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Posts posted by rgaines
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1. I have a 1962 model and the step is manual. I usually just leave it up at all times.
2. I see no way how removing a step could add any speed so long as you fly with the step retracted. The weight gain by removing a step is minimal and I do not see how that could add to any measurable speed.
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Paint to be done by Mozles Paint at Johnson County Exec. airport (OJC) in Olathe Kansas. Interior by Stich works at the same airport.
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Used the Lasar Window. The window install took about 40 hours. The mechanic Raul Bueno did a great job and did the 201 window, 1 piece belly, flap and aileron gap seals, hinge gap seals, the dorsal fin and verticle fairing and the wing root fairings, we installed the new style ELT, and side air vents for the pilot and co-pilot and reversed the brake calipers. When we did the 201 window install we moved some components so they would be easier to reach including the brake fluid intake and the regulator for the vacuum pump. We pulled out all the interior except for the seats ready for a full redo inside. Also replaced the cowl sheet metal screws with recessed 100 degree machine screws for a far tighter fit.
Here is a picture of the plane with all mods installed and ready for the paint and interior shop.
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I also installed a sky-tec starter and it now works great. One issue however. Initially I purchased a rebuilt starter. If looked great on the outside, however after it was installed it did not work. My mechanic said the problem had to be the starter. I found it hard to believe however as usual he was right. When he removed the starter and took it apart the entire inside was corroded and in terrible condition. I called the factory and sent pictures. They replaced the rebuilt starter with a new one at no additional charge, however I had to eat about $300 in cost for my mechanic to instal and replace the starter and to figure out the problem.
IN any event, this starter with new solinoids starts that engine immediately with no problems.
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Quote: GeorgePerry
Looks like it off to a good start. Who's doing the work? Keep us posted!
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I have an M20C with the old style bench seat. It seems to me that the bench seat could fold down and simply hinge on the lower two brackets and be held in in place by some movable latch at the two brackets higher up on the back of the seat.
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I am in the middle of a major mod project for my M20C. Did you obtain the field approval on the fold down read seat. I have a M20C and want the seat to fold down. It seems like an easy mod. How did you do this?
Thanks
RObert Gaines
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Here are some pictures of the brake caliper reversal and tail and dorsal fin fairings. Also someone asked who was doing the work. His name is Raul Bueno from Kansas City. He has done an excellent job.
We still need to complete the 201 window install and the flap gap seals and side window installation. I will continue to keep you posted.
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I have started a major modification to my 1962 M20C. I will be installing a 201 window, wing fairings, tail root and dorsal fin fairings, aileron and flap gap seals, brake caliper reversal and new side vents. I already have a cowl closure and a IFR panel. We will also be installing new glass, new paint and interior upgrades. I have enclosed some pictures to document the project. I will try to post updates as the project continues.
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Well I made my decision too. I purchased the SWTA 201 window modification but also purchased from SWTA the Mooney window cowl retainer as we believe it will fit and look better than the fiberglass one from SWTA. I also purchased a variety of other modifications from LASAR (want to spread the business around) and also purchaed a new 406 ELT which we all will need later. Installing it at this time will permit me to install same under the new dorsal fin modification.
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It does not seem to follow that the SWTA access is in front of the fire wall. THat conversion is ment to be able to access the instruments through the 2 front access panels. All the articles I have read say the is instrument access through the 2 access panels. The SWTA installation does not look as neat as the OEM Mooney installation sold by Lasar, however the SWTA access panels is a major advantage. Therefore my question to all is if anyone has seen both types of installations - which one are preferred.
Thanks RGaines
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Has anyone compared the SWTA window modification to the factory modification sold by Lasar? Do they look the same? What about access to the instrument panel? I am considering a 201 window modification to my M20C and have not decided which type of window to install.
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On cross country trips I will run the tank to near dry and until the fuel pressure drops and then switch tanks. This way I will know my exact range and fuel flow on that particular flight based on current tempurature and altitude. I also run a timer on each tank so I know approximately when it will run dry so I can plan on switching the tank when the fuel pressure drops. I never have run competely dry to the point where the engine stops, though on a few occasions the engine ran rough - once I switched tanks with the fuel pump on then no big deal.
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Thanks for the information. I go to K81 all the time. I already have the cowl closure and found it worked as claimed and am now considering doing the SWTA 201 window modification. Just checking around to see if others found it to add some mph. Thanks
Rgaines
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I have a 1962 Mooney. I am considering various modifications, including the 201 Window upgrade and various gap seals etc. Does anyone have any before and after experience with any speed modification to know whether the expected speed increases are correct? I did the cowl modification and it worked as advertised with a 3-4 mph speed increase. I am planning to paint my airplane and do an interior renovation.
Thanks
1966 20E
in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Posted