acrotex

I have spun a number of different aircraft (Luscombe 8A, C170A, Pitts S1S and S1T, Sukhoi 26 and 29, RV4, C150). The thing I don't like about a Mooney (M20C in my case) is that there is very little rudder travel (IMHO). Because of that, I would be somewhat concerned about spin recovery. May be OK if nobody In back seat and no baggage in rear. As CG moves aft, spin recovery becomes more of a problem if fully developed. That is usually where the problems happen during certification flights. For example, you can hardly side slip a mooney due to so little rudder or rudder travel. I like planes that I can side slip. The RV4 was also similar in that it did not slip well. However it would spin fine (single pilot, never did it with a passenger). I spun it about 12 or 13 turns a few times. It would recover fine with Biggs method. With aft CG may be quite different. Never tried it in the M20C

Here is a "trick" I came up with today on getting the air out of the brake caliper. In my case, I had plane up on jacks, and had the wheel removed. Installed new brake pads and decided to put new O-ring on the piston. First advice is to try to plug the line when you remove it to prevent the fluid from draining out. If you do that, then all you have is air in the caliper after replacing the piston. The "trick" I came up with was to re-attach the brake line, then open the bleed valve at the bottom of the caliper. Then, with the caliper still "free", there is enough hose to hold the caliper upside down, with the inlet hose at bottom and the bleeder at the top. The fluid will gravity flow into the caliper and push the air out the top. Will make some mess as you let it flow some fluid and air out. Ensure the resevour has enough fluid in it. Then close the bleeder. install the caliper and then pump the brakes. Mine were solid. You may have to do this twice if still some air in caliper. If you let all the fluid bleed out of the lines, then you have to go to plan B and back bleed the brakes. Screw a fitting with small hose to top of resouvour and put the hose into a jar or can and force fluid from bottom. Normally a pump type oil can and soft small hose will work (have used that on other aircraft, but did not need to on the M20C.)

I need a brake caliper "piston" for 63 M20C. The parts manual says it is PN 35-202 or could use the entire caliper. These are for use with wheels marked 40-24. I can't find PN on the calipers any longer. I found my piston is bent, slightly on the thin area where the O ring goes. Someone must have stepped on it some time in its past. Was trying to find out why pads on that wheel always wear at an angle and now understand why as the piston does not want to move smoothly.

There is a steel bracket inside that those rivets attach to. That bracket cracks. It does no good to put in new rivets without replacing the bracket (pair of them). There might be some cases where the rivets were working and the bracket is still OK, but I bet most are broken. Someone that had this happen bought two more tails, thinking he could remove the brackets to use on his. It turns out the brackets were cracked in all 3 tails.

Lew, thanks for the info on removal, kind of what I was expecting. Like with the vacume pump, you need a special wrench. Did you have to remove any other items to get them out, like the prop gov? One of the wires is for the shower of sparks, which runs off of the second set of "retarded points" in the left mag. For sure want to mark those wires comming from the key start switch . Tony, on the Slick mags, I will consider that as I is nice to have new mags and harness. I did the same on a Pitts S1S and also on a RV4 that I had. For the Pitts, I liked the fact that the Slicks were a little lighter and smaller. I think either mag (slick or bendix) is fine as long as they are well maintained. I have had Bendix on a C170A for about 38 yrs now and they still work fine. Had a cracked mag cap one time, was only problem I can remember. But they have been maintained. The bendix went thru some bad times in early 70's when they had the coils cracking open and then later the impulse coupling issue. But we don't have the impulse coupling with the shower of sparks mag.

Gilt, where did you get the fuel sending units? What was cost and PN? What size are your tanks? My M20C (1963) has the 24 gal tanks. Later ones are larger, not sure if the sending units are the same or not. I have one unit that I think is going bad.

Has anyone removed and re-installed the Bendix S4LN mag's on a M20C (180 HP engine)? Space looks very tight (like everthing on these). Was curious as to best procedure. Any suggestions on best shop for mag insp and OH. Mine have 500 hrs, but are still working OK. Thinking about having them inspected and OH as needed. These are shower of sparks so no impulse isssue/AD. I see where its recommended to service them every 4 yrs to replace aging grease. These are older than that. I searched this list but came up empty.