Nukemzzz

Bump, I still have this available.

Sold on eBay in a couple of days actually... the buyer was quite excited by the deal! If you or a buddy has a J that wants to save some money on the GNC-500 install I have the install kit. My local avionics shop had a leftover full autopilot system for the J from a cancelled install (Gear up landing before the appointment). I purchased the full system (2 Axis + Trim) and I'm using the Servos, Head Unit, and Yoke Buttons in my new Cherokee 6. I'm looking to sell the J Model install kit that remains (Retails for $4195). See the attached kit install bill of materials. I have everything in the Base and Pitch Trim Columns except for the GA-28 servos which aren't part of a the install kits. According to my Garmin Avionics shop the Mooney M20J kits are priced at the following: The roll/pitch install kit (K11-00024-25) list price is $2935.00 The trim install kit (K11-00024-26) list price is $1260.00 Or $4195 combined I'll let them go for, $1,500 for Roll Pitch Kit $800 for the Pitch Trim Kit

Yeah, this is the decision I'm faced with. But we are talking about adding what.... $5000 to the bill to go with two new radios? We all have too much disposable income if that doesn't cause some reflection. lol

I'm about to embark on a big big project. I'm about to inherit my father's Cherokee 6 and I plan on going big on refurb as I transition to it from my VFR only 1966 M20E (N3434X). I'm going to gut the panel and the interior. I'm going to try for a G3X system... buying all the stuff and harness from Approach Fast Stack and installing it together with my shop here. But I'm still choking on the price of this upgrade. I'm looking at 55K just for the parts. Avionics shops are quoting 120-140 installed. Anyway... I'm looking to save a little money on Radios. I plan on one Nav/Com and one Com. My question is if the SL 30 Nav/Com and SL 40 are good used radios? They are pretty cheap on Ebay used....vs brand new 215 and 205 models. 34X has only ever had radio troubles (KX155 is a terrible radio in my experience)...so I know radios can be a PIA.

If I had the dimensions I could 3D print a custom holder for it.

This is almost exactly what I want to get done to my father's Cherokee 6 in Bonifay Florida just east of there. I wasn't aware that there was a good avionics shop in DS. I just plan on a GNS 375 for GPS instead of that 650i. Seems to be cheaper that way and then we get two radios with physical knobbys.

Update: snugging the set screw up by around a quarter turn…and just baicially finger tight again fixed it for now. I don’t know if the screw came loose or the shaft deformed. Will monitor for now.

Ok, I’ve spent an hour looking and I’m turning up nothing. Time to ask for help… I suspect I’m about to fail the 500 yoke shaft AD and I’m apparently the only weirdo that doesn’t want to upgrade to the new yokes. I like the stock yokes..they are small, my iPad mounts to the pilot side using the old clock hole mount, my PC wing leveler works so I need the button, and I read that the new yokes with shafts are a bit longer which might be a problem with my short legs and growing belly…lol Is there no way to just repair the end? I can’t find anyone talking about this.

I’m wondering the same. It’s time for this kit on my bird I think.

Yeah. Pretty sure this is what’s happened. That makes this a pretty embarrassing post. Now the question is if I should leave it as a warning to others. Lol The good news is I’ve always got my eyes peeled from something out of the ordinary, and Mooneyspace discussion maybe saved me $1500! The bad news is when I shut down I forgot I wasn’t driving my old car! (my current cars don’t even have a key)

Well crap. You might be on to something. I just remembered something else. I forgot and shut the plane off with the key instead of the mixture yesterday. I saw it when I went to start later and the mixture was in. And the boost pump would have still been running for a few seconds while I shut things down. I bet that’s all this is.

Ohh. Interesting thought that. So my bird is missing the sniffle valve, however, the airbox vent does connect to the same place as the fuel pump weep. They come out the same pipe. It’s fuel for sure. About a tablespoon maybe. Now that I think about it…it didn’t start coming out until I pushed it back last night and then it was say…spitting…not drip drip drip. But why would I have so much fuel in the intake?

I just went through all the paperwork. The receipts etc. Can’t find that one receipt. It just said mechanical fuel pump replaced in the entry. Grrr

Yeah, but I’m trying to order overnight shipping from spruce today so I have a chance of flying to Florida yet next weekend.

Note: I thought I had a fuel pump failing causing a leak out of the weep hole. Turns out I just forgot to use the mixture to shut down and the boost pump was still on a few seconds as I powered down. This put fuel in intake that then came out the bottom of the intake drain tube...shared with fuel pump weep tube. --------------------- Started leaking a little from the weep hole hose this weekend. Saw it on shutdown while putting down the nose chocks. I have a 8hr round trip to Florida coming next weekend and I'm hoping to rush order a replacement and get it in this weekend. M20E SN 1126. IO-360-A1A According to the Tempest overhauled FP guide on Aircraft Spruce I probably have the vintage "laminated" arm style... but it was maybe upgraded to a modern pump (It was installed 460hrs ago in 2005 during an overhaul). It's clear that I need the 25-30psi version....that much i'm sure of. lol Spruce claims I can get the vintage overhauled pump here by Wed... if I can't tell for sure I suppose I should order it. The vintage one: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-02531.php The Mooney Parts manual claims I need: 6640296. A web search for this number turns up nothing relevant other than the Spruce listing for the modern pump with the notes on it to use the vintage pump if the engine hasn't been converted to the modern: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-19010.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjvaYBhDlARIsAO8PkE1Kzu44-sWgDgclIeQkwfw-cad4bs4K7hrakTLDvjXXWjj72pX-WNEaArjTEALw_wcB I'm pretty certain I can't check this part number without pulling the pump because it has the cooler over it making it impossible to see. Is there an easy way to tell visually without removing the pump? If I understand correctly the modern pump is is a little larger than the vintage style?