Yetti

Take the cover off the inside. using a tennis ball slowly work that crease out. Possible a rounded piece of wood. Once it is less creased along the length, you may need to tap the center of the crease out with a plastic dent repair hammer. Watch some paintless dent repair videos on youtube. Work it out slowly. Should make it looks presentable.

Never really seen those stay stuck for long inside. doubt outside would change history.

Are you sure it is not a speed clip or speed nut that has been bent at a 90 degree angle?

You could just use a one of the screw clips like are on the panel bottom. run the tywrap through it before you put on the lightening hole.

I will just say kudos for taking a flight above the airport and then checking things. Provide a list of things so the Owner can have a coaching session with the trainee. Really need to get check and recheck in the new person head. Find a new shop.

Assuming the right wing? There should be no laying wires on the wing panel. Follow the temp sensor wire at the leading edge wing root by the door. The fiberglass ceiling wire snakes are helpful here. There is an access panel on the lower wing that is about 3 panels out. I had to run a 9 conductor wire for the Dynon. Even if you don't use the same rib hole you can still tywrap to that wire bundle to make a neat install. I would run the loose end back to the cabin. Pull the lower panel in the cabin to route wires to Comm Bay. I mounted the Magnetometer to an access panel out board of the fuel tank middle of the wing. One you can route wires to, the next one outboard could not get wires to. If I get to the plane I will identify which one. It takes a little figuring, but it works.

Gonna hazard a guess, but the planes with lightening detectors got static whips.

one thread about valves.

It's not coming from inside the sniffle valve. Otherwise it would be a drip at the end of the fuel output drain. This is coming from the hose up above. and draining down the outside of the hose. Someone might have missed the filler when filling it with oil.

I'd be looking for a ground that is not grounded. Sometimes the Cannon Connectors need to be taken apart and put back together. Next place to look is the switches in the belly next to the actuator

The general Consensus is that buying new is about the same as OH of the old and you get a better product for the Prop governor. Your story mirrors others.

Last two times I heard of this it was a stuck/dirty oil control ring on one cylinder. The jug was pulled, field overhauled. Cylinder was a mess of coked oil. Cleaned with walnut media blasting.

Do a leakdown test on the fuel pump. If it passes then go fly.

Learn to land in something else than a mooney mooney instruction might be hard to find in your area

Seems old enough to be of the time they were switching from old valves that would break to sodium filled valves and such. Might look for an SB or AD