Fritz1

Second Brian Kendrick, known him for almost 30 years, he ran the factory service center for a while and also was a company test pilot, he can test fly Mooneys to trouble shoot what few shops can do, did prepurchase on my airplane and 3 annuals thereafter, he test flew the airplane, figured stall warning was not coming on because mounted too low from factory, had to redrill TKS panel for new rivnuts to move stall warning up, he will find stuff that other people don't, airplane had 190h on factory reman, still spent at least $50k on repairs not counting upgrades in the first two years, biggest line item tanks, think 11k at the time, Brian replaced stuff in a preventive manner like flap limit switches because he knew they were going to fail rather sooner than later, re-glued TKS stall triggers because he knew they were about to come off soon, doing an annual with him and dropping the bird off for let's say at least 4 weeks will make most of your trouble go away, whatever he does not have time to fix he will explain to you so you can get it done locally

As stated supra, the FIKI stall warner and the panel are different, I would not want to cut and drill into a titanium TKS panel, the FIKI stall warner is a shaky contraption

Crudest way to check fuel flow is take injectors out stick each into measuring cup, run boost pump with full throttle mixture rich for let's say 1 min and compare cups, if this does not show anything do lean test at 24" record fuel flow for each cylinder egt to peak, make sure mags are wired correctly, one mag fires bottom plugs on one side, top plugs on the other side, persistence wil get you a perfect running engine

second the mouse milk, causes reproductive harm in California though, preheating helps a lot, Reiff heater gets engine to 120 dF, running 1500W cabin heater in hangar prevents windows from freezing over during taxi, Phillips XC 20W50 appears to do well in the Bravo engine

Don is probably your best bet, end of Feb is just around the corner, to work correctly the controllers need about 180 dF oil temp, are you sure it is not just the gauge that is erratic? my density controller was not kicking in enough boost at high IAT and overboosting at low IAT, instead of trying to fix it I installed an IAT probe that feeds to the EDM700. There is a table in the service manual, typically you want at least 35" at low temp and at the most 37" at high ambient temp, the IAT probe is easy to install, intake plenum has a thread for it, with that probe you can fine tune takeoff power boost, I have never seen boost over 37" in my engine though, that is how I have set my density controller after a fair amount of tweaking

ball swivels in instrument panel

Check the ball that swivels in the instrument with the steering joke shaft, make sure it moves freely and does not wedge the shaft in any position, clean as needed, trim to landing position, move the elevator by hand about the position where it is during landing, it should drop under its own weight and not bind in any position, trace the elevator linkage from the elevator to the joke, see if anything is binding or broken, lube everything according to service manual, do not lube the ball or the joke shaft, just catches dirt

patched my wing walk with Randolph grit brush on material and then spray painted with truck bed liner stuff from auto store to have uniform surface color

as stated supra, install new condenser and see what happens, during COVID I had two dud mag overhauls from QAA, may have been a coincidence, use Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma now with good success

Second Oasis in Wilmar

concur, the Bravo engine also appears to like lower RPM, I am running 30 " 2300 and TIT is about 15 dF lower for the same TAS and fuel flow compared to 29" 2400, feels like more complete combustion in the cylinder, the Bravo exhaust and intake are not well tuned, the slower it runs, the better, minimum is 2200 RPM.

as stated before, jack it up move the nose wheel left and right to see where the slop is, a lot of times the slop is in the idler bushing, #10 bolt that needs to be tightened or replaced, put on thread locking compound so it does not come loose again easily.

Yes, electric joke elevator trim goes through the autopilot and is disabled when autopilot is un-installed, aircraft is legal to fly when correctly placarded

The POH only gives cruise figures for peak TIT power settings which produce excessive CHT and TIT, I typically cruise at 30" 2300, about 78% power, 18.5 gph, 100 dF rich on 1st cylinder to peak which produces about 176 KT TAS at 12,000 ft, my aircraft has TKS, others may be 3-5 KT faster, going max cruise power 34" 2400, about 90% power typically increases cruise by 11-12 KT, flow goes to about 21.5 gph to keep TIT below 1580 dF, In a nutshell, the POH performance figures not realistic, engine durability requires higher fuel flows, to keep CHT below 480 and TIT below 1580, the sweet spot of the Bravo is around it's critical altitude of around 21000 ft, 188 KT TAS, 18.5-19 gph 78% power, she will reach 200 KT when pushed to max cruise power, about 22 gph, think when pushed to the limit at 25,000 ft the Bravo will reach 215 KT

think the problem with the combo mag is the internal timing is set by two set of contacts and the external timing can only be set by rotating the single housing, so the contacts must be set exactly with the same correct gap for both mags to fire at the same time which is apparently difficult, but that is hearsay, I have never timed a combo mag myself, timing two mags with two housings is much easier, not so sensitive, you can rotate each housing individually to get the mags fire at exactly the same angle BTC, I use a metal pointer clamped to the one housing half in the separation plane so that it almost touches the flywheel, your can get the timing within less than .25 degrees with a good old buzzer, I put marks on painters tape on the mags to remember which way to turn for more or less advance