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Wingover

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Everything posted by Wingover

  1. I saw it on their website. The issue is that I don't know if it is the gauge that is bad or something else.
  2. I noticed that my RPM gauge started to "fog" (see picture) on my last two flights, something it never did before. Today after 5 minutes of flying is stopped working but sometimes you could see the needle come back to life for a second. I use the JPI 830 and backup RPM. Plane is 1987 M20J 205. Before starting to troubleshoot, is this a mechanical or electrical sensor? Also, anyone else had this issue and can say what it is?
  3. Hi Andy, I just got back from flying so won't be at the hangar for a week. I basically cut and rounded the slider corner (per instructions) that is closer to the seal. When I closed the door and inflated the seal to get it to dry in place it conformed to the door shape. I will send pictures next week. Tal
  4. I didn’t. I used some tape to just hold it in place until I could quickly close the door and inflate it a bit to make sure it “moved” as in fill the gap between the airplane frame and door frame. The silicone glue that came with the kit doesn’t really hold the seal in place like superglue, you can move the seal for probably good 1/2 hour or more before the silicone cures.
  5. Went on an hour flight to test the seal. Happy to report an amazing difference in noise level, no more "hissing". What I did during the install was to glue it in place, shut the door (go out through the baggage door) and inflate it a bit to move around between the frame of the plan and door based on the pressure of the air. It seems that it paid off since I didn't need to realign it again. Very happy with the product! Thanks @tomgo2
  6. Yes, mine is 24-3028
  7. My electrical guy (not available for a few months) said there is an amplifier (my J is 28v) like this one: Mooney M20J TRANSDUCER AMPLIFIER P/N 950D0311-001 - 800331-984 FUEL PRESSURE AMP | eBay Here is the wiring diagram:
  8. @PT20J I can confirm that I have the RSA fuel servo. I also checked the voltage, and I have zero. A couple of days ago when I checked (while the transducer wires were connected as well), I saw 7v between the red and black but noting today. I understand that there is an amplifier between the gauge and transducer. Not sure how to check that....
  9. That’s $25 per hour flight…. For a part that probably cost them $20 to make? I get that it’s aviation and unique part but $2550 ??
  10. I’m wondering if leaving the mixture and throttle pushed in after shutdown can eliminate the pressure spike?
  11. I am not sure where you see the 3x safety margin. The link you provided is the 0-100 PSI transducer. Looking at mine (30 PSI) I could not find the info.
  12. I have a rebuilt engine but pretty sure it's RSA. I will be doing oil change tomorrow so will check again and let you know.
  13. I believe I have the RSA servo. It is interesting you mention that. The Omega tech support asked if there was a way to build pressure above 30 psi since that will kill the transducer.
  14. Thank you @PT20J as always! Could you please look at the attached and help me identify the pin numbers based on the wire colours?
  15. Hi All, My fuel pressure sender in my 1987 J stopped working a while ago so based on the reading here, bought the Omega (model PX309). It has worked fine but after a couple of months I noticed that it would not work or start fluctuating until it stopped completely. I checked the wire connections between the sender and harness going to the panel and it seems fine. Can someone tell me how to check if it is the sender, amplifier, broken wire or gauge?
  16. Looks like the bushing (guide) the rib is worn or missing?? Sometimes the tube might have a wrap around it for protection..
  17. The only difficulty I had was holding the seal in place on the forward part of the door, it kept sliding off. I managed to keep it in place after all. Doing an oil change so won’t get a chance to fly it until next week.
  18. Finished mine
  19. @LANCECASPER I just noticed that your door has a pin on the front side..see picture. My 1987 J doesn’t have it. What model was yours?
  20. Hi @tomgo2, Is it possible to get this (maybe PDF) by email or DM? I am not sure if I am missing the lower right part of your picture. I see the number 5 as 22" distance to where to drill but also see "5" at the bottom right of the picture but the rest of it is cut off.
  21. Thanks! Hoping others might have more information or pictures if the install (especially the grey hose)
  22. Sorry, I am talking about the little grey piece tube that is part of the seal itself. It has to somehow go inside the door frame.
  23. Looking for help from people who installed the Bob field seal on their M20J. I am specifically looking for help on where did you locate the little grey hose (that connects to the pump hose) that is part of the seal? Did you locate it down below the part of the door or on the side (closer to the hinge side)? Do you need to drill a hole to route it into the door? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Understand how to glue it and how to trim the plastic door cover if needed for space.
  24. Yes, I have no problem with Fiberglass work (used to do it for a living) I was just curious if the aluminum round plate was meant to fit into the rivets holes of the ram air intake that will be removed. I guess it is not I will fabricate a slightly larger one to go over the old main intake hole and rivets holes.
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