Ghostrider

Im gonna say, I was flying into Cameron park, CA (basically landing in a fish bowl) within a year or two of getting my Mooney.. i had just taken off a short time before taking a friend for a ride... Coming back to land I was too high and did a go around. Since as the OP said he basically needs the gear to slow down this is relevant. I too use the gear as my speed brake from 120mph to 100.. then I can add flaps... Well with the Go around I pulled the gear up but never got above 120.. I turning downwind to base and did one of my "redundant" gear checks and had an "oh Shit" moment because my gear was up and this was no longer a redundtant check... it was then that I realized a Go around was my most likely chance to forget. I have since made my on final montra change from "Airspeed, Runway, Airspeed Runway" to now be "Airspeed, Runway, Airspeed Runway, Gear down and locked as I yank the bar" then repeat... all the way down to over the fence..... I have had passengers ask why I keep yanking that bar... I said to make sure I have not forgot already.... and the yank is to make sure it has actually locked in... What I suspect the recent E may not have done.

Alex. My C model is a 68 and the 1968 and beyond had fixed cowl flaps.. Problem is they are not fixed wide open they try for a happy medium... With this new Cowl i am thinking we will have better cooling anyway and thus being able to fully close them might make a speed difference and might be needed to keep temps up high enough in cruise to prevent valve stem lead deposits... Right now as it is.. That is NOT a concern... lol I run plenty hot enough to prevent them

I bought it in Jan of 2008.

So I have a C model. 1968 I had been planning on converting to the E engine and Loprosti cowl. Still love that one.. but the price is just WAY high. If I went to your Gen 2 cowl with the C 180HP engine, what would be the amount of work cowl wise to switch to the E engine later when its time to overhaul. Mostly I am wondering if it is a different design or similar enough that with a few changes we would be good to go. Thanks Also any issues with the Power Flow Exhaust if I went with that? Thanks -Derek

I agree not the "it should not take 6to 10 pumps... 3cold and 1 to 2 warm.. if your not dripping fuel out the bottem of the air box after 10 then your acc pump is not working correct. I will say after repairing my shower of sparks every year (needed a new condenser) I talked the misses into letting me get the Slick Start.. that thing made sparks from my SP cable 2 inches to the engine block... like lightning.. that and a new battery and I start in 2 blades every time.

Is that a Power Flow Exhaust I see? Performance Review???

First Thank you for all the information and pointing out the Bus Voltage... I will look more closely at that. I will also go look at the plane after I get off work to really look at the lower area of the cowl. I have checked the seal but now I will look at holes in the lower area and around the oil cooler. If anyone wants to look at my flights and the temps or just data from the G3 here is the link https://savvyanalysis.com/my-flights/1003338/c58cc8de-cab6-407e-b661-cffa918e3388

My G3 in flight

Ya I listed the spread as raw numbers for my first and last to peak...but normally when I have tried down lower but with RPM at 2300 and MP of 20 the spread is like 1.5 to 2 gallons. Yes I have a technical background... Went to ITT Tech.. from 91 to 93 and learned Electronics. For a job I am Technical support for FEI Company (Now Thermo Fisher Scientific) I used to be field service but now I am the guy the FSE's call when they need help.. I also answer calls from customers. The equipment is Scanning Electron Microscopes and Dual Beam Equipment (a Focused Ion Beam column and an Electron Column on the same platform) With this I do high level troubleshooting of Vacuum System, Electron Optics, Ion Optics, Electronics, and micro Mechanic Stages that use Piezo Electric Motors. Mechanically I have done projects before aviation like removing a 1990 Ford Mustang 5.0 motor and putting it into my 1984 Ford Ranger PU... Then later after the truck was inop for other reasons I put that motor into my 1974 Orion Tri-Hull boat. I put a 1968 Lincoln Continental motor into a 1963 Ford F100 Long bed Unibody truck. Still have that. And most importantly .... I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night..... ;-)

Mine was too... I replaced the 2.5" Carb heat with the 2.5" G3.... its easy to see and read right to the left of the yoke.. I did need to change my ign key setup... I keep the key chain with hangar keys in my pocket now and use just a single key in the ign... the keychain would hang down over the Carb heat and that was fine but with the G3 it was an issue.

Some History.. Bought the C in 2008 as a 80 hour pilot. Have over 1060 hours now, all in the Mooney. I do owner assisted annuals. Any real repairs have been done by Top Gun since I am located at KSCK. I personally installed the Panel upgrade with the two LASAR panels. I recently upgraded my GTX330 to ES and while running the RS-232 wire for the Com to the 430W I knocked the Com 1 audio in wire out and had no audio.. while fixing that I knocked 2 others out from he 80 pin 430 D connector. So I pulled the whole stack got the manuals and rewired the whole thing.. because it was a cluster after years of small upgrades at a time. While doing this I also installed the Insight G3 engine monitor and LOVE IT! But this is why I now am aware of the High CHT's for 2 and 4... Probably nothing new but now that I am aware I want to fix. I am looking at the lower cowl upgrades but the date is mixed on how it really helps or not with heat and or speed. As for Mods I have the Flap and aileron seals, Vertical tail root and I personally installed the Horizontal tail root. (yes all signed off and supervised by my AI if I did the work) I do have a modern POH I believe.. and the original.. As to climb speed and additude, I used to clime at 100MPH until at 1500ft or so and again if I had terrain to clear.. and then 120MPH for better overall time to destination (unless I knew there was a kick ass tail wind waiting for me and then I would try to climb faster) but now that I know my temps for 2 and 4 I climb at 130MPH and still have temps over 420 for 2 and 4. and now I circle to get over terrain.. I use full mixture until its choking now... again because of temps... and to my understanding the Mooney Carb does NOT have that full power extra rich valve (think power valve). I could be wrong but that's what I though one of the guru's had said before. I will always continue reading but trust me since I started flying in 2007 I spend at least an hour or two a week up to 10 hours a week learning.. from accidents review, to Mooney specific information, ect ect... I have tried LOP since I got the G3 and my Gami spread has been as much as 2 GPH and when your only flowing 8 or so that's a big diff... but Today coming back from Oceano at 8500 I was playing around and with 1950RPM (I normally fly 2500 unless down low for a short hop in to RHV from SCK) I had a spread with lowest being 6.9GPH and highest at 7.1 GPH and settled out at 6.5ish with a reading of between 25 and 60 deg lean of peak... it was a ruff sounding engine but better than I have ever been able to do before. Thanks

then What CHT's do people see on the C's ? with a monitor on all 4? if 420-440 is normal on climb and 396-400 in cruise for the left bank (2 and 4) then so be it.. but I want to know this is normal. I get they are all high.. but HOW high.... Thanks

I do have a FF and at full rich I am at about 18GPH...

Don Maxwell.. I have a question for you.. I have a 1968 M20C. Fred Blue's old plane that you used to service in TX. I recently installed a engine anylizer and can see all 4 CHT's First off.. Ignorance was bliss. My number 3 that the factory guage is on is the coolest... Go figure. Anyway, numbers 1 and 3 run cool enough.. like 380 max in climb and 330-350 in cruise... My number 2 and 4 run really hot in climb... I have to put the nose down to climb at 125MPH or more and those two still sit at 430 and 440, if I try to do a 100mph climb they will excdede 460. I have checked the baffeling and remade some of the doghouse. I am ordering a new internal cylinder baffle today. I checked my fixed cowl flaps and they are both open at least as much as the book says. My question is what prevents me from upgrading to a modern style baffel system instead of the doghouse. can this work or if not what else is different. Anyone can answer but I figured the expert Don is one oppinion I would like to have. BTW no induction leaks and those two Cyl do not peak any sooner which would indicate an air leak in the induction system. Any help would be great.