bavareze

Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes

Hello and happy new year! Problem 1: nose gear has too much L-R play (turning, not axial), causing shimmy during the landing rolls. Me and my mechanic believe the excessive play is a cumulative of various plays in the gear linkages, caused by wear. We hope that by replacing the truss 540004-501 the play will be reduced to something acceptable. To my disappointment, the only option I found so far is $3k exchange from LASAR. I think spending such an amount of money knowing that the problem (or most of it) could be elsewhere should be avoided. Now if I was to find a used part and a dismantler, we could only install it to see the results, as checking it beforehand would be inconclusive. Do I have any other options here? Do you see something obviously wrong with our strategy? Problem 2: the decorative panel surrounding my electrical switches is very worn out and I dislike it. I've been postponing it for over 5 years simply because I can't find a replacement part for it. Is there anybody who has a good used one? I also been advised to order a custom panel from an engraving shop but I don't have the data file required for such an order. Ideas? Thanks !

Hello! What are my options making this look prettier? I saw some people have an aluminum trim with embossed markings, that would be nice to have. Or anything else that's a bit prettier. Thanks!

The carburetor rebuilder lost the parts in marked in yellow. I'm especially after the mixture cable catch screw and hardware. Any ideas where to find that? Marve 10-4, 1963 M20C Thanks!

so as soon as I add a few psi of pressure to the reservoir, the flaps operate normally. But then they revert to inop as soon as there is no psi. It just feels like the inflow valve won't open by itself.

the fuel pressure was increasing when I tested the electric fuel pump prior to starting the engine. there was plenty of fuel in the carburetor bowl. I checked that by removing the bottom drain plug. the throttle lever feels like I'm not pumping anything when pushing/pulling it and I feel no fuel smell. It feels different than before, and this makes me believe it is not squirting. however: upon starting the engine, the engine has accelerates properly when pushing briskly the throttle - and this seems to indicate the pump is actually working. before starting to remove things and send the carburetor for overhaul, is there anything else I could do to confirm the problem or help it work? My guess it's that I have a sticking fuel valve at the pump, caused by not flying it for 6 months. Once that is unstuck, it should be good for another 60 years. But I might be wrong.

new day, new problem: tried to start the engine (1963 Model C, O360-A1D) - nothing, not even some pops. The throttle felt a little weird: when I was pushing it back and forth to prime the engine, it was less resistance. It didn't fell like i was pushing fuel. My plane does not have a separate primer, it is supposed to be primed with by pumping the throttle. Since I was already suspecting the primer, I squirted some fuel in the intake and the engine started right up with no issues. What's the best way to tackle this issue? Does the carburetor need to come out and send it somewhere to be fixed, or this is something that could be fixed with the carbuertor installed? Thanks!

The look and feel of 730 really doesn't fit in my panel, I was hoping to keep the old school look and feel.

No. I never touched anything. It's been sitting for 6 months, worked well before. No mx at all inbetween.

Been looking like this lately. What are my options to improve, so I can read the numbers, not just the bars? Thanks

Hello! Flaps were fine for 8 years, then the plane sat for 6 months. The fluid level is fine. Now it feels like the pump is not sucking fluid when raising the lever. The lever is soft and wants to go back, almost like there would be vacuum inside the pump. Then the flaps don't move down. I went under the plane, bled the slave cylinder - no more air. When I'm pressurizing the reservoir with a few PIS of air, the pump is sucking fluid and the flaps work just fine. But as soon as I release the pressure, the pump is again not working. Any ideas?

Thanks. I tried the adafruit bno055, the bosch imu as well as the tdk mpu8950. They wll use accelerometers to correct for gross pseudo-gyro drifting. But when subjected to a constant laterall acceleration, such as during a level 360 turn, they all start registering horizon being level with the wings of the plane, in essence mistakenly thinking a pendulum will always point to center of earth. I'll try the glonass thing to see if it is any better. On the meantime i started coding my own accelerometer-0seudo-gyro fusion method that should be able to reject the above mentioned pendulum error. What a headache!

:-)) We're here. Also you could come to hangar G at Airventure if you wanted to chat. Mine did same thing. One cylinder actually.... Which one is that?

Thanks for pointing out

Hi! This week we are presenting at the EAA Airventure our new portable autopilot. This patented design is easily removable and lightweight, bypassing the requirement for an STC or alteration form. You can see a video demo here: Or on our websitew Ww.autoyoke.com Thanks + Feedback welconed!