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That’s a really good idea. I did get some windshield wiper fluid that defrost up to -22 but didn’t have it with me at the time. I was doing short field practice at a nearby airport when I got out to get fuel I noticed that ice had accumulated in the wheel well. My options were leave the Airplane at another airport or get back in and fly at home 10 minutes. Since I had already made a bunch of laps in the pattern without noticing any performance problem, I decided to bring the plane home.

They are AIR HAWK 600-6 6PLY. . that’s what was on it when I bought the plane.

Never seen this before, maybe you all have? I had water spray up from my wheels and form ice on the bottom of the wing and the wheelwell. Made my nervous but I flew home without a problem. Would you? Don't really know to prevent this. IMG_5664.HEIC.pdfIMG_5665.HEIC.pdfIMG_5666.HEIC.pdf

If I have trouble or gained a little extra speed in my climb out, as I'm raising the gear, I push the nose down for a moment, this almost throws the gear up into the airplane. Opposite for gear down, I pull up, it slows the plane to gear extension speed, and I drop the gear, the extra little pull pulls the gear down for me as soon as I unlock the bar....

Anyone using wing covers in the winter? I am wondering if it's worth the trouble buying and using them. Had to cancel a few flights due to frozen snow and ice on my wings recently. Not sure if it's worth the time to put them on and take them off every flight.

Anyone have a way to put a reminder to FBOs not to over turn your airplane when pulling it with a tug? Just relocated to an FBO where they move the airplanes around and hoping they don't damage my nose gear. Looking for something that would go where the tow bar fits that says "poor turning radius do not over turn" Might ask a welder to fabricate one if there isn't anything commercially available.

So with mine, I had two things going in. 1) started leaking and I had it resealed by my mechanic with the little kit of gaskets Lasar sells. Then 2) the flaps would retract slowly while down and would not stay down in the air. I assumed it was a problem with the valves after his reseal but he found that it was the cable the pulls the flaps down was loose in the underbelly of the airplane. He tightened it a few inches and it solved the problem. My only concern is that if the cable was loose I may have overspread the flaps and I’m lot sure what the integrity of that cable is.

Just wondering, is this considered a field modification? Just need a mechanic sign off to be legal?

Just wondering about updated mechanic recs for my M20C as I am just moving to NH to be based at MHT. Saw the older post about Infinity aviation in nashua but seems like they are more for the turboprop jet crowd. Thanks!

I never do .. but I think the mechanics do when they did the run up after annual

Thanks for our help! i should have realized others have had this problem before and looked it up more. Hopefully its just flushing the system or replacing seals then re-coining the ball behind the flow screw and go from there. I have 4 hours on the airplane since the hydraulic cylinder and brakes were worked on (for a leaking parking break) before the problem with the flaps started. I bet my flap retract cable is as old as the airplane... 1968. Thanks a again for the advice.

Fair enough, sorry

Wondered if anyone has some insights on this: yesterday I put my flaps down to take off, when I applied power, the air pressure on the flaps caused them to retract as I was on take off roll / just becoming airborne. I made it around the pattern and put the flaps down on short final, had to pump them continuously to keep them down, fortunately the breaks worked... I did have some hydraulic work done a few flight hours ago because the parking break was leaking fluid. My mechanic replaced the seals to the parking break and hydraulic cylinder. He also said he added a easier method to fill cylinder from the cowl (some sort of pipe) instead of having to go behind the firewall. Anyone with thoughts about what might be wrong?

Yes, I’m basing that off the poh. Here is my performance at 5000. My Cis a 1968. The key number isn’t listed in my poh but makes a lot of sense.

Question for you all, sounds like some of you are leaning at mixture settings above 75% BHP? ie "Full throttle at 2500 rpm up to 9500 at most and a little over 10 gph" I always thought settings above 23 x23 I had to keep the mixture in full on an o360 bellow 10,000 msl to stay below 75% bhp. Or, was that because my poh was written pre-engine monitoring technology?