Yetti

Belt sanders mess up things very quickly. I would probably get a piece of oak the correct height that you could side around inside the circle. Then clamp a Utility knife blade to it to cut the plastic at a right angle. Or using the same concept of making a jig to slide around inside the hole. clamp a dremel tool to the jig with rotary bit to it like a mini vertical mill. A little less stable, but more adjustable cut half out base here and use it. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-1-8-in-Rotary-Tool-Cutting-Kit/1092895?store=3032&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_TOL_000_Priority_Item-_-1092895-_-local-_-0-_-0&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21218097027&gclid=CjwKCAjw4efDBhATEiwAaDBpbhhPaHqzemAf2pNh60gIR6vXDZ8LIEwiLWREJ87F4hXik5Z8x1BEkxoCjIYQAvD_BwE lots of chips will fly, but should get good consistent level cut.

The take off was explained to me like this by Mooney Safety Instructor. Lift off, gear up, dip level for a second to pick up speed and get the wing flying, then go up. The Mooney wing needs good airflow to get flying. Go around should be the same. first off due to habit. I had this conversation with the another Safety Instructor last Thursday. The key being to fly level/aviating after applying power after a go around instead of trying to go up. Collect your wits about you then start doing things like gear up then flaps up. Mooney wing airfoils are NACA 63-215 wing root and NACA 64-412 at the tip The Beechcraft Bonanza does not have a specific, named airfoil. Instead, it utilizes a modified NACA 23015 airfoil

. am going to give points for consistancy

just thought I would stop by and say check FaceBook Market Place for Oxygen Concentrates. Professional course on a closed driver.

If I was going to do one, I would replace the spikes with 1"x1/8 angle aluminum that was cut and sharpen into a spike. Also using some 1" climbing webbing in a self equalizing anchor set up would reduce the shock loading and anchor failure. Anchoring is more about not creating hard points to fail....

Pretty sure the horse is not dead so a couple more kicks. Let's define Airworthy Found this one. "ANSWER: There are two conditions that must be met for an aircraft to be considered "Airworthy” 1. The aircraft must conform to its type design (TC). Conformity to type design is considered attained when the aircraft configuration and the components installed are consistent with the drawings, specifications, and other data that are part of the TC, which includes any supplemental type certificate (STC) or other approved alterations. 2. The aircraft must be in a condition for safe operation. This refers to the condition of the aircraft relative to wear and deterioration, for example, skin corrosion, window de-lamination or crazing, fluid leaks, tire wear, etc. If either of these two conditions cannot be met, the aircraft is considered to be un-airworthy. So, the goal for those persons who operate and maintain aircraft is to keep them in an airworthy condition or what is referred to as “continued airworthiness”. " If you took a large sample of late 1900s airplanes and reviewed them against the Type Design I bet that about 50% would not pass.

Agreed. I just had this conversation with my friend from above post. The Owner is already required by the regs to ensure the Airplane is Airworthy. That infers that an Owner has the knowledge to know what makes the Airplane Airworthy. Simplistically the hanging Adel Clamp from the picture at the start of this thread would make the Airplane not airworthy because it was not as specified in the Maintenance Manual. So if as an owner I can see the unairworthyness of the item, denying the owner the ability to fix a simple non complex item seems rather silly as the owner is already been made responsible.

Seems like there should be a Maintainer category of mechanics for simple stuff and a Major category (rebuilding engines and OH major components like fuel servos.

Thanks @Hank used your description. I have a friend on the EAA tech Committee. Or something like that. He also spent 4 years getting the Dynon Autopilot approved for the Baron. I sent him this email: The summary is: How can we get an item added to the list of the PM items that an Owner/Pilot is able to perform? The Item to be added is the ability to change brake linings. Discussion: Pilots are able to change tires under the PM section of the Rules. Generally this task involves: jack up plane; remove the wheel and brakes lining holder; remove the brake rotor from the wheel; remove the wheel bearings; separate the wheel halves; replace the tire and/or tube; reassemble the wheel halves; inflated the tire and check for leaks; add the brakes lining holder; clean and repack the wheel bearings; put the wheel bearings back in; mount the assembly onto the gear leg; lower the plane from the jacks. The removal and replacing several rivets along with the brake linings does not seem to be that much more complex of a task than the above. I would also see this as a test case to adding other items to the PM list of items that can be performed. Since a rule/law needs to be rewritten possibly rewrite it as "list of PM items as approved by the Commissioner" which would not require the law to be changed to add an item.

Thanks for that. I am not really looking for an interpretation of the existing rules. More a how do we add a task to the list of PM items that were arbitrarily determined some time back during the Wright Brothers Era.

It kind of makes me want to call the FAA and ask how we get an item added to the list of PM list that Owners (who are responsible for maintenance of the planes) and pilots who can sign off on the work.

Which can be done from the front of the plane. This would only be seen if you INSPECT from the back of the plane. The worst part of this was I was changing a tire, which of course is allowed PM, but you have to remove the brake pads assembly which is certified mechanic work. One of the break pads needs replacing, so I changed the tire, and reassembled the should be replaced brake pad cause replacing a rivet in a pad liners is so dang hard only a certified mechanic could do it well that and I did not have brake pad linings.

The bad thing was I did not go check the other side after I changed the tire and fixed this side.

yep. this one was easy so the nut driver worked and it was already in hand. The #1 phillips and then some forceps works too. they seemed to be curved just right. I have about 4 pairs of forceps. Yetti sized hands are not good to work on a Mooney with.

Now you are making it worse because annual inspection was in January. Which means the guy lubing it had to have seen it and ignore it. I have already cleaned up a fair amount of grease after the last lube job in January. I get it Adel clamps are a pain, I smashed it down with a nut driver and let the tension hold it till I got a nut on it. There are degrees of perfection.....