RangerM20

I did one of these on my C model. I located a nutplate with the screw, drilled from the bottom up, countersunk the hole through both of the layers, then riveted it in. I didn't take anything apart.

Unfortunately, this is an issue with a lot of Continental engines. When I was in the Air Force, I was a recip engine mechanic on Cessna O-2's, which had a Continental IO-360, and these would occasionally quit on landing. These engines have a two-circuit fuel pump, and were very finicky. Both high rpm and idle fuel circuits were separate, and had to be constantly adjusted. The plane had a spring-loaded position to the high pressure electric boost pump, and several pilots said if they gave that a shot, the engine would come back to life. Cessna - and Continental, for that matter - always claimed that they never heard of any problems of this kind.

If it is hard to stow, it could be that the nose tire is striking the inner wheel well. There is an adjustment for this. If it is doing this during the entire travel, it could be bent retraction tubes, or seized bushings.

Yeah, two years ago I flew a Cessna 172 from Buenos Aires up to Atlanta, and Republic refused to write policy for the trip - would not even consider it.

I'm at LZU, an A&P/IA and know Mooney.

It's a lot harder than it used to be. You'll have to fill out the application for certification, under "special flight permit", and have the local FSDO approve it. Or you can employ a DAR (Designated Airworthiness Representative). The difference is that the FSDO is free, while the DAR will charge a fee. The link that EricJ provided is a good one to follow, as it goes through the process step by step. Of course, if the flight is made before October 31, you won't need to do anything, as the annual is still in effect.

Check the openings in the wheel wells - they should have a Naugahyde boot (or something similar) and be taped or glued to the skin.

There should be a pitot line drain in the bottom of the forward left wing root. A static drain at the bottom left of the rear empennage entry, as you are looking in to it.

What you have to do is get a LONG piece of tubing to cover the pitot tube, then reduce it down to where you can fit a length of surgical tubing on the end through the storm window. Put the aircraft on jacks, switch power on, select the gear to UP, then roll the tubing until the gear comes up and note the reading. If it never comes up, then remove the glareshield, and check the wires and connections. The Beechcraft Duchess uses this same system, and perhaps the same sensor.

For the SB 208, you can inspect the bottom of the fuselage tubes (where corrosion is most likely to be) with just the belly panels removed.

On most models with electric trim, there is a motor chain driving a sprocket on the trim shaft. On the bracket that holds the whole assembly, there is a bronze bearing supporting the trim shaft. If that bearing is not exactly in line with the shaft, it can be very difficult to move the trim wheel. There are several screws and nuts on the support assembly to move the support around to accomplish this. If nothing else works, you can loosen these up and move them around to where the trim is easy to move.

That isn't quite true. You can have a brand-new airplane with outstanding AD's on it. For example, back in the 70's, Cessna had exhaust failures on some of their big twins. Until a fix was designed, the current production was delivered with an AD for recurring inspections for the exhaust.

A jar of Damp-Rid. This is for the interior. Keep it in your baggage compartment.

Ok, it's worn. So, we're replacing the link, bolts and bushings. However, when we pull the NAS bolt(not the clevis bolt) out, it won't clear the airframe. Is there a way to get this bolt out without dropping the whole main gear assembly?

Thanks, I'll check that.