Johnny U

Hi dhawkes! This is still available if you are interested.

Hi dhawkes- I am not sure why I am only now just seeing this, but I still have it if you are interested!

Wow- you’re not fooling around! Now if we can only start printing out intake ducts to avoid the 35-week wait time from LASAR!

We need to learn how to do this as a body… I have played around a little bit with some of the free CAD softwares, but the learning curve is a bit steep. I believe you can create a relatively accurate wireframe model using a camera/photogrammetry and the turn it into a wire frame model/printable *.STL file. Does anyone here have and end-to-end tutorial they could recommend?

These were a gifted to me many years ago and I never used them. The text on the packaging says it will work on 99% of all GA aircraft (see photo). The company has since gone out of business so I can't give you a lot of detail other than what you see on the packaging. Since N9150V has nose plugs already and I need to get rid of things, I will give it to you for free- just pay for the shipping! Package says it is fire-retardant. It seems to me that the nice thing about this is that it will allow the engine compartment to ventilate more efficiently post-flight since it a mesh fabric...

Have a very lightly used 8A BatteryMINDer and in good working order. This model (12248-AA-S2) was designed for charging: Gill (Sealed + Flooded Wet Cell) + Concorde Flooded $150 $120 with shipping here in the US

I would echo getting rid of the ADF- you won't ever use it and removing it and the antenna will add a little bit of useful load. I'd say that since you have a pretty functional avionics stack, that you get an engine monitor before anything you start upgrading...

Hey Alan- We just need one- sounds like you have a surplus!

Nice looking flying machine!

So an update on the resolution for this- the Deutsch-style crimper that we bought worked well on the Amp II pin connectors. The one issue was the pin depth holder made it such that after crimping when you pulled it back out, the barbs on the AMP II caught (and did their job) and got the pin stuck in the tool. By unscrewing and removing the pin holder- and holding the depth of the pin in the crimper by hand- this issue was resolved. Perhaps a more delicate and precise pin removal after crimping would have avoided this issue in the first place, but at $3 a pop we just removed the depth holder. Either way the crimps were tight and there was no slippage of the wire/pin assembly. In the end we ended up replacing the pin that came loose for the battery relay in order to get power back on and then the other one for the original problem with the NAV light tail circuit. Our A&P took a look before we buttoned it back up and we are now signed off and flying with a new Whelen LED tail strobe/NAV. Thanks to all who helped us figure this out!

Thanks Rich!

Hi Tom- For posterity I am liking the to the FAA's PDF version of the circular https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-chg1.pdf . Electrical starts in Chapter 11 on page 11-1 (the 492nd page of the PDF). @A64Pilotmentions Ancor and I bought those for the terminal connections, but I had previously bought these butt splices from Amazon. From the AC (11-167 paragraph b): b. Many types of aircraft splice connectors are available for use when splicing individual wires. Use of a self-insulated splice connector is preferred; however, a non-insulated splice connector may be used provided the splice is covered with plastic sleeving that is secured at both ends. Environmentally sealed splices, that conform to MIL-T-7928, provide a reliable means of splicing in SWAMP areas. However, a non-insulated splice connector may be used, provided the splice is covered with dual wall shrink sleeving of a suitable material. It seems like the last sentence allows flexibility to use non-milspec connectors if they are dual-wall shrinking. Since this is mentioned explicitly in the description of the Amazon item linked to above, I think we are all set on that.

I might take you up on this depending on how it goes with the Deutsch style crimper...

We recently had the alternator replaced on our 1969 M20F and used the AL12-P70 purchased from Aircraft Spruce.

We’ve ordered the Amp type II parts and a crimping tool similar to the above that handles the Deutsch style solid barrel pin. I’ll report back on if it is compatible and creates a quality crimp. Looking at the CAD drawings of both types shows that they are close in dimension but not the same. Johnny