Kytulu

Manual gear. We haven't put it up on jacks yet, as the airplane did not come with the jack pads that go in the tiedown bolt holes.

50/up is an immediate "find the leak" for me. The most common is a sticking exhaust valve. The second most common is leaking piston rings.

I found the download section. I'm working on an E model.

The way to fix that is to write the repair action in such a way that the discrepancy is identifiable. For example: "Removed #1 Cyl oil return line and replaced rubber connecting line to correct oil leak. Reinstalled #1 Cyl oil return line. Performed engine run and verified no leaks present."

I am the new-to-Mooney A&P/IA, which is why I am here to source this awesome information! We spent a few hours today fixing some of the things found during the pre-buy inspection, and making a list of parts to order to fix the rest. I definitely don't want to go mucking about with flight control rigging without verifying that adjustments are neccessary. I've already been down that road with a 172S that started with adjusting the rudder cable rod ends, later proceeded to replacing one rudder return spring, which resulted in readjusting the rod ends and bending the trim tab. The pilot mentioned that just keeping his foot on the rudder negates the roll. To me, after reading the info in your post, it seems that it is either doing the "Mooney Roll," or a very slight adjustment of the rudder trim tabs will solve the issue if it is not doing the Mooney Roll. I plan to discuss with him exactly what it is doing, or going up with him to observe the roll, so see if any adjustment is even neccessary. Side question: Why do Mooneys roll to the left?

A pilot friend of mine just bought a Mooney, and he is reporting a tendency to roll to the left. Being that the travel boards are apparently made of Unobtanium, can the rigging angles in the service manual be verified with a digital protractor?

Side question- did you buy or locally manufacture the test plate mentioned in the SB? I ask because Aircraft Spruce lists it for a little over $3K for what looks like a 1/2" aluminum plate with some holes drilled in it.

The last time that I had an issue like this, on a Piper Seminole, the flyweights in the prop governor were overpowering the spring. We couldn't duplicate the issue on the ground, and it only happened during flight. We verified that it was the prop governor by installing a different "known good" governor and sending the plane on a MX flight. We sent the PG out for overhaul.

I am an A&P/IA at a flight school. We generally don't re-pack the bearings on our (Cessna and Piper) wheels during the 100hr or annual inspections because we go through so many tires, and every time a tire is changed, the wheel halves are split, cleaned, and inspected, and the bearings are pulled, cleaned, inspected, and repacked. If we notice something during the inspection, like an oddly worn tire or a wheel that doesn't feel right when turning, we will pull, disassemble, and inspect. If I was to do an annual inspection for a private owner, I would look at the overall flight time since the last annual, whether or not any of the tires had been changed since then, the overall condition of the wheels, if the aircraft is hangered or not, and then make a recommendation as to whether or not repacking the bearings was necessary.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around "2 hours to replace a Molex connector."