trecool44

For sale is the engine gage cluster from my '63 M20C. Garwin P/N 22-166-010 Mooney 660013 503. Intermittently it reads high oil temperature. All other gauges working fine. $295 obo. Thank you.

Yes, the audio panel is still available. The radio is sold. Please let me k ow if you are interested. Thank you.

For sale is a CP136 audio panel with tray, connectors, and wiring including 2 sets of headphone jacks. I purchased it as part of troubleshooting which did not end up being the issue. I have tested it in the aircraft so it is known working. Com with tray but no connector is also known working. Thank you for looking and let me know if you have any questions. Audio Panel - $250 Com - $80

For sale is a set of C model cowlings. Both upper sides and the upper panel. All 3 are in good physical condition with no bends or dents. Just paint and ready to install. The green and white one has a flange riveted on the bottom edge which could be removed if required. Green and white is $150 obo, teal/green/white is $200 obo, upper cowl is $250 obo. Thank you for looking and please let me know if you have any questions.

There is an STC for the Lasar mods. When I bought it, it did not come with the stc paperwork. This did not bother me for a simple part like this, hence the lower price. Thank you.

I bought it for my '63 M20C. It's the Lasar one so it fits M20A-M20G.

It is made of fiberglass.

Sold ! Thanks everyone for looking.

There is no shim under the starter. The only thing that comes to mind is that the starter is bent from a kickback in history and the was just on the verge of working with the old engine. This engine might just be different enough to make them too far apart. Just an I idea though.

It is the same starter ring and starter from my old O-360. I'm having a hard time contemplating how that distance could get bigger.

It does resemble that to an extent. Mine does mesh about .040 and doesn't look so ripped down towards the tip. And for clarification the bendix is extending fully. The engine will crank until the first compression stroke then the starter pops over the ring gear teeth.

The bendix is extending fully. The propellor is clocked correctly (timing marks on starter ring verified and prop was marked before removal). What could cause the starter to be too far away from the crank centerline?

It is a skytec LS. I changed the solenoid on the starter but I'm pretty sure that wasn't the problem. I am very confused on how the distance between the ring and the gear could change since it worked on the old engine. What do you think?

after another look I realized the gears were only meshing on the beveled tips of the teeth. How much usually meshes?

I used the same starter and ring gear from the old engine.