eman1200

I would prefer leaving as is and just learning more about how everything works. It’s been flawless with this one exception.

Yup, leaning heavily towards that in line fuse. Thank you!

Just a relay for the avionics master. It’s connected to a three way switch in the panel, UP only works when the master is on, middle is off and down powers the avionics even with the master off.

Put the brand new relay in, same behavior. What we found was with the master power off but still getting power to the panel, pulling the FLAP cb killed the power. With no power going to the panel, inline fuse in, flap cb out, we can still lower the flaps. That is bizarre. Does anyone else have this inline fuse on the master relay?

I’ll try this, ty.

I'm curious why you recommend those two, I see no specs on those links. so while yes, they 'look' the same, without specs how can you compare? I know other people have probably already done that, but other than mounting brackets, if the specs are the same but one is 1/4 the price...... it would be nice not to have to remount it but that's not worth the extra price to me. BUT, if that's simply the better choice, then that's what I'd go with. the one I listed is listed as the pma replacement for the cutler hammer according to lamar.

we did plenty of multimeter zapping and right now everything is pointing to the relay. the switch seemed to be ok, although I don't think it would be a bad idea to replace it. the oem part has 4 posts as well. this is the 'new' one, which kind of lines up with how the existing one is wired. sort of:

for the record, are there people who have replaced the oem master with the Lamar sts-m12? from the specs: "Silver Contacts provide 300A in-rush & 150A continuous-duty capability Much higher than OE units which is higher in-rush but fewer continuous. I think other than starting the plane this should be more than enough but just wanted to check.

Thanks!

I'm looking for a part number/replacement for this puppy: pretty difficult for me to find it in the svc/maintenance manual but I'm wondering if a Sky-Tec Sts-M12 Battery/Master Solenoid By Lamar would suffice, other than how it would be mounted?

Pulled the master switch out, resistance seemed normal. Don’t think it’s the switch at this point. Working on next steps.

And was also not what happened to me. When I got the call that my lights were on I said there is NO WAY I left the master on. And I didn’t, hence this thread where I specifically mentioned the power is on even when the master is off.

the aircraft spruce link you provided was for a solenoid. the solenoid pictured above IS less than or around a year old, but it is not what the arrow is pointing to. the arrow in pic 1 points to the inline fuse and the arrow in pic 2 points to the relay, which has been there since I've had the plane. I'm question if the RELAY is part of the problem, not the solenoid.

That’s the solenoid which is probably less than a year old. We were thinking the relay or the wiring ,like you said.

OK strange situation......fly to VA for the weekend. Landed plane on Friday, tied down, most DEF turned off the master. Saturday it rained most of the day. Sunday morning I get a call form the airport saying my strobes/navs were on, I was like there is NO WAY 1) I left the master on and 2) no one at the airport noticed until Sunday. So drove up to the plane, sure enough, strobes/master on. Get in the plane, master is most definitely off. Started poking around, pulled the access panel open on the master switch side. Found NO water in there at all, which was our initial guess. Check several places, tried jiggling wires on the master switch, nothing worked, the plane was still getting power as if the master was on. Pulled the inspection panel off for the battery and the only thing we could really come up with is when I pulled the circled fuse, power would cut off: Is it possible this relay is bad? We tried tapping on it, looking for loose wires etc, couldn't find anything. No water in this area from the rain. So pulling that breaker and obviously disconnecting the battery works, otherwise it's as if the master is stuck on. Help! Thanks!

I could see if it was bud light…..

has anyone thought to say "please, no spam posts"? maybe if we just ask nicely............................ I'm jk, btchslap these mofos!

Kevin where are you located?

There are washers and there are crush washers, both metal and plastic/nylon. Some use metal crush washers with spark plugs that are meant to be, wait for it….crushed, and help form a seal and put pressure to prevent the plug (or bolt etc) from coming loose. I don’t think I said mine were crushed either, just that he used them when previously I had NO washers at all.

I would have thought the need for a snug fit would be more important for balance reasons.

TYVM. I guess I'm just surprised 2 mooney service centers didn't feel the need to add them and I also wouldn't have thought you could tighten them up sufficiently with the washers. I'll be less nervous now, thank you.

been flying a '75 F for 8 years now with no washers of any kind on the spinner screws, using several different mechanics. new mechanic just put plastic crush washers on them. that seems......odd to me. what say you all? tcds doesn't say anything specific about it. checking parts manual as we speak.....

ok, in lieu of me overusing the word "thingy" to describe what's going on, here's a nice clean AI description of what I'm looking for: Skytronics Magneto Harness – General Description & Issue System Overview (4-piece assembly): Nut – Secures the assembly externally. Collar – Located under the nut, sits atop the blue lead sleeve. Blue Lead Sleeve – Insulating outer cover of the ignition lead. Round Insert (Ferrule/Pin Seat) – Positioned between the center conductor (core) and the blue sleeve; this component compresses (or pinches) the blue sleeve into the collar when the nut is tightened. Original Design: A threaded pin spins into the center conductor (core) of the ignition lead. This pin provides a secure electrical connection and mechanical engagement within the magneto harness cap. Your Current Setup: Instead of a threaded pin, your configuration uses a crimped pin. The pin is crimped onto the exposed core of the ignition lead (not threaded). The pin is what I'm looking for, part # or where to find would be fantastic. I checked "thingies-r-us" but since skytronics isn't around anymore, I had no luck Thank you!

Ok I think we have some of those, thank you!