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Update, the belly pan came off and the chain was sitting there with the connector link missing its retainer lock thingie. With the help of this group I was able to find a replacement connector link on Amazon. I showed it to my mechanic and he said that will work perfectly. I got four of them for five dollars. It has to be the cheapest aircraft part I’ve ever bought. I have three now available for sale at $250 each if anybody needs one.

And not IFR current too… -Don

Hi. First time 1969 Mooney M20C owner. I would like to take it to facility familiar with Mooneys to have gear checked out. The rubber biscuits are ancient, stamped 3-68! (date?) Anybody have any recommendations of facility in Fla?

and we wonder why insurance rates are on the rise

"The pilot had cardiovascular disease, including moderate coronary artery disease, an implanted pacemaker/defibrillator, and mitral valve replacement. The pilot’s medical certificate had expired 6 years before the accident. In 2019 he began flying under the provisions of BasicMed, which is an alternate way for pilots to fly without holding an FAA medical certificate. The pilot’s history of mitral valve replacement would have required a special issuance medical certificate for BasicMed. No such issuance was obtained; therefore the pilot did not possess valid medical certification for the flight"

If you're planning on getting out of flying, yes, but if you're planning on replacing it you'll be paying the same market pricing for whatever you buy.

@mooniac58, seems to be a problem with Donations

Just tried to donate & when I click on submit, it goes back to the donate window. Tried twice, but don't intend to make multiple donations...

Before you jump to a starter adapter - how old is your battery? Mine did this and I started worrying about a starter adapter problem. I changed the battery instead. Problem disappeared. My assumption is that if the battery can't put out enough cranking power, it might do this.

You have a King KLN89 GPS installed. If you want to go cheap-cheap, since a lot of these are on the market you could slide in a KLN89B or KLN94, which are both "approach certified", but not WAAS. You would probably need new coaxial, new antenna, paperwork, etc. That being said, here's why I wouldn't do that. Every penny you spend on that you will never get back and it won't accomplish what you want for your end goal - WAAS approaches Even if you can't do it immediately and you need to save up for it, do the WAAS GPS and HSI together on the same install. The 175 will do what you want, but here's why I would consider getting a 375 with the transponder built in. 1) Your King KT76 transponder has a cavity tube which will go out eventually and unplanned - then you're faced with doing it. 2) you will have ads-b in/out on the same device and be able to see traffic & weather on your route plus it will bluetooth that info out to your tablet 3) no matter what you do with your panel later, the 375 will stay and will have freed up some space. With your round instruments already and the increased capability I would get the GI275 indicator. It will be much less expensive to do it together than separately and with the SVT option will make your instrument training much easier. Also when you do it together the installer has to make sure everything he touches works together. Doing it twice, when something doesn't work, will get blamed on the previous install - even if it was done by another person at the same shop.

What Skip said. Also, I have caught myself reflexively hitting that button in order to transmit. They are close together, feel the same, and in turbulence it is a possibility.

You can do a GPS install with an old school CDI. One CAP C-182 I fly has this setup. There is a switch to change the CDI input from the nav/com to GPS. BUT, an HSI is such a much better instrument you will be happy if you put one in.

The leather care should be matched to the type of leather. Different methods of curing and finishing changes the best way to treat.

https://saphir.com/products/renovateur

How do you know it’s on the back of the engine? The exhaust heat muff looks soaked. Oil gets everywhere when there is airflow through the cowl. Everything must be thoroughly cleaned. When looking for the source, do not limit your focus to the rear of the engine.

Did you reach out to Mike Elliott? 317-371-4164. Great group of CFI's he has.

looking at your panel you look pretty good, a 175 and a new G5/ GI-275 sill set you up nicely. I believe the CDI you have would be compatible btw. as you have 2x nav/comms already you could even go a gnx375 for adsb-in(i'd probably do this ) keep the dme, mine saved me on my checkride. DPE failed my gps, asked what i would do now, expecting me to start timing. instead, i just pointed at the DME, landed the plane and walked away IR rated.

Sure, you can use what you have. But I'd seriously consider the GI275 if you do upgrade. And rather than the GPS175, might I suggest you look at the GNC355. You'd then be swapping out one of your Nav/Comms with a GPS Nav/Comm And you'd have the second original Nav/Comm for VOR/ILS/LOC as needed.

I have leather yokes on my m20j. Can anyone recommend what to put on the leather to keep it looking great.

@cliffy Decided to go another route than drilling. Since the PC system is inop, I'll utilize the opening directly above the clock that the PC trim knob used to occupy and install the PTT there. It's easier to operate the PTT there than the other two options that were originally considered. The paint shop is stripping the yokes, filling the opening where the PC disconnect originally was and repainting the yokes black. Kind of a unique solution given I've never seen it done before, but it works for me.

Fly Boomer, THANK YOU!!!!

G5 and GNC 355 (COM)/375 (Transponder/ADSB) are good options. i have dual G5s and GNC355, kept the BK 155 and indicator…

One other thought: When was the last time you checked the suction screen in the sump? There might be some carbon in there reducing the flow rate slightly that might have an effect on oil pressure. Draining the oil might have migrated some carbon to the sump where it was picked up in the screen. This is just a spitball thought, though.

I'd tend to agree that unless it does something really outrageous to just keep an eye on it and see what it does after the next oil change. If it goes back to what it was, ok, if it stays with what it's doing now, maybe that's just the evolution of how the engine behavior is trending. Engine monitor data and oil analysis may be useful.

https://www.saf-air.com/products/oil-valves/oil-valve-chart.html Not sure what you mean by stripped. If the threads are damaged in the sump, it might be a bigger issue. But this is unlikely unless it was removed and cross threaded.