phxcobraz

Coming up on 2yrs on my reaseal from WeepNoMore and 0 leaks have come up. Also Paul is great to work with, accommodating, and the price isn't out of this world(think I paid $6600 in 2023 for my M20C). It was worth flying it from AZ to MN to have done.

Had to reinstall this when we put a new throttle in last year. It's kind of a pain to adjust but very simple in design, it's just keyed off a position of the throttle. I got it set correctly after about 2 test flights.

Yep center section was easy to take out. Thx @N201MKTurbo

Renewed back in January with Avemco. 1963 M20C 1mil liability $65k hull $2250/yr 450TT, 350 retract(in Mooney), PPL/IR

I thought about rivnuts too, we would probably have to drill the holes out larger the fit in a rivnut.

I will have to look, I can't say I saw the rivets holding it in at either end, but they could just be painted over, that might be the easiest and cleanest way to do it.

Plane is in getting some new avionics done right now and we are a bit miffed as to how to best replace the back 2 nut plates(closest to windshield in center) for the center cover section. They have been broken for some time and we had previously just put some nuts on the bottom, with a normal machine screw in place. This makes it pretty difficult to disassemble and reassemble, takes 2 people usually. Anyone had success with options here? See image below

I got a basically brand new one for my C from a salvage yard, had McFarlane tags on it. McFarlane does have most part numbers they can make a cable for, but when I talked to them they said safest bet is to just send yours in and they will duplicate.

Nice! I heard an ELT go off for a long time while I was north of the airport taking photos of an ultra-marathon on Black Canyon trail. Same thing? Yea I’m in for annual next month and we can chase the wiring/connectors. @Robert Hicks is doing some G5s, PAR200B, and a new panel, so we’re going to have it pulled apart anyway. The oil leak seems like it’s either the oil filter(challenger with new oring), filter adapter gasket, a mag, or prop governor as they are all in that area.

Pretty sure the sensor is bad. It was all over the place taxing after startup. Totally stable at normal numbers during runup and then in flight. Been trying to chase a small oil leak lately and wondering if maybe the sensor is at fault or near something that is. Have drips down the firewall and nose gear. https://imgur.com/a/znJuCN9

If you have OAT the 530 can also calculate TAS on the performance page. that’s certainly faster than my C by about 10kt+. It’s probably rigged very well and colder OAT.

Yea I could’t find a good description in the IPC either. mine is a different handle type, I suspect was replaced at some point. Didn’t take a pic but it’s basically a handle on a ball, with a hollow pin going through it to hold it on.

Trying to remove the handle on my manual step for my 63 M20C to replace some interior panels and the trim plate around it. I was assuming it was just a set screw but it seems like maybe a hollow roll pin. can anyone confirm before I start beating on it with a punch?

Most of that money is going to be in paint correction prior to applying sealant. I did a full correction and sealant on one nicer car years ago(E92 M3) and it was great. For the airplane I just did the buffing/polishing/correction work myself and it shined up real nice for paint done in 1970. I couldn’t justify the cost of a full sealant on something that has plenty of leading edge chips and dings. I’ve buffed/polished it twice in the 4yrs I’ve owned it, and applied a spray sealant. It looks fantastic from 20ft, except for the leading edge rock chips. Whenever I wash now I use Optimum No-Rinse wash and wax, then Optimum OptiSeal as a drying agent on each panel and it reapplies that sealant each time but it doesn’t really last between washes like a true ceramic coating does. If I had newer paint I’d absolutely spring for the cost of ceramic coating.

I had almost the exact same issue earlier this year(see thread I posted). I was having intermittent trouble starting until one day it wouldn’t start at all. Checked continuity to all wiring to/from the ignition, shower of sparks, and the left mag. All checked out great, however my left mag was approaching overhaul/IRAN 500hr and in checking it we found the retard breaker not working. I figured the $500+ for the mag service was better put toward a new mag so I put on a Surefly electronic mag and it starts fantastic and so easy now.