christaylor302

I am a DIY CB, but when the wife says your time is worth more than that and buys you shinny new things… [emoji2369] [emoji1787]

I really wanted to restore the original system but after a partial repair I decided to remove it. There were still many unknowns to be discovered in the PC, Accutrak and the rest of this project. I also found my AI and DG needed to be replaced. So I decided to remove the vacuum system and install a pair of AV30Cs. An AeroCruze 100 will probably be installed in a couple years after the wallet recovers from this resurrection project. [emoji1787]

I appreciate everyone's responses. This is all great information. I did have a great call with Kevin yesterday. So much knowledge and just a really nice person. Thank you taking my call Kevin! I've decided I'll take a wack at restoring the system. I do need the trim valve in the yoke, it's missing, and at least one aileron servo/boot. I still need to test the rest of the system to see if the other boots are ok. But if it becomes a PIA, I won't worry about just removing the system and going without. Maybe an Aerocruze 100 is in the future . Thank you everyone!

I’m restoring a ‘66 M20C with an Accu-Trak B11 installed. However the vacuum system is a mess and I don’t know if any of the Accu-Trak components work. It looks like some of the vacuum lines were cut away. I’m trying to decide if I should attempt to restore the Accu-Trak system, or remove it and the vacuum system. Maybe I try putting together a STEC system in the future? I plan on mostly VFR and some light IFR when required. I know there will be opinions on both sides, but I’m interested in hearing any suggestions or experience. How does a M20C handle without the Accu-Trak or PC system? I’m trying to keep the first wave of expenses within reason (LOL). This will not be an all Garmin glass plane. Thanks, Chris

I ordered a couple radios from https://www.bennettavionics.com/ and had a great experience. They were well packed and received ahead of schedule. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know a lot of work, calling, emailing, begging and pleading went into this. I’m grateful for everyone’s effort. Yes, several people are going to have their hand out and want their piece before it gets to us, but at least we will have an option now. Maybe other MSC’s or organizations like McFarlane can get in on the licensing deal and create a little competition. I’m just glad I won’t be stuck without any options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know a lot of work, calling, emailing, begging and pleading went into this. I’m grateful for everyone’s effort. Yes, several people are going to have their hand out and want their piece before it gets to us, but at least we will have an option now. Maybe other MSC’s or organizations like McFarlane can get in on the licensing deal and create a little competition. I’m just glad I won’t be stuck without any options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, you’ll need to disconnect the lead to the gauge so you only measure the resistance through the senders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The stock fuel senders are resistive. So you should be able to connect a Ohm meter and watch the value while swinging the float. There should be a smooth change in value from top to bottom. I don’t know the top and bottom of the range. But it should be a smooth sweep. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seems like this might be an Owner Produced Part using motorcycle inner tubes? Does anyone have more info, like what size inner tube to use or a template to share? I know I need at least one. I probably should redo them all if this is an option. Currently working on a restoration project. Thanks!

Yes, it’s not skilled work. Just messy, tedious around the rivets, a LOT of time, and resealing is also messy.

You might want to do one tank at a time. That way if it does turn into a s-show, you can fly it somewhere on the second tank.

I’m working on a restoration project so flying it somewhere to be done was not an option. There is also some pride in knowing I did it. But, if you fly regularly and the money is not going to bankrupt you, you might be better off having someone else do it. I suspect they’ll only have the plane for a week or so versus the months it took me working nights and weekends. I spent about $3,000 between the chemicals, tools and all the sealant. I followed the Mooney service manual for resealing. So far this is the hardest part of the restoration project. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m just finishing a complete strip and reseal of both tanks on a M20C. It’s definitely a labor of love. Polygone Gel and plastic scrapers worked best for me. Also some tile grout brushes work well, plastic bristle type. It will eat the paint if you let it sit on it. If you get some on the paint a quick rinse with a spray bottle of water and paper towels to wipe it up will save it. You need to mix up the bucket of Polygone Gel and keep it covered for best results. I used 3 5lbs buckets total. I also used a gallon of Klein Strip paint thinner (California version) that was labeled a MEK alternative. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk