Chris Strube

For Yetti...it was left on the glareshield in the hottest part of summer, and its bulging all around. I can't get the screws out to see if any parts are salvageable. None of the lights go on when power is connected. I'd say it's perished, gone to meet its maker. For EricJ...Amazon won't send to my address, even though it's a physical address, and not a PO Box. For bigmo...I'll check out the Sentry Mini, thanks.

1965 M20E, at annual, my Dukes fuel pump is dripping. Can the seals and/or o-rings and/or gaskets be replaced? What are my options? Any and all help appreciated, and free advice paid for with a nod and a wink.

My Flightbox ADS-B receiver, which I built from a kit in 2007, has finally died. Does anyone have a Flightbox or Stratux for sale, maybe from an upgrade?

The gills and the front scoop were added to my 65 E, when I had the turbo installed.

My Mooney logo ball cap is getting threadbare, and I can't find another like it. I bought it many years ago from MAPA, now sadly gone. I don't like the one from Sporty's, wrong shape for my square head. Suggestions please.

Thanks, I've asked my rebuilder to get back to me. I'll let you know if they want to go this route.

Thanks, I've sent them an email.

I need a new, rebuilt, or rebuildable cylinder for my 1965 M20E with Lycoming IO360A1A. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.

OK, thanks all for the reality check. I knew all that, but lust is hard to let go of. To answer a question, it is a turbo, and it works well. It holds max allowable 27inches to FL180, and still gives me 24 inches at FL220. The last piece of my puzzle will be a good engine monitor, after I finish paying for the new engine and turbo rebuild. Taxes in BC are only on the sale, not annual property taxes as they are in California.

I have a perfectly good plane, a 1965 M20E, that's been modified heavily. I can land and depart a 1500ft grass field, climb non-stop to FL180 in 20 minutes, then cruise at about 180KTAS for 5 hours. It's old school, but fully IFR, with 3 axis Brittain autopilot that works well. It's comfortable for the 2 of us, with a nice interior. Why then, am I constantly looking at M20M TLS Bravo's? I'm probably too old to learn a glass panel, but my brain refuses to quit looking at shiny new things. Free advice is worth everything you pay for.

1965 M20E turbo. I'm removing my "through the window" OAT probe, and have installed an AV-30. Where is the best place for an electronic OAT probe?

1965 M20E turbo. I'm removing my "through the window" OAT probe, and have installed an AV-30. Where is the best place for an electronic OAT probe?

The turbo didn't seem to affect the heat output. Max heat output to the front is WAY too hot to handle, so I have to juggle the controls to make it bearable. I have the same problem with defrost being anemic.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll check the louvered outlets first. I may be chasing an impossibility, as I've seen OATs in the -50C range. My most northerly office is in Norman Wells, NWT (CYVQ), and I've flown there in winter!

Thanks for this. I had a "Spatial Interior" installed a few years ago, and all the heater ducts had their furbish replaced. Heat makes it's way back, but it's overwhelmed by that pesky cold draft.

My heater works well, but the back seat is a meat locker. I've replaced door and baggage hatch seals, and can't feel any air infiltration from either during flight. However, a cold draft from somewhere keeps the back seat, and the backs of our necks very cold. We regularly fly above FL180, so it's a real concern. Has anyone found a cure for this problem? thanks in advance...

What’s the friendliest airport near Durango? Going in June to ride the rails.

I had a NOS Rajay installed 2 years ago. It completely changes the E. I can still use 1500 ft grass strips, but can also climb to FL190 in 20 minutes. In the summer heat, I might have to reduce climb to 500fpm above 14,000. I show 135 KIAS at 10 GPH above FL180, which is about 180 KTAS. The manual wastegate is fiddly, and I have to be very careful not to overboost, as there's no pop-off valve. Lots of money to throw at an old 1965 E, but I enjoy the plane more. Once travel opens up, we'll be back to some of our favourite places, which happen to be in Texas. San Antonio and Austin are top of the list.

Clarence, are you still wrenching? I was flying in the Arctic islands in the 80's when we met in Kitchener.

But Clarence, you are your own AME!

Can anyone supply a post maintenance checklist? My '65E should be ready on Monday for a test flight after a new engine, overhauled turbo, and annual inspection. thanks,

I've decided to install the CGR-30P. I've found a good price here in Canada. My engineer is confident that it's in his comfort zone to do the install. He knows the plane well, and did the Rajay install. However, I'm a little uncomfortable paying for a learning curve. I'l be replacing all the legacy gauges, including the Garvin cluster, the tach, the MP/FP, the EGT, the OAT, etc. Any ideas on install time and cost?

My engine recently swallowed an exhaust valve, destroying the cylinder and the Rajay turbo. I'd like to get an engine monitor to maybe head this off in the future. I need direction, as I know nothing about engine monitors. My 1965 E has the original cluster gauge, original MP/FP gauge, and a single EGT. I also have a Shadin fuel flow. I remember the customer dissatisfaction with JPI from a few years ago, and am considering an Electronics International CGR-30P, which is certified for primary replacement. I welcome all opinions, and will keep in mind that I get what I pay for. Thanks in advance...

The biggest difference between a Walter 601 and a PT6, is the price. The Walter is almost a direct copy, but 1/4 the price.

Love either of these, but they're both WAY too expensive. Walter turbines are cheap compared to RR, Garrett or P&W. As a thought experiment, the only sane thing is to forget it and keep my '65E Turbo...however!!!