Wingover

I believe you can use the GPS for an ILS until the FAF but not 100% sure. Anyway, I can use the NAV (Garmin 255A) with the CDI to track the ILS down.

KAP 150 - Yes AP and G5 were there prior to the GPS175 install. AP (in heading mode) follows the heading bug on the G5 when I manually move it. Theoretically should it also follow the glideslop on the G5 when in approach mode?

I am more interested to see if the AP even reacts to the GPSS in any shape or form.

It’s Garmin 175 connected to G5 with GAD29B. I couldn’t get the GPSS option to come up on the G5 but after reading the installation instructions I made the changes and can activate it now. I was hoping to test on the ground first since you can’t make changes while flying and the weather is bad on top of that. My avionics shop in an hour flight from me and too busy right now. You say I need lots of space, do you mean taxing while testing? I meant stationary on the ground.

Hi All, Is it possible to test the GPSS on the ground or you have to fly it to see if it anticipates the turns? I can test the AP on the ground when I turn the heading bug and the AP turns but not sure about GPSS.

I will test it all next week when I get back to the hangar. It is not foggy all the time, it starts to fog during flight only, fine on the ground and only started doing that a week ago.

I saw it on their website. The issue is that I don't know if it is the gauge that is bad or something else.

I noticed that my RPM gauge started to "fog" (see picture) on my last two flights, something it never did before. Today after 5 minutes of flying is stopped working but sometimes you could see the needle come back to life for a second. I use the JPI 830 and backup RPM. Plane is 1987 M20J 205. Before starting to troubleshoot, is this a mechanical or electrical sensor? Also, anyone else had this issue and can say what it is?

Hi Andy, I just got back from flying so won't be at the hangar for a week. I basically cut and rounded the slider corner (per instructions) that is closer to the seal. When I closed the door and inflated the seal to get it to dry in place it conformed to the door shape. I will send pictures next week. Tal

I didn’t. I used some tape to just hold it in place until I could quickly close the door and inflate it a bit to make sure it “moved” as in fill the gap between the airplane frame and door frame. The silicone glue that came with the kit doesn’t really hold the seal in place like superglue, you can move the seal for probably good 1/2 hour or more before the silicone cures.

Went on an hour flight to test the seal. Happy to report an amazing difference in noise level, no more "hissing". What I did during the install was to glue it in place, shut the door (go out through the baggage door) and inflate it a bit to move around between the frame of the plan and door based on the pressure of the air. It seems that it paid off since I didn't need to realign it again. Very happy with the product! Thanks @tomgo2

Yes, mine is 24-3028

My electrical guy (not available for a few months) said there is an amplifier (my J is 28v) like this one: Mooney M20J TRANSDUCER AMPLIFIER P/N 950D0311-001 - 800331-984 FUEL PRESSURE AMP | eBay Here is the wiring diagram:

@PT20J I can confirm that I have the RSA fuel servo. I also checked the voltage, and I have zero. A couple of days ago when I checked (while the transducer wires were connected as well), I saw 7v between the red and black but noting today. I understand that there is an amplifier between the gauge and transducer. Not sure how to check that....