all4thekidz

We installed the P lead adapter for doing the timing. This takes the ground OPTION out of the mix. The engine starts fine with no kick back. It runs really rich and after some leaning it runs fine indicating it is running on one Mag. Because the P lead is disconnected when you go to RIGHT on the key switch it should continue to run, grounding out the left MAG. In this case the engine dies indicating the Right Mag is not functioning correctly when installed on the Aircraft. I am going to remove the Mag and conduct another bench test. I appriciate all the comments and continue to work through this problem. If the bench test is not good this time I will do a rebuild using a rebuild kit for both Mags. Next challenge will be the installation of the FLAP/TRIM panel.

I have tested the right P Lead several times and every way and it TESTS fine. I see no need to replace or repair what test out with no issues. Should I rewire the Right p lead again? Is there another way to test the P lead? I have followed every recommendation on how to test the P lead and every way appears to function normally. VR TODD

I believe this Mag was gone into during the complete rewire phase of this rebuild. My thoughts are that the GEAR was installed 180 degrees out and although it test fine on the bench it is firing on the exhaust stroke therefore not resulting in a spark while fuel is in the cylinders. I am at a loss and reaching for straws any thoughts? I am going into the the right mag tomorrow! Thanks TODD

I believe one of the Studs to the Governor is a WET Stud and would require sealing. If this is not done properly it will leak like a sieve! This happened to ME! TODD

Details: When the Aircraft is cranked it starts with no issues. During the Mag check when placed to Left there is NO change in RPM or engine sound. When I go to Right the aircraft DIES! The first time I did this at test RPM and did get a slight backfire but subsequent test have been at IDLE! >>The Right Mag was removed thinking the points needed cleaning and to test the capacitor which tested out fine. >>The Key switch has been tested to the Magnetos and appears to function properly. >>Right Magneto was removed cleaned and tested and appears to be firing properly. >>When installed it was timed to 25 degrees and both mags time properly. >>I also have to lean aggressively to ensure smooth operation of what appears to be an engine operating on ONE Magneto! We are at a lose to why this is happening! Any ideas we will accept. VR TODD

I have finally properly installed my manual/Emergency gear down lever in the cockpit thanks to Lance! Currently I have discovered that the over center braces are around 25-35 ft pounds on each side respectively and I have shortened the adjustments to the minimum. What other adjustments could be off? I believe the over center test is supposed to be around 22 ft pounds? Any assistance in finalizing the Main landing gear would be appriciated. VR TODD

My 2 year struggle continues as I am always in the last 5 to 10% on completion. right now trying to get this cable correctly installed since the MM is poor on depictions. Thanks hope to get some detailed photo's TODD

while you have your panels off for replacement can you send pictures of the layout in the cockpit and under the belly. I am working on a project that had the cable removed so I amiss at routing. Additionally I sent the old cable to McFarlane cables and they were able to duplicate for about 225! You can send direct to my email if you would like. Todd todd.chambers@outlook.com

I am looking for as many photos of the electric gear configuration both under the belly and inside behind the panel where the Manual gear lever is positioned. Does the manual gear lever have a bracket or is it connected to the tubing? Additionally I have seen different layouts of the spring and lock mechanism to engage the manual gear. Additionally I have a question about the nose gear. I have replaced the bushings and I still have play where the bolt connects the steering mechanism to the gear. It appears the hole that is goes through has been Wallered out. Is there a fix to this or do I have to replace the gear? Thanks TODD

Prop overhaul complete. New tires tubes bearing repacked. Brakes cleaned and leaks stopped. Altimeter installed. Next hurdle is installing bracket next to gear actuator. Then on to steering bushing. Should be running in about 3 weeks! I will prevail!

After recommendations I took it to another shop and they were content that the prop was good for another overhaul and therefore I will be in business in short order. almost 2 years working on this darn "F". I will not give up!!!! TC

this is the problem I had! Prop had about 900 hours but the age was around 12 years, was removed for some major work on the engine so I decided to send the prop for overhaul since it was off and its age not due to any performance issues. I received the prop back in a BOX along with the blades claiming they were .0050 outside a limit and a replacement prop would cost $$$$$$$. Now I have a disassembled prop and like working with your doctor I am interested in a second opinion. Most prop shops are not interested in looking at a disassembled prop! The wooooos of ownership!!! TC

I have rebuilt sending units that are 30ohms. The F model has sending units on the inboard and outboard of the fuel tanks. I could not figure out why the gauge (NEW) was only increasing to 1/4 of a tank when the floats where moved to the up position. After further investigation it appears the previous owner had Mitchell fuel gauges installed bought from Spruce and the Ohms on the gauge according to the box is 0-200 ohms. I believe this is the problem! I have been told that the sending units are cumulative and I need a 0-60 ohms gauge? I am not so sure that the Ohms would be cumulative according the wiring diagram in the maintenance manual? I have found 30 ohm gauges on spruce for 105 dollars but I don't want to make another mistake as the previous owner had. Any insights would be appreciated. Todd M20F 1967

Great responses. Thank you. 1. After checking around It appears a guy I work with at the flightline also has a Mooney and will loan his set to check the torque. thanks Dave your prices for new are the best I have been quoted. 2. After a few calls I determined I will send my throttle and Prop cables off to MacFarlane to have them duplicated. Idea: What is the chance that they also make the manual gear down cable???? 3. I will continue to search for the cap to screw on to my Landing gear switch in the meantime it works just fine. 4. Great information on the gear and will take another look to make sure I was not visualizing the wrong actuator as the Trim.

After a very pleasurable discussion with Maxwell, he advised me to create a post for advice on landing gear issues. 1. Looking for a company or person that makes the 2 landing gear torque tools. If there is someone out there that no longer needs theres or recommendations on a company that sells them for a reasonable price. 2. Where can I find a manual gear down cable? The one I am looking for is the larger cable that comes from the manual crank. The one I have has corrosion at the gear end but spins and functions well. 3. The gear down switch in the cabin is a locking 2 position switch and very heavy duty but does not have the large white circle handle. Is this a cap that snaps or screws on to the large switch? 4. The gear functions well but there is a lot of grease around the screw gear and wonder if I should remove the motor and gear clean and re grease? 5. FLAP Question: Where can I find a kit to replace the o'rings in the rear actuator? Or can I remove and replace with a fitted o'ring from bench stock? 6. More to follow. Thanks TC