meddesign

when looking at the graph of the Stewart Warner vs callouts of Rochester I see the same resistances thank you very much for the Stewart Warner PDF I was trying to find specifications and was not successful

The printed latch creeped so I added an aluminum stiffener.....Works well

Here is a good example of Creep in a plastic part with my first print of ABS ....I have swapped out to the fiber reinforced one ....maybe it will do better....however this one was still working and probably would have been fine ...

Onshape shown in a previous post 7/21/23...Mooneyspace does not number the posts

I have been learning this new cad program for 6 mo. so it was a good excuse to use it

I had ordered a part from someone in State College because I did not know if my friend would be able to print my model. I got it and it is by far the best I have seen ....except for the hole closing in it is close to perfect... It was printed with carbon fiber laced abs that bambu labs offers......

back is most important as that is against the window and vent...somewhat difficult to hold while drilling to get a square hole I like the white better than my black Mine seems to be holding up in the heat my bird lives outside but there is a cover......and only the 90's

I up loaded to printables Vent Latch let me know how it turns out and what you think is the best material....I did ABS and seems could be more stiff but works I might ask for one better.... if you still have problems PM your e-mail

well as far as I know both are free if you find the right link I will try to upload the links to each ....certainly the first tries to get money but had not known about problems as HBA I certainly can up load to another site post the links....I also will try what you said and if successful will post Homebuilt Aircraft & Kit Plane Forum (homebuiltairplanes.com) ignore the premium membership just hit register in the upper RH of page Onshape Free Plan | Onshape search Vent Latch

they sell a piper one and the clear generic one which look to be about the same size....I checked the piper one and it is not as long as the Mooney one and there was some question on my mind as to if the Piper one would work it was much shorter in length rather than the 1 1/2" long ones we have......so I drew the 3D model.

easy to understand .....just sanding edges and drilling the hole to proper size I probably have 1/2 hr. labor and with today's shop rates that is one expensive part. ..of course if I had a printer I could massage the 3D model and in theory there would be no secondary operations......but right now I am pretty happy....I checked it after a real warm day and it might have bent a little but it is still tight against the vent window......The ABS seemed a little rubbery as I was drilling it and perhaps PLA might work better or any of the fiber filled materials.......

Accepted file types: jpg, gif, png, pdf, jpeg are you sure?

k not sure why you did not see anything perhaps you need to go in from the front and the link will not work but with the screen shot you should be able to find the post and as soon as I get your pm I will send it

It would be better if Mooneyspace allowed .stl files but given the utter ugliness of this site with all the advertisements I doubt they the will change the software

here is what you should see .....you may have join to download I am not sure but it is free to join I can email you the file

owner produced parts it is legal, .....selling them as Mooney part not....unless you are Mooney ......solution would be to sell them to Mooney ....you could make a small fortune in aviation. Does anyone from the factory watch Mooneyspace? I am out of the loop is there still a Mooney factory/company If they use my model maybe they will send me a sticker or one of the new parts as a souvenir,

I am not sure if PLA would be more stiff.....or will be more stable in the heat...I do not have a printer .....so let us know how it turns out in AZ It looks like the original is Nylon....there are many options as regard fiber filled and different materials....if you have a printer it could occupy you for many satisfying hours.....

https://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/threads/3d-printing-in-the-homebuilt-world.32290/post-775542 you can get the STL here

My pre-1970 manufactured vent latch broke....no stock.....I had this printed ....I had to open up the holes as they closed in. It was done in ABS and I do not know how well it will hold up or if in a hot cabin outside it will creep. (move/flex) ....Mooney space will not allow me to attach the .STL file so you can go to Onshape and download it https://cad.onshape.com/documents/73637310336989c3f7b62652/w/886c172500534c2234d29d0e/e/0ce834d1e10a5aa8743911b9 VENT LATCH 1.pdf

well dodged a bullet I think....was going through the Sky-tec starter trouble shoot sheet and found a loose nut on the starter solenoid...it had a split washer that the sharp ends had worn away because of vibration, and the nut was loose and somewhat burned....changed to a star washer and tightened all the nuts from the battery forward including grounds.....I guess I will find out if that was the only problem.

looking at mine today .....the mechanic probably was trying to remove it without dropping the lower cowl.....

thought of cleaning all the various connections from battery to starter, then using conductive copper grease.....I can not remember when I did that last and seems to me I got a new battery last year only to find out the old one was still serviceable.....I did not think of it last year......so a friend suggested I use the battery/electric troubleshooting guide before I do anything to see if there is something wrong and if there was improvement. While cranking measured 8.9 V and after three blades it was 10 V... tomorrow I will clean terminals to see if it is better and call Sky-Tech to see about discrepancies as to listed starters, also call a local starter guy and ask about replacing the starter drive on the boat anchor. Everybody seems to like the Sky-tec.....but I do see posts like "another failed Sky-tec.....and reference to "anti-kickback protection"....not sure if it is an issue with the Prestolite.....Also the baffle mods,possible tab removal, possible wire extension....did you have to extend the wire when you installed your 149--12HT. or remove tabs. Spruce says 149-NL but fitment reference on Sky-tec site does not list that starter for the E....

waiting for you to invent the automatic starter mixture control.

One mechanic friend likes them, another says 10 sec crank time is not good, I have read of burned out ones....My bird is a minimum of 9 blades on a hot start (no need to talk about that had it for 13 yrs) ....my Prestolite bendex has been intermittent of late its 10 years since OH.....Those of you that like it is your hot start better than mine and those of you that have had problems is it from long cranking? 1970 E

Just fixed a black display for a "friend/experimental". The connectors on the panel and on the main board where the front slides in.........are soldered tabs to the top of the boards. (not through holes as one would expect). These tabs needed the to be re-soldered, there were cracked solder at the board. Not unreasonable after 20 years. You will need a very small pencil soldering iron (radio shack), a very good light, Lupe or magnifying glass and know what to look for, can't find them do them all you have nothing to lose, unless Garmin will repair and not just say "bad display" "too bad". Good luck.