CCAS

Carling V-Series / Contura V switches were the types used in the Ultras. See attached IPC pages for part numbers. As @jetdriven mentioned, each Carling switch requires its own (new) circuit breaker so you'll need some careful CB panel planning. It is possible in a M20J though. M20U IPC with Switch part numbers.pdf Carling V-Series_datasheet.pdf

Scott - Not sure if you have the ETA or Klixon switch types but you may try @AH-1 Cobra Pilot or @redbaron1982 to see if they can help. I still have my ETA Boost Pump complete switch removed earlier this year during my avionics upgrade....let me know if needed. John

My antenna is in about the same shape as your old one. Where did you end up sourcing your new replacement?

Complete!

Almost ready to install.

I'm halfway through my A&P program and I like sheetmetal so I decided to do a very minor owner produced part project. My 201 yoke switch covers (blanks) needed a refresh so I thought I'd just do a quick strip and repaint. Once I stripped them I wasn't happy with the condition of the old aluminum so decided to fabricate new ones. I tried .051" 2024T3 as well as .064" 2024T3 and 7075T6....I think I like the 7075 best. First photo below show the old switch covers as installed. And the other two photos compare the old stripped covers (left) to the new covers that are almost ready for paint (still need a little more hand sanding). I'll etch primer tomorrow and hopefully paint Sunday. Will post final pictures when I can.

Any chance there's an issue on the accessory case side of the equation (drive coupling bushing/retainer, magneto drive gear, idler gear assembly)? Those might manifest with intermittent results. Couple other questions mostly out of curiosity: what RPM are you starting the mag checks at? when you perform the mag check does the 150 RPM drop occur pretty rapidly or is it a slow steady decay? what kind of density altitudes are you seeing when you run the checks (do you perform the mag checks Full Rich or leaned for higher DA)?

Seems to be a good example of staggered timing. The mag with the 28 deg BTDC setting should have correlated to the spark plugs that were closest to the exhaust valves. Goal would be for that combustion event to occur slightly before the opposite set of spark plugs (firing at 26 deg BTDC) so that the two flame fronts meet at the center of the combustion chamber and produce the most effective power stroke.

It looks a bit like a brake caliper bolt but not sure how it would have ended up near your nose wheel. It may not have been from your aircraft but you might want to take a look at your left and right main wheels to see if the calipers are missing any bolts (and are safety wired). Otherwise if you still think it was deposited from your aircraft I’d remove the top and bottom cowlings and see if any of your engine accessories are missing mounting hardware.

This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0792L8R4T?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

That’s how I have mine installed. I thought the preferred installation was on the hat rack with power cord access through the baggage door.

While emailing back and forth with Jon at Pure Medical he advised the following: "The amps while using without the battery are 3 amps, but if you charge the battery and use the unit, you will be using 10 amps." Seems like a 10 amp CB (at least) is needed.

Totally agree. I’d worry if my GTN 650Xi and GNX 375 both fail on a given flight but I consider that outcome unlikely unless dealing with total power failure.

I elected to install a GTR 205 as my #2 radio and am happy with the choice…and the recent software upgrade offered by Garmin gives it some additional features. Price was a factor in my decision but I also didn’t think I needed another Nav source (I’ve got two panel GPS WAAS options and one land-based Nav option which I though gave me plenty of backup capability).

That's about right. I installed the new-style switch for both the gear safety bypass and TOGA. They're different part numbers but both sit 'proud' on the panel.