KyleKJ90

Reference my previous post about the v0.6. This is what one of the "white strong flexible polished" looks like after using a Dymo label maker and a several layers of clear coat. (Note the boost pump switch) one year and several hundred flight hours later and she's still going strong. It's still a little loose compared to the original Mooney switches but for the money, you just can't beat them. You absolutely MUST clear coat them in my opinion due to the slight roughness which picks up all kinds of dirt and grime from your fingers. Just don't spray the clear coat on the back side of the switch cover which has the two installation clips. If my memory serves me right, you lift up from the bottom of the switch cover when replacing them too. Does that sound right guys?

Friday March 11th was my third post surgery visit to my regular eye doctor. During the visit he confirmed I was back to 20/20 vision and said I could fly again. My vision cleared up dramatically just a few days prior to that and I feel as though I'm seeing just as clear as I did with glasses/contacts. I haven't filled out the FAA form 8500-7 yet but I was cleared to drive and fly so I made a XC trip to KSTL following my appointment with the eye doc. For those of you who are considering LASIK or PRK, my advice is to go see if you're a candidate. My only wish is that I did this sooner. Don't be like me and let the fear of losing your medical hold you back from such a wonderful innovation such as LASIK or PRK. Thanks for the advice and safe flying to all! Kyle

I know this may seem a little off-kilter, but I found what I believe to be the best method to keep foggy windows at bay during taxi (at least in my case) was to open the overhead air scoop and turn pull the cabin heat knob fully out/HOT. Despite the below freezing temperatures, the fresh air coming from the overhead vents didn't seem that cold and combined with the lukewarm air coming from the lower vents, the windows seemed to clear up slowly but surely. It definitely keeps my windows clean until I'm ready for departure if I open them before closing the door and starting up. Definitely would close those bad boys on the takeoff roll though! Try it out sometime and see what you think.

I believe this link is for the E-L-T switches. My 76F model appears to take this style. Keep in mind there are two versions. v0.5 and v0.6. Apparently v0.6 is supposed to fit tighter but I cannot find a review of them ANYWHERE. I cross posted this in another post but I'd like to know if anyone has tried the v0.6 and can confirm the fit. I might just buy one of each and give it a shot. Also, there appears to be two different textures when it comes to the white ones (which of course I need) "White Strong & Flexible" and "White Strong & Flexible Polished" I think I'm going to try the "White Strong & Flexible Polished" When it arrives I'll be sure to give an update. v0.5 http://www.shapeways.com/product/MLMJCPJBN/switch-cover-klixon-20tc-v0-5-smooth-front?li=shop-results&optionId=12671695 v0.6 http://www.shapeways.com/product/BVM7ZU8CK/switch-cover-klixon-20tc-v0-6-smooth-front?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56024578

Don't know if anyone has tried either of these yet, but I believe these are for the Klixon switches. Apparently the guy makes a v0.5 and a v0.6. The difference between the two is in the links below. If anyone has tried them before please let me know. Once again, I'd like to know if the "White Strong & Flexible Polished" option is the best one to select as well. Otherwise I'll take one for the team and try one of each and give you all a report. Still wish I knew which one was best to go with because they offer FREE shipping on orders over $25. A full ship set for me would be $36.00 with free shipping. A LOT better than $199.00 for a new switch assembly. v0.5 (supposedly looser fit) http://www.shapeways.com/product/MLMJCPJBN/switch-cover-klixon-20tc-v0-5-smooth-front?li=shop-results&optionId=12671695 v0.6 (supposedly tighter fit) http://www.shapeways.com/product/BVM7ZU8CK/switch-cover-klixon-20tc-v0-6-smooth-front?li=more-from-shop&optionId=56024578

Can anyone verify that the 0.6 version is the right/better fit for the klixon switches? I'm interested in purchasing a whole set for my '76 F to have spares and take advantage of the free shipping but would need to verify before making such a purchase. I only need one for the boost pump as of right now so I thought about buying one of each and doing a test fit of each if nobody else has done so already. My biggest fear is that in doing so I might break the switch and have to buy the whole assembly so your help would be MUCH appreciated. Also, is everyone having better luck with the "White Strong & Flexible Polished" verses the "White Strong & Flexible" There seems to be quite a delay when it comes to having them made and/or shipped so if someone could verify, I'd buy the whole set now rather than going through the trial run of both the 0.5 and 0.6 versions. -Kyle

Sorry for the delay. It wasn't until today that I was finally able to focus my eyes on the computer screen to type up a response. I had a last minute change by the surgeon to go with PRK instead of LASIK. Turns out my corneas were a little thin and I have a slight astigmatism which can cause complications and he assured me that PRK was the better option of the two in my case. I'll spare you the boredom of explaining the difference and instead direct you to the YouTube link below. I found it to be spot on with my surgeon's explanation. There isn't really too much difference other than the method they use to get the outer layer of your eyeball out of the way so the laser can do it's job. On top of that the other difference is the extended amount of pain and healing time. As disappointed as I was about the added recovery time and pain, I was rather comforted to know that PRK was more commonly accepted by our branches of the military when it comes to applicant pilots. So far everything is going pretty good and I'm almost seeing 20/20 but only when I squint. Turns out this is normal and my vision will only get better as the days go by. The laser eye center was spot on when they said days two and three after the surgery would be the worst when it comes to pain. I fought like hell to sit through my IA renewal seminar and even had to have the girlfriend drive me there and back. When it comes to my medical certificate, I called my AME and his office assistant said to have FAA form 8500-7 filled out by my regular eye doctor and sent down to the FAA office in Oklahoma City when my vision is back to 20/20. Obviously I won't be doing any flying until then but I'm hoping to make a quick recovery. I can keep you all posted on my recovery and thanks again for all your help and suggestions! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKANhIU7Sxk

On Thursday I'll be undergoing LASIK eye surgery. After talking with the staff at the clinic, it sounds like I should be seeing clearly within a day or so of my surgery. I have a visit with my optometrist the following day so I can be legal to drive again. My question/concern comes with my pilot medical certificate when it comes to filling out the FAA form 8500-7 Report of Eye Evaluation. Just wondering if anyone could help shed some light on this topic and perhaps help guide me through it. Does this get done by my regular optometrist or do I need to visit my AME and have him evaluate me and fill out the form?

N201MKTurbo was right. This was in fact the correct cap for the map lite switch. Thank you so much for your help! Hopefully, others may find this thread useful if they are looking for a replacement cap as well.

You guys are the best! I'm almost positive that the cap N201MKTurbo posted is the one I'm looking for. I ordered one from Digikey today and I'll keep you posted on fit once it arrives. Thanks to all for helping!

Sorry for not posting a picture and for making you all wait so long! I was having difficulties uploading. I think Daver328 is on to something. From your picture it seems we have the same yoke, only like I mentioned before, mine is leather wrapped. I navigated around aircraftspruce a bit and came across these http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/infinity-switchcaps.php They look like what I'm searching for. The button clicks just like the old HI/LOW beam button on the floorboard of your old cars and trucks. Does someone have a J model IPC they could send me or perhaps I'll give Dan at LASAR another call tomorrow.

I've got a 1976 F with a "Map Lite" button on the right grip of the pilot's yoke which turns on the small light bulb socket under the pilot yoke only. There was a little plastic snap on cover piece but it broke and now there's only the sharp metal plunger sticking out. I've been looking all over but can't seem to find one anywhere in the Illustrated Parts Catalog or online anywhere. I can't be the only one who has one of these and a quick call to the folks at LASAR confirm it's not original to that model Mooney. I briefly searched the logbooks for a signoff with the repair station who wrapped the yokes in leather since LASAR said they were probably the ones who installed the map lite button and plate but I came up empty handed. Any help locating one would be greatly appreciated! -Kyle

Marauder you come through once again! I should've known to look at the antenna in the book. Guess I must have missed that one. I've been busy studying for my instrument check ride and I wanted to have the correct answer for my examiner next week. Thanks again!

I will agree with Jrwislon on this one. I have a pair of Bose A20's and I can hear the aural alert during all phases of flight with the noise cancelling turned on. Most importantly, I hear it when I hit my minimums/DA on precision approaches. DEFINITELY a nice upgrade! Mine doesn't seem to like the cold weather though, as the beeps seem slower but still activate when 200ft above or below. On a side note, does anybody know how the HSI initializes your heading? Is it via a flux gate or coupled to the GPS somehow? I can't seem to find the answer to this question anywhere!

I've been looking for the answer to this question for a while now but what's the input for the HSI on the Aspen PFD? I've worked on other aircraft which have flux gates but I can't find any information about there even being one on Aspen's website, in the manual or around the internet. Hoping you can help with the answer so I might have that information for my examiner when I go to take my instrument check ride. Thanks!

Recently swung the compass on my '76 F model and the clear polycarbonate piece that holds the correction card to the center post is crazed and hard to see through. To my best measuring guess it's a piece of 7/8" OD X 3/4" ID X 1/16" thick tubing that has been cut to make the the C-shape. Any idea where a guy can find tubing like this or have a better suggestion on where to mount the correction card? I've searched eBay and Amazon.com and major online plastic companies but haven't had much luck yet. Figured I'd turn to the experts. The compass face plate is far too small to put it there and I'd rather not put it on the glareshield.

My aircraft has several nutplates with screws through the back of them that are "supposed" to aim the beam. I found them to be very rather chincy and the nutplate rivets kept breaking out from all the vibration. I decided to go a different route since the metal ring behind the bulb was almost chaffed through by the screws (once again, from all the vibration). Following a suggestion from a guy at LASAR, I took some pieces of engine baffling and silicone/fusion taped that around the bulb in meticulous places to help reduce the vibration and better aim the beam. Our bulbs have been working for more than a year now without any problems. Aparently some guys change landing light bulbs more than once per year if they're using the regular incandescent ones.

I'm thinking a taxi AND a landing bulb would be a pretty sweet combination. Unless two landing lights would be better. Thoughts?

The results are in. For what it's worth guys, listen to your engine monitor. Our JPI was telling us that the exhaust truly was hot and as it turns out our #2 cylinder was out of round by .0045 inches. That's right at the serviceable limit per Lycoming but our engine shop trued up the cylinder to a closer tolerance than that and our issue is now GONE! I have no idea why it showed up so suddenly but I guess the increased tolerance allowed excessive amounts of oil get past the rings and into the combustion chamber during high RPM operations. We never saw an increase in oil consumption but the JPI told no lie; the exhaust really was hot. Keep in mind the cylinder peaked at the same time as it usually did when finding peak, only it was 150-175 degrees higher than normal. I can only assume running the cylinder like that for an extended period of time would have caused more headaches such as a burned valve or something along those lines. So in summary, listen to your engine monitor and if you rule out all the easy culprits like fuel, intake air and ignition, don't be afraid to pull the cylinder and have your engine shop look at it. Thanks again for all your help. You're all what make Mooneyspace GREAT! -Kyle

I too have been interested in upgrading to the Parmetheus LED bulbs for my F model. My particular Mooney has the oil cooler relocation mod and in it's place a second landing light. Talk about an electricity hog! Two of the GE4537 bulbs add up to a whopping 200 Watts or dang near 15 amps! I'm wondering which bulb (landing/taxi) or combination would be best to buy. Also, have they come down in price lately or are they still around $300?

I know it's been a while but after exhausting all the possible external causes for our high EGT issue, we finally took our bird to the engine shop. Our main reason for choosing to do so was a constant puddle of oil noted at the bottom of the intake tube and oily spark plugs. It's not burning enough oil to notice it on the dipstick but with the elevated EGT and CHT we decided it was time. I made one last call to Lycoming just to see what they thought and they agree that there's just enough oil getting into the cylinder from somewhere to be causing our issue. The question now though is WHERE. I'm hoping that it's from the scraper/oil control ring or perhaps a slightly worn valve guide and not a small crack somewhere in the cylinder head but time will tell. Fingers crossed we don't need a new jug I'm supposed to be hearing from the shop sometime tomorrow and I'll be sure to let you all know what has been causing our issue. Thanks for all the suggestions and troubleshooting advice during this long and treacherous journey. Hopefully we'll have the old girl back up and flying by the end of the week! -KJ

Very interested in the cell switch much like this one from sporty's. http://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/review/product/list/id/4822/ Just wondering if anybody has had issues getting a decent signal inside their hangar. I know that our metal t-hangar doesn't get the best 3G or 4G LTE signal with my smartphone but I can recall someone saying they used a special extension cord so they could mount the antenna outside/on top of their hangar. Has anyone else heard of this or tried it with great success? Also, I'm curious if T-Mobile is the best/cheapest route to go for service. Any help/input would be greatly appreciated!

Muffler looks good inside. Couldn't snake the borescope in the spark plug hole and then through the exhaust port. I did stick the borescope up the tailpipe and both piccolo tubes appear undamaged and unobstructed. As usual, the cylinder and spark plugs look wet with oil. The intake valve seems to be wet with oil as well. That would explain the trace of oil down in the intake tube that I keep seeing with the borescope and perhaps our higher EGT. That's just one mans opinion here though. What do you guys think? Time for the wobble test on the valve/valves? http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36683-2-and-4-spark-plugs/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36682-2-and-4-spark-plugs/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36684-2-intake-valve/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36685-2-intake-valve/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36686-2-intake-valve/