I typically climb on full defrost and slowly switch to cabin heat during the climb, in cruise no defrost required everything she got goes into cabin heat, all air vents closed, still, fur lined boots and warm coat help

I had a similar leak in my Bravo, very slow, right at the gauge, found with water throwing bubbles, tightening the fitting just at tad fixed the leak, no leak since and that was 3 or 4 years ago, have an O2 tank on a cart in my hangar which I treat with great respect, annual rental costs about as much as refilling the tank, use one or two tanks per year, swap them when they are down to 700 psi, main reason for having tank is that FBO usually bent my O2 door, financially owning the tank and the equipment is a wash at best at the slow rate that I am using tanks

minor leak that nobody noticed, easy to fix, white paint easy to blend, work it out with the paint shop, they overlooked the leak so the paint is on their dime, the leak is on your dime unless they want to take responsibility because they overlooked it, chances are remote that this leak was caused by paint stripper

I am with Don, ROP, 30" 2300, about 18.5 gph, about 78% power, Gamis .3 spread, Tempest fine wires, my engine just does not appear to like LOP, no intake or exhaust leaks, think you can do max 65% power LOP, going higher than 65% temps will go through the limits, semi religious question maybe, smarter people will find good reasons either way

Matterhorn White is rather forgiving, however as stated before all depends where the painted surface is and how large it is, noting wrong with giving a small spot a try, if it looks worse than before you can still take it to a shop, cowls and anything that you can remove is easy because you can take it to an auto paint shop with climate control and they will most likely do a good job, bottom line, try a small spot with the Matterhorn White, see how it turns out, cover the rest of the airplane well

Got it, exhaust is the weakest part in Bravo engine, therefore 1580 dF is a good number for max TIT

looks like crack in turbo transition, was that visible with the bare eye or only visible with soap water throwing bubbles?

when reapplied correctly with CS3204 should last "forever", think the factory used some greenish epoxi and that stuff tends to get brittle after about 20 years, and absolutely a little wiggle during preflight or at least at every oil change can't hurt

get part # from IPC and google part #, they are quite pricy new, think in the range of $2-$3k, make sure to mount at the exact spot, residual glue is good indicator, use CS3204 tank sealant to attach new one, clean panel thoroughly with appropriate solvent, alcohol works well, you also need some triangular filler foam to distribute fluid in stall strip, CAV aerospace has that foam

as stated the service manual has all the info, if memory serves me right CS3204 is used for the access panels and the screw in the wingwalk, this is as far as I have taken it, everything beyond that is best done by somebody who reseals tanks for a living, to my best knowledge there are 3 companies that strip and reseal tanks, weep no more, wet wingologist and a company in Houston, there are quite a few shops that are perfectly capable of patching a tank, however if the sealant is more than 20 years old strip and reseals typically is the only procedure that produces a reliable result, typically 7 year warranty after strip and reseal

make sure CHT thermocouples read the same when cold, when in doubt swap around, clean thermocouple connectors, difference can be caused by a lot of factors including respective cylinders still breaking in