tcal780

I verified the ignition wiring was correct and the SOS is functioning properly. I also took the opportunity to replace the ignition harnesses which really needed to be done. Yesterday, I got the plane out of the hanger for another attempt and it fired right up! I don't think it took more than one revolution with the starter. My only conclusion is that I did not give it enough fuel on the last attempt. This time, I ran the boost pump with the throttle closed until the fuel flow showed 0GPH. Then, followed a normal, cold start procedure. Anyway, while the old starter was still serviceable, I'm super happy with the SkyTec and glad to have installed it.

Thanks for this. From what I've read, since the gear engages, the bendix drive is likely still good and needs a cleaning, unless the spring is shot. Either way, there's enough justification for me to replace it with a new one that also gives me 10lbs back of useable weight. Next opportunity I get, I'll check those connections at the ignition switch.

Engine didn't start, but we didnt have much time to diagnose. I heard the SOS buzzing and I did smell fuel, but not one cyl fired. The mags were fine last time the bird flew in February. It turns out it was a good thing that it didn't fire up. After the battery quit, i discovered the starter gear failed and stayed engaged to the flywheel. Lighting/dimmer install complete.

Progress pics. Panel is installed, the main buss is in, all the Mooney systems are powered, and the EDM900. I learned a few lessons there. Particularly with the gear actuator breaker. I should have separated it or, at least, put it on the end. That 25Amp breaker style is different from the others, so i had to cut the buss bar, jumping to and across it. Relabeling the panel was not acceptable to me. Planning a run-up this weekend, then on to the avionics.

Matthew P, PM me your address. I'll ship them out tomorrow.

I'd be willing to donate them if this project is going to lead us to a source for these gears for the community.

Yes, exactly. These gears aren't serviceable. Backlash was out of spec.

Not sure if it's still relevant, but I have a 20:1 set I replaced 2 years ago

Hi Dennis, Thanks for your thoughts on this. Superior made the panel. In order to replace the rubber isolators and keep the panel in the same position/angle as the original, we machined 4 lower mounts out of 1/2 billet. Each is two pieces, that effectively clamp the 1/2" support via (11) 2" #8 screws and nuts. #10's would not fit in the existing holes. The outer mounts are about 7-1/2" long and the inner ones are about 3." The left side inner mount needed some additional work since there's a weld there to contend with. I've attached a photo of the mounts test fitted with the acrylic template.

I'm going to try switching the bulbs to incandescent and use the two ground pins as the switched 14v+ and a use the #1 pin as the common ground. The housing itself isn't grounded, so this should solve the problem with the push to test circuit mentioned in the above post.

I'm adding a stall indicator light (red) between the two gear lights.

They will be right above the altimeter.

Dang. I knew I forgot something! It's right under the backup CDI to the right of the switches. I didn’t put the cap on it yet.

Thanks jamesm, You make good points, but if that panel ever must come out again, a pitot static test would be the least of my concerns. I did consider flush mounting both G5's and the EDM900. Ultimately, I chose panel mounting only because flush mounting requires more space and this configuration would not have been possible. It was important to me to have the EDM900 located there, on the left. A flush mount would have forced me to place it on the right side. I decided, if I couldn't flushmount both the G5's and the EDM900, they would all stay panel mounted.

Agonizingly slow, but making progress! Question for those of you who are using the push to test LEDs from Lonestar for your gear warning lights... The wiring diagram for the light shows one 12v+ on pin #1. Pins #2 and #3 are grounds. When pushing to test, the light closes the circuit with #3. #2 is used for a switched ground (ie. gear position). I thought it would take two 12v+ inputs with a common ground, but it's opposite. How did you make this work?

Thank you. Ill never need to disconnect it, only to replace it. Splicing would only be an option if I decided to replace it with the new Zef unit. As you know, there are no wires on the original unit, so the connector would be required.

Yes, mine is the old metal one. I'm on the fence. My old one works (worked) fine, but I mangled the old connector in an attempt to re-pin it. I'm not a fan of replacing the VR before it's needed, but there’s enough advantage for me to consider it... Heck, for just the weight savings alone. If you find one in your hangar, I would be interested. Thanks, Tcal

Anyone know where I may source a connector for the voltage regulator?

I purchased a used 106A.

Thanks for the suggestions Don. I am planning to use the maxdim duo (or two single max dimmers). I prefer to not mix incandescent and LED, so I'm not sure what to do with the throttle quadrant lights. This is (was) a vertical panel but the existing brackets and vertical rack rails are not suitable for reuse. I'll will need a new plan for those. This will be a two piece panel with the breakers all on the far right. Tcal

I finished 95% of the old panel cleanup. The remaining wiring seen in the photo will stay. A couple questions for the group: First, panel mounting. Are there "standard" mounting brackets and avionics rails available for a new panel like this or will I need to have them fabricated? The avionics guy said vibration isolators are not needed anymore, citing Garmin avionics often don't work well with them. Is this the case? Second, some advice on lighting. I am considering a combination of LED bezel ring lights for the 5 round instruments and an LED strip light on the underside of the glareshield for an overall flood. I'd also like to have the toggle switches or switch labels illuminated. The original throttle quadrant/flap labels and compass are also illuminated with incandescent bulbs. Can these be converted to LED? Ideally, I would like the avionics and the instrument ring lights to be on one dimmer and the remaining flood/panel lights to be on a second. What would you recommend? Thanks!

My son and I just started the journey of updating the panel on my 1970 C! I'm super excited to do this with him as he has been working for the last 18 months at my local airport as an apprentice to gain his A&P cert. We're both going to learn a lot. His boss, the local IA, has agreed to oversee, and sign off on the project. Going in: Dual G5's GNC255A GMA345 GI106A (backup-only for Nav2) JPI900 Cies fuel senders Aera 760 Going Out: Vac system Century HSI Intercom Original Engine gauges KI214 KX175B The KX165, the STEC30 and the GNX375 will stay. The pics will give you all an idea of where the panel was, where it's at, and where it's headed. This is the progress we made just this past weekend. Best, Tcal

Thanks Greg! I just reached out to them.

Hi All, Curently in the process of a panel upgrade and would like to have the original airspeed indicator serviced. It functions normally; pitot/static is current, but the glass has become a little cloudy. Any recommendations on a shop that would service this? I'm in PA. Thanks, Tcal

Hi All, I'm hoping to get a head start planning for my panel layout. Sure, I could pull the current panel and trace it out, but I need to get in my fair share of planning (overthinking). If anyone has a CAD drawing of the panel for a 1970C they could share, I would appreciate it. I'm probably going with a 2 piece, but I'm not sure. TIA