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rgaines

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Posts posted by rgaines

  1. I have a 1962C which is substantially the same as the 1965E.

    1.  I suggest doing a full annual instead of a pre buy. Try to find a mooney experienced mechanic.

    2.  I have recently done a number of mods and a new paint job + interior replacement and found absolutely no rust.  When doing this work we also did a SB208.  I suggest in conjunction with the pre buy at least doing a modified SB208 and look for rust under the insulation - especially if you have the old pink factory insulation. Removed the bottom panels and look at the tubing on the underside of the airplane.

    3.  My mechanic likes using corrosion x .  A mooney has a lot of inspection plates and I suggest a corrosion x treatment. If is not very expensive and is good insurance against rust.

    4.  Fuel re-seal is not complicated but is time consuming. If properly done it will last many years. But it is an issue in Mooneys so look for this problem in your pre buy.

    5.  No problems with the Johnson bar at all. Never had any issues with control rods.  I believe there is an AD issued some time ago on control rods though I am sure your plane has satisfied the AD.  

    6. I really like the speed mods available for Mooneys and suggest them to you if you can afford it.  If you can only do one modification then do the cowl closure.

    7. I am not sure about 9 gal per hour. But you should get between 9 and 10.

    8.  You should have no transition problems to a Mooney.  The only thing to look for is excess speed on landings.  If you come in too hot you will float.

    9.  At 5'9' 180 lbs you will fit perfectly.  I am 6'3" and have pleanty of leg room, though it is a little tight side to side. But still it is comfortable.

    10.  Suggestions if not already done:  replace the generator with an alternator, make sure the AD hartzell propeller hub is in compliance, install three point seat belts, modify with the cowl closure.
  2. Used the Lasar Window.  The window install took about 40 hours.  The mechanic Raul Bueno did a great job and did the 201 window, 1 piece belly, flap and aileron gap seals, hinge gap seals, the dorsal fin and verticle fairing and the wing root fairings, we installed the new style ELT, and side air vents for the pilot and co-pilot and reversed the brake calipers.  When we did the 201 window install we moved some components so they would be easier to reach including the brake fluid intake and the regulator for the vacuum pump. We pulled out all the interior except for the seats ready for a full redo inside. Also replaced the cowl sheet metal screws with recessed 100 degree machine screws for a far tighter fit.


    Here is a picture of the plane with all mods installed and ready for the paint and interior shop.

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  3. I also installed a sky-tec starter and it now works great.  One issue however.  Initially I purchased a rebuilt starter.  If looked great on the outside, however after it was installed it did not work.  My mechanic said the problem had to be the starter.  I found it hard to believe however as usual he was right.  When he removed the starter and took it apart the entire inside was corroded and in terrible condition.  I called the factory and sent pictures.  They replaced the rebuilt starter with a new one at no additional charge, however I had to eat about $300 in cost for my mechanic to instal and replace the starter and to figure out the problem. 


    IN any event, this starter with new solinoids starts that engine immediately with no problems.

  4. I have started a major modification to my 1962 M20C.  I will be installing a 201 window, wing fairings, tail root and dorsal fin fairings, aileron and flap gap seals, brake caliper reversal and new side vents.  I already have a cowl closure and a IFR panel.  We will also be installing new glass, new paint and interior upgrades.  I have enclosed some pictures to document the project. I will try to post updates as the project continues.   

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  5. Well I made my decision too.  I purchased the SWTA 201 window modification but also purchased from SWTA the Mooney window cowl retainer as we believe it will fit and look better than the fiberglass one from SWTA.  I also purchased a variety of other modifications from LASAR (want to spread the business around) and also purchaed a new 406 ELT which we all will need later. Installing it at this time will permit me to install same under the new dorsal fin modification.  

  6. It does not seem to follow that the SWTA access is in front of the fire wall. THat conversion is ment to be able to access the instruments through the 2 front access panels.  All the articles I have read say the is instrument access through the 2 access panels.  The SWTA installation does not look as neat as the OEM Mooney installation sold by Lasar, however the SWTA access panels is a major advantage.  Therefore my question to all is if anyone has seen both types of installations - which one are preferred. 


    Thanks  RGaines

  7. On cross country trips I will run the tank to near dry and until the fuel pressure drops and then switch tanks.  This way I will know my exact range and fuel flow on that particular flight based on current tempurature and altitude.  I also run a timer on each tank so I know approximately when it will run dry so I can plan on switching the tank when the fuel pressure drops.  I never have run competely dry to the point where the engine stops, though on a few occasions the engine ran rough - once I switched tanks with the fuel pump on then no big deal.  

  8. I have a 1962 Mooney.  I am considering various modifications, including the 201 Window upgrade and various gap seals etc.  Does anyone have any before and after experience with any speed modification to know whether the expected speed increases are correct?  I did the cowl modification and it worked as advertised with a 3-4 mph speed increase.  I am planning to paint my airplane and do an interior renovation. 


    Thanks


     


     


     

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