pilot_jb

I do have the issue, but the problem isn’t the amount that it can be tightened. The issue is that the radius of the claw is smaller than the radius of the tube. Basically, there’s only two point contact. 

Intil recently, there was a map holder and light mounted to my yoke. The MGF Mount would rest on the top of the map light. Now that it’s gone (the reason for my need for a cover) I’m not sure how it’s going to go. Finishing annual tomorrow, so I guess we’ll see soon

Who is the best source for salvage parts?  I’m looking for a front seat back for a ‘67 F in a hurry. 

Thanks!

I just had mine out for the first time. My best advice is DONT DO IT!  Lol!  They’re an amazing PITA to get out and then back in. 

Does anyone know where to source the center cover plate?  I made a template and will make the plate today, but it won’t be as perfect as just purchasing one. 

11 hours ago, Andy95W said:

I'll go ahead and say that looks pretty normal to me, but I'd want to put my fingertips on the rod ends to make sure there wasn't any play there.

I'm at Y47 next door to you and could take a quick look sometime.

Andy, 

My office is right down the street from Southwest; Pontiac Trail and Old Wixom.  If they displace your runways any further it won't be an airport anymore.  

We have breakfast in our clubhouse at 45G every Saturday morning at 8:30.  All are welcome.  Fly, or drive over and see us (and 8RM) sometime!

Just seems like a lot of play.  I've been through the rod ends visually and they all appear to be good.  Basically, the play in the elevators appears to be the same play in the bungee cartridges before they start to load.  

Hey everyone, 

I'm going through my first annual with the Mooney and am going to start investigating an issue with play in the elevators that's been driving me a little crazy.  Could this be bungees? 

Sorry.  I thought I clipped the video.  Start paying attention at 0:13.  I know the rudder play is not bungees. 

Is this method more sensitive than a panel mount CO detector, which I have a passes the sf check?

Maybe that’s my question. What is the turkey Bastet method?

I've just started my first annual with my M20F.  I know that I read on the forum a couple times that guys have figured out how to get the exhaust apart for inspection without removing the lower cowl.  having an elusive 200hp bellow between the cowl and throttle body, disturbing it as little as possible is the goal.  

Would someone familiar with this procedure please describe the process?  

Thanks!

14 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

If you are having uneven ailerons or a heavy wing, that is fixed by adjusting the flap up stops or bending the trailing edge(s) of the ailerons. If the ailerons are level in flight but the yokes are crooked you will have to make differential adjustments to the aileron links or possibly to the rod behind the panel. Once the plane flies level with even ailerons you can center the ball by bending the trailing edge of the rudder or the rudder trim tab if you have one.

One thing the boards would be useful for is setting the aileron stops. They should have been set when the plane was made and they won't change the way the plane flies.

Before you do any rigging, put the plane up on jacks and make sure the gear doors are not hanging down.

The ailerons are high on the ground and in the air.  Did I read correctly that the elevator boards are necessary when removing the bungee cartridges?

I assumed they would be needed for two reasons. First, the trailing edges of my ailerons are rigged slightly high, and one more than the other, but they are very close to even. Just have to fly with slight opposite yoke and rudder inputs. I know that I’m losing a few knots from the high condition. 

The other issue is play in the elevators, which is likely from old bungees and/or rod ends. This is the bigger concern, because I read that the tail has to be “rerigged”after removing the bungee cartridges. 

Maybe I’m overthinking. It certainly won’t be the first time.

I’m a bit surprised. Their website was active after I purchased my Mooney in September of last year. Was really counting on that during annual next month. Bummer. 

The website is down.  They used to, or still do, rent travel boards for rigging.  Anyone know if they're still around and have alternate contact information?

Thanks.  

So, I figured this out after work last night.  The vertical section of the left front baffle, which is located next to the block and underneath, has a hole for the through stud and associated nut.  This section is flexible enough to to be pulled outboard and over the stud as the outboard portion of the baffle is rotated upward.  At the same time, the baffle extension that is attached to the bottom side for the lower portion of cylinder #2 must be pulled forward, so it clears the fins on the upper part of the cylinder.  

I'll post some pictures the next time I'm at the hangar in case anyone else searches for this issue.  

1 hour ago, 1964-M20E said:

there is one screw that goes into the block below the baffle.  It would be in the upper left side but you need to access it form under the baffle.  Other than that I'm not sure.

 

 

Found three bolts; two in the case and one in the cylinder.  I'm pretty sure it's free, but can't coax it off. 

Good morning from Michigan.

What's the trick to removing the front left piece of baffle that sits in front of cylinder #2?  Everything is disconnected and it's loose, but the through stud and associated nut that sits beneath, and the tab that sits between the cylinder base flange and cooling fins are getting in the way.  I have not dropped the starter, but don't see that it's an obstruction.  

The prop has not been removed.  

For reference, the picture was taken in the beginning of the project...and yes the two small upper baffle pieces have been removed.  

Thanks!

Bose does sell a LEMO to two pin adapter for $60. Sporty’s sell the same adapter for $30 or $40. Running out of time, as the rebate is only valid on purchases made on or before today. I’m 99% sure I’m going to convert to LEMO

On 12/26/2017 at 4:42 PM, jetdriven said:

I have a LEMO plug on my plane. It’s a got +12v, a ground, and audio and mic pins. YOu can  splice easily into existing wiring from the pilot side jack which is near. 

Great information!  Thanks!

I intend to take advantage of the Bose cable upgrade rebate, which expires at the end of the year.  Currently, my front seats are setup for standard two-pin headsets, but have an additional third jack for power.  The last owner used David Clark ANR headsets.  Ideally, I would like to convert to a six-pin setup, so I can take advantage of the auto on/off function.  

Has anyone here converted their jacks to the six-pin setup with power?  As mentioned, the power is already there, so my thought is that it won’t be a big deal, but I can find little information online.  

54 minutes ago, Danb said:

Fricken awesome...showen my age, love it

Showing your age, because you're into Cobras?!  No!  Hell, I've loved these cars since I was a kid, driving them since I was 28, bought my own at 34, and am only 40 now.  I'd also own a Dayton Coupe and GT40 if I could afford it.

My license plate...

On 10/17/2017 at 5:16 PM, M20FanJesse said:

 

Perfect! I knew there had to be someone out there with that paint scheme haha Thank you veryt much

I love the shirt. I’d buy another if/when dark heather is stocked again

Mens Backwards Tail Fast Airplane Red Grey Black T-Shirt 2XL Dark Heather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07494HZB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_RCr-zbP0CP0KA

Fast car and faster airplane.  Superformance Cobra MkIII powered by a 620hp SB 427 fed by old school Weber carbs and my ‘67 M20F  

She's pretty.  I just bought one about a month ago!  Love it so far!

Conveniently, you offer a shirt with a Mooney that looks exactly like my F, so I just bought one for myself, and my wife.