Zippy_Bird

Did it have a Brittain Accu-Flight (B-12) in it? I need a Panel Control Head/Switch to complete my system. Thanks, Z

Follow-up question... has anyone observed different measurement depending on where you "stick" your dip stick through the tank inlet (i.e. inboard, outboard, forward, aft, center)??? Next trip to the airport with my new stick, I'll definitely test this! Thanks, Z

I heard a rumor, a whisper on the wind, that someone found a replacement for these servo rubber boots. I have no proof of this, but I’d like to know if it is true and what. I have some useless servo cans sitting around. Mind you this would be for tinkering entertainment only and nothing that would ever go in a certified airplane. Would appreciate a PM if you know something! Thanks, Z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi @McMooney, Used Servos can be had on eBay but my experience has been mixed. I’ve bought some excellent ones with supple rubber, clean, and perfect function. I’ve also paid good money for dogs… dry, dirty, leaking, useless. I’ve found that if the listing does not specifically state “excellent condition” beware. It is also my opinion that if a pilot is selling they are usually in good shape, but if a scraper is selling, rubbish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If anyone is interested in removing the back seat in your short body to accommodate bike hauling “Man and a Mooney” has a great how-to video on YouTube. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi @Flyler, Just a quick link for feature comparison and price knowledge. This M20C is right up the road from me. I do NOT know the owner but I've seen it around on local ramps. She is slick looking! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/946176280502852/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks Welcome to MooneySpace and good luck with your hunt! Z

Hi All, Decided to mark-up a single fuel stick today based on the above measurements and had a question for the community. Two sticks came with my bird clearly marked R & L. I tried to seek guidance from the previous owner about this but was unable. The marks are sparse and not useful, but the question I have is are the two tanks so physically different (1966 M20E) as to call for two different calibrations, one stick per tank? I have yet to find a thread in the forums that supports this idea, yet the here they are. Thoughts welcome. Thanks, Z

Hi @hoot777, Also worth mentioning that Kevin Westbrook has come to an agreement with Porter-Strait instruments of Tulsa Oklahoma to allow rebuilding of instruments at that facility resulting in a “yellow tagged” final product. So in your case, he can service that b-11 head and provide the proper paper trail. This is for an additional cost to you, but in my opinion is reasonable. For me, my AP/IA is by-the-book. Therefore, as I move forward upgrading I’ll be running my used parts down this path, so everyone stays happy! Hope you and others find this information helpful! Cheers, Z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice!!! Thanks for the info @JoeM Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi @takair, Noted you said “added” brittain altitude hold. What is the year and make of the Mooney you modified. I have a 1966 M20E that has the basic wing leveler, but have been collecting parts and knowledge (Kevin Westbrook is a treasure) for planned a B-11 and B-12 upgrade. I am not familiar with the STCs but curious if altitude hold is possible for mine (via STC) or of that was only on the later 201’s? Thanks, Z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi All, Can anyone confirm the original shock-panel bend angle in degrees? I have the original shot-gun panel in my 1966 M20E, and am considering a new 3 1/8 inch digital instrument to install on the bottom row. The bottom row of this panel has a bend, such that instruments on that row are tilted upwards as opposed to the top row, where the original vacuum instruments are installed at what I assume is 90 degrees perpendicular to level flight. I would like to know the angle of this lower panel section in degrees, as one of the instruments I am considering requires that tilt angle measurement when placing the order. Other instrument choices require a calibration by the AP/IA at time of installation. Anyway, my crude measurements and geometry come up with 15 degrees tilt. Does anyone know definitively? Another way to couch this would be to say "What is the angle of the original radio stack and co-pilot panel?" as they are on the same angle. Thank-you! Z

The image Echo attached is bang-on, sans a firewall mounting bracket which I would like, but is not a deal breaker. If you have one I am happy to talk money. Thanks, Z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still looking... Thanks, Z

Hello @Echo, Thank you for your response. Is the photo you attached a Brittain "shunt" valve? Kevin informed me that these shunt valves are capable of performing the same vacuum control function as the BI-805, but I've never seen one. If that is the case, any particular reason why you choose not to use it in your pending B-11 and B-12 installation? Apologies to stick my nose in. I am trying to learn about these old Brittain systems and the installation/STC process. I have a good functioning LSA-2 (basic vacuum wing leveler) and I also possess the components for both the B-11 (Accu-Trak) and B-12 (Accu-Flight) systems... everything BUT a vacuum control valve which I thought could only be a BI-805. I think these systems are really cool, and if I can get one or both working in my bird I am gonna! Thanks, Z

Hi All, If you or someone you know has a brittan BI-805 servo control valve available for sale, please private message me. I’ve been watching eBay like a hawk and have been in regular contact with our friend Kevin W, to no avail. Would greatly appreciate some help finding this part! Thank you, zippy_bird

SOLD and SHIPPED! Thank-you for all the interest. Z

Anyone interested in this exhaust system for parts or repair? It has a significant (read dangerous) CO leak in the muffler heat shroud. Had I not bought a new LightSpeed Delta Zulu (with CO detector) when I did, you might have read about me in the news. If you don't have a CO detector in your plane, stop reading this and GO BUY ONE NOW! Anyway, the header pipes all look good to the naked eye. Considered having it repaired and tested, but lacking access to shops decided to install a new Power Flow instead. So, I need it out of my garage... as a whole. I will ship "FedEx Home Delivery" rates at buyers expense in a Power Flow box. Not looking to turn a buck here, I just don't want something that could be useful to others going to the scrapers. If you are interested just private message. Happy to answer questions and entertain offers. Thanks, Zach

Thank you All! I incorrectly attributed both rheostat knobs on the ceiling to one per map light. I was very WRONG. I did a retest in the dark hanger just know, one knob at a time. Every single one of the panel post lights work (all red bulbs) via control of the over head passenger (right) side rheostat control. The labels on the knobs tell all, but in my defense one has to contort forward and spin around to read them. I feel ridiculous, but happy! The forum saves the day again! Much Thanks, Zach

Thanks @Joshua Blackh4t, Thanks @47U! Going to the Airport now to test! Z

Hi All, Embarrassed to ask this question, but I have not been able to discover the answer on my own... "How do I control the post lights/instrument lighting" in my bird? This is a 1966 M20E Serial Number 1285. It has the original shot-gun panel but did receive some upgraded Bendix Avionics along the way. I have read through the POH multiple times, but only found mention of the pilot knee adjustable spotlight that illuminates the tank selector valve. I have a breaker labeled instrument lights and and there are post lights all over the panel. Did the original production provide control of these post lights OR were the post lights supposed to be ALWAYS ON? Is the barrel adjustment on the pilot knee spotlight maybe an on/off rheostat? Just looking for a starting point to troubleshoot my lights-out situation. BTW - the over head spotlights work fine! Thanks All, Zach

Hello @TheBearFlies My iPad mini is pilot-yolk mounted. The base attachment point is a RAM "tough-claw" that squeezes/pinches the horizontal arm of the yolk between the center and the outside vertical hand grips. I currently have my base clamped on the right side horizontal arm. The "tough-claw" has a 1" ball. I then attach a RAM 3" arm, which then connects back to a 1" ball on the back of the iPad mini mount. This setup could be reversed to the left side and to achieve the same result with opposite symmetry. This provides a ton of positioning options relative to the yolk. My optimal setup is iPad mini in landscape orientation, centered horizontally and vertically, as close as possible to the yolk itself. I then adjust tilt to get the best viewing angel. With both hands on the yolk, the screen is basically between my palms. Looks like an iPad mini sprouted yolk handles for ears! Best of luck on your setup! Z

Thank-you everyone for the information concerning function when in "good working order" and advice on troubleshooting and fixing. Now I am confident on where to look and what to expect when operating. My gratitude to the forum! Thanks, Z

Hi All, This past weekend my spouse and I flew two hours in our "new to us" 1966 M20E during which she complained of hot air bleeding into the cabin via the passenger side lower vent. I subsequently worked both the "Cabin Heater" and "Cabin Vent" controls but only managed to find the "melt your face" setting. With heater ON and vent OFF, it was crazy hot as expected. With heater OFF and vent ON, it was hot air. Not expected. With heater OFF and vent OFF hot air was still bleeding in just not as much. That was the best I could manage. For comparison, the pilot side left knee has an adjustable ball vent that blasts cool outside air into the cabin. It is very nice very cool air. The difference in temperature between these two sources is unmistakable. Question to the forum is this... With the Cabin Heater valve "OFF" and the Cabin Vent valve "ON" should I be getting air temperatures and air flow through the floor vents roughly comparable to the air coming in through the pilot's side ball valve? If so, then something is afoot with the air mixing that I need to go chase it down. On the other hand, if this is a "feature" of the 1966 M20E, then I'll move onto other squawks and and enjoy it during the winter! :-) Thanks, Zach

Hello Mplante23, Welcome to MooneySpace! I own a "new to me" 1966 M20E Super21 with Manual gear that I purchased earlier this year from Jimmy Garrison at GMAX Aircraft down in Texas. Can't say enough good things about Jimmy and my experience. When I sell or buy again, It will be with Jimmy. Definitely recommend reaching out to him and explaining your Mooney requirements. As to requirements, it is my opinion you should list and prioritize "what you need" for your aviation mission before searching for your Mooney and then stick to that list! I say this humbly, because I wasted SOOO much time chasing desire and conjecture versus actually getting into something real and practical... Well, as practical as GA can be! Buying and owning an airplane is journey in itself with a learning curve. You can learn a ton from the forums, but everyone has different needs and this is as it should be. Your Mooney journey will be different, so lay out your guiding principles, and go get one! Now for me, I conducted a mission assessment and my journey unfolded like this: 1) Where will I primary fly?... I am in the Central US in the Ohio River valley at 500 MSL. No mountains, mild winters, density altitude no factor, HUMIDITY a huge factor. Which Mooney model would work... all of them! BUT it did go into a hanger! 2) How will I use it... Local VFR/IFR Training/Cross Country? For me a little of everything, but IFR training was the top of that list. Which Mooney model would work... all of them! BUT Avionics was a MUST and I got some! 3) Who is flying with me 80% of the time... I have a family with Spouse + three kids AND parents and siblings all nearby. Could have easily got tripped up here, but despite this I fly ALONE 80% of the time, one passenger the remaining 19.99%, and in my eight years of flying I have carried two passengers simultaneously in any plane only twice! Which Mooney model would work here... all of them! I could split hairs and obsess about the extra leg room in the F/G versus C/E, but for me this was irrelevant. If a family member complains I won't hear it again for another 4yrs! 4) Lastly and most importantly (for my mission) was where will it "Be Based?" How far of a drive is it to that airport? Are hangers available? Is Fuel on the field? Are there "skilled & willing mechanics" nearby? Are CFIs around? For me these answers were more important than "which airplane" in supporting my mission goals. Luckily, the market permitted an airport 15mins from me with all the above. If I had been forced to other airports in the area I could have been 45mins OR 1hr driving each way. Think about 90mins-2hrs total drive time for a few laps in the pattern. I am not judging anyone who does this, but for me that would have killed the joy. And as a parent with three children and spouse, had I stared pulling 4hr disappearing acts my spouse would have killed the plane. Also worth mentioning, last week my battery died and it was a non-event. I went home, shop took the plane, three days later I am back in the air. Location, location, location for me, but again everyone is different. In the end a C, D, E, F, or G would have accomplished my mission IF the avionics were up to snuff. A 1966 M20E Super 21 was on the market when I was looking that fit my checklist items. I went for it. Am I happy with this bird? F@#$ YES! Could I have been happy with another bird? Sure! I feel like I've provided a lot of what you didn't ask for, so I'll try to end with what I think you wanted to know... Could I go back to a C now that I've flown the E? NO. I love the 200hp with fuel injection. Not messing with carb heat/carb icing is great. Love the Johnson-Bar manual gear. Love the manual flaps. I intentionally looked for these to reduce maintenance cost and increase reliability. Now, had I been given the choice between an E or F "all things beginning equal" I guess I would have bought the F. Would that scenario ever exist? NO. Would I pay more for an F over an E similarly equipped? NO. Does the extra leg room matter for my mission? NO. Plus, when I was shopping C's & E's were everywhere but F's & G's were rare as hen's teeth. Would I wait for an F? NO. To close, I love my E. This bird does easily does 135kn @ 7.5gph at 4500ft if I make a perfunctory attempt to lean. Honestly, my current training focus is "when to start TOD" for slowing the plane for landing. I find myself in the yellow a lot... but that is topic for another thread! Make your mission list, prioritize, and stick to it. Don't let analysis paralysis ground you. Good luck on Mooney journey! Z

Thank-you all for the comments and advice. @takair you were correct. To my surprise there "was" one on eBay that I quickly snatched up. In the future I'll start my searches there. Once I receive this part I'll test for function, then depending how bold I'm feeling may perform exploratory surgery and cleaning. I'll take pictures and follow-up as things progress! Z