DJ67

I am in annual now and have one of these. But my gear is J-bar, so I would be the motor, and I don't recall any jamming while deploying the gear.

Did this one already sell?

It looks like you have the install manual. I have an operation manual for IDME-891 and it does refer to the upper right On/Off switch and "DME L.E.D. Display Dimmer Control". I have a IDME-895 connected to an NCS-812. I dropped out of flying for while after buying my M20F so I never got to try out all the features of this instrument, so I was shocked to learn about having MB and DME in the indicator. Looking for an Operation manual for it as well as the Install manual. Doug

Purty Bird! Easy on the eyes and nice panel too. I let my '67 M20F (same engine) sit too long and the cam (which is up in the air above the oil) got pitted. That requires a tear down. Mech says upwards of 10-15k to IRAN and you don't get to claim 0 SMOH when it's done, unless you put the rest of the new part$ in. Your pre-buy mech can pull one jug which is the only way to see 1/2 of the cam. Two jugs and you can see it all. Operation - 1. Obey the book on landing - too hot and the nose and mains will teeter-totter until the prop strikes. 2. I love the J-bar. Over the fence I like to reach for the yoke with my left hand and the J-bar with my right. If the right hand comes back empty, use it to shove in the throttle, go up, and figure out what's going on. CFI - FYI my insurance says "Make and Model" for the CFI. Doug

Well I had no problem getting the baffle off of #3 so he agreed to pull #2 and #3. He was hoping to pull jugs from the same side. Now I understand why, because the wrist pins are easier to remove. Anyway, he pulled #3 and turned out we didn't need to pull #2. I'll start a new thread about pitting on the cam lobes. Ugggh.

I think you hit the nail on the head. I've been pondering that very question, and now you've up and answered it. Doug

Thanks for the picture, its a clear view that I wish I had before I started. As you say ... one piece. Somebody made this with the engine off and took a shortcut in that area. I'll talk to mech about cutting and splicing with a doubler when he gets back (he's gone to some sort of gathering in Wisconsin). It's my aircraft so I'm free to get it fixed up to conform to OEM. Actually, I wish he could cut out an area above the upper left mount that has multiple stop drilled cracks, and then rivet in a patch (or just make a whole new baffle). To get the baffle out, I think we may only need to move about 1/2 inch forward of the mounts to get enough clearance. Thanks again for the pic. Doug

I didn't realize I could do that. I'm normally on a PC so I'll look into that! Thanks, Doug

I have seen photos and diagrams that show pathways between fore and aft sections of the case. If the #2 jug removed and the hands-on inspection came out okay, I would accept a borescope snaked in for a visual of the aft lobes. If that looks good enough for the mechanic then I guess I would take his word for it, but if he was uncertain then I would pay him to pull the next jug and then we would know for sure. Then if it passes, I can quit worrying and go fly.

I updated the diagram. In my case it's all one piece of metal. It's not made to the drawing so there is no joint to separate the parts.

If it still looks good, I wouldn’t pull the rear just to look. I'm having that debate with myself all the time. My mech borescoped the cylinders and seeing no rust said "I'd just go fly it and check for metal in the oil filter every few hours." But what if I do that and it starts making metal? Could that damage the prop governor or anything else? Doug

I'll look closer next chance I get, but something discouraged me from trying to slide it down ... probably all sorts of accessories, and a vent pipe that hangs down like a barb. I think you are correct about everything else. In the diagram, part 25 is the one that's stopping me. It looks like it would have to be bent flat in order to move up past the inboard fins or out past larger outboard fins. I bet the OEM part had a detachable part 25, which is shown with three nut plates just above it. Mine is solid in that area, no nut plates, no overlap joint. So I'm betting that this baffle was hand made while the engine was off of the airframe. I thought about pulling #3 instead of #4 but I can see the same interference with part 15. It is a separate piece, but it's also riveted, and I would likely need a lot of WD40 to get those rivets off. Doug

1967 m20f, 200 horsepower Lycoming Airplane set unused too long so my mechanic needs to inspect the camshaft by pulling jugs 2&4. I have removed the cowling and attempting to remove the baffles. The baffle behind number 4 cylinder is wedged between the engine mount tubing framework and the number 4 jug. I can't see anymore pieces that I could disassemble and I can't find anything in the Mooney parts manual that says I should. Is there any trick to getting this baffle out short of unbolting the motor mounts and swinging the engine forward about an inch to allow that baffle plate to come out? Thanks, Doug

Well I got it back in. Had a wooden kitchen spoon, and the handle had the exact OD to burnish the valve housing in the yoke. So I feel like the corrosion is gone inside there now. The unit slides in okay then acts like it has a detent at the bottom. I can pull it with my finger and thumbnail, but it's really hard to get it started. Now that I look at the picture I posted before, with the PTT on the left, I think I can get a rubber band on the handle part and then slide it up onto the button when I want to be my own wing leveler. I might try it with the PTT cord under the rubber band. It would be cleaner to remove the PTT and put two rubber bands (2nd one is a spare), and then re-install the PTT.

I hadn't realized that the bottom of the assembly was a nut! I managed to get the whole thing out and cleaned up the corrosion that made it so hard to remove in the first place. Already fitted new o-rings and ready to see if it slides back in. I'm a tad concerned that the hole in the yoke is still corroded, so I'm planning a way to clean that too. Thanks for the tip. Doug