1967 427

Awesome, now I have a reason to buy a 3D printer! !

Just found this and since I have more time than money, as I am retired, I have to fun project ahead of me. https://francomarquis.wordpress.com/2019/05/01/aeroflash-strobe-restoration-for-under-15/ Since this is for a spare, it’s not time sensitive.

With this information, does anyone know if the Whelen A427 will fit into the Aero Flashes glass housing? Or should I continue to look for the cheap one?

I have always kept spares on hand in my hangar, oil and air filters, copper crush gaskets and so on. Recently I have been stocking up on light bulbs, but have been unable to identify the type of strobe bulb that I use. Normally I’m pretty good at sourcing part numbers, but this one has me stumped. Below is an image of my strobe bulb. Anyone know the pn and if it’s still available? This bulb fit into a tapered glass housing. The only replacement bulb that I keep coming across is a bulb that has a coil in it and a don’t know if it will physically fit inside the glass housing. Below is an image of an A610, with the coil I mentioned. Does anyone know if my type is still available or is it becoming unobtainium?

Did you measure the resistance in your test leads? They can easily add 1 Ohm to your reading, taking the resultant measurement down to 4.2 Ohms, and keep in mind the last time your meter was calibrated. But what do I know, I was am ME, not an EE.

Actually I think it’s this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/205165708619 most used ones have internal damage from improperly cut cotter pins that cut thru the cap

Hard to see, but there is a tub of sand bags on the tail hook, it isn’t pushing up or pulling down, it holds the tail in a static position.

Call me paranoid, but I use a tail weight that has a fixed length. I use my wing jack along with a cherry picker that I attach to the lifting point on the engine. One inch up at a time on all the lifting points until all wheels are 2 inches off the deck. My concrete tail support is actually a wash tube filled with bags of sand that hold my umbrella stand with the fixed height mounting point (all that is sitting on a dolly so it’s easy to move around). With all 4 mounting points in place and the plane unable to rock, I still get in gingerly. Or MaryAnn And it’s returned to the deck for the evening if my mechanic doesn’t finish underneath in one day. (Never rely on hydraulic cylinders or the possibility of an earthquake)

Just found the page with 67F schematic and it’s the same pn.

Don’t have manual for 67F, but according to my manual the correct pn for a 67E is AN5546-1

Your new thermal couple is it a type K or J?

Friends in the cabin and full tanks may help, but recently my mechanic and I did my nose wheel shock discs. We used a ratcheting strap between the upper and lower halves, which generates way more force than a couple of 200lb’ers in the cabin.

I guess I am tainted by how crappy the engraving looks in my plane. Looks like it was done by a prisoner using his shiv as an engraving tool instead of shanking another prisoner.

Powder paint and silkscreening looks even better

Agreed. I wonder if it might be more prudent to be in discussions with aeromotors LLC out of Wisconsin

Of course marketing inflated the numbers, that’s what they do. If we all believed what the marketing department was throwing out there, we would sell our Mooney’s and buy a Cirrus. They have this remarkable system that will save everyone on board. Oh wait the parachute was a necessity due to its inability to recover from a spin.

And I highly expect that the brushes and bearings are automotive standards or easily accessible off the shelf standards. Usually the only component that fails in an automotive idler pulley on a serpentine system is the $13 bearing. I enjoy the challenge of disassembling, figuring out bearing size and sourcing it. Anybody can just go and purchase the $65 replacement idler assembly.

OK, I have to ask, how does that happen. I read preliminary and final FAA accident reports so I don’t make the same mistakes others may have. Even Mooney space is all about learning. I regularly help my mechanic do my annuals, and we place my aircraft on jacks that I made. We each work a main wing jack simultaneously calling out each pump so we stay in unison. After about four pumps on the wings, we move to the nose and lift it up (via cherry picker) to maintain a level condition. The main wing jacks are raised until a safety pin can be installed. Once the pin is installed the hydraulic jack is slow released to put load onto the pins and not the hydraulics. I have reviewed our procedure many times thru my head to try and think if we’re missing anything that might make it safer. If you know please share how the aircraft fell off the jacks.

Since I was at the airport today I snapped a couple of photos of mine, specifically of the spacers that I mentioned in a previous post on this string. The blue is heat shrink tubing, which makes them easier to install and less likely for me to lose.

If R&R, the cowling was his first and only response, he obviously didn’t have to manufacture any shielding or other components. I would definitely call him to the carpet on this one.

I don’t have a good image of mine, but I have a spaces in front of and behind the ball joint on the door side. Looking at the image it looks as if the front bracket is bent and you have 2 washers as spacers on the rear and on the front the 2 washers are not being used as spacers as they are not between the bracket and ball joint. With the spacers installed there is no play between the door and the lower ball joint. This alone could be the main source of slop. (My spacers look like 4 small pieces of tubing, 2 in front and 2 behind, they are small, each is about 3/16 in length) small trick, I would always have to search for one when I would disassemble, I installed heat shrink tubing around the 2 pairs. Now it goes together with ease, and if I drop one of the spacer packs the blue heat shrink stand out on the ground.

First of all, congratulations on your new to you Mooney. I myself have not used TopGun since my pre purchase/ annual. BUT I highly suggest using them for a very detailed examination. I was given a beautiful report that listed everything they could find. Not all of these items needed addressing at the moment but things for me to keep my eyes on. I had them address all squawks that needed immediate attention, but now a has a Christmas List generated for my wife, and myself. I prefer to be part of the annual process to stay informed, I have used multiple different AI’s in the past (I appreciate fresh eyes). Always good to get another’s perspective. For the last couple of years I have used the same gentleman, why, I find him to be on the top of his game. Again just my $0.02

I am now obsessed with that rubber. The skins are from a later model like F’s and J’s, and it is difficult to see from the pictures, but it doesn’t look like a full length rudder like on F’s or J’s. It looks like the lower section is fixed. Can that be a field approval? 337? Or a mechanic that says, “shhh it will be fine.”?

Good eye!