Clparker23

I had a leak at the fuel sender and it was hard to see, look under the carpet in the back seat area. I pulled the side panels off the passenger side and finally discovered the leakage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a budget of 20 amu to work with, I’m looking to upgrade the stuff I use the most. I have flown 98% of the time outside of adsb space. I have a panel made and powder coated, I bought a few Clinton breakers but need to purchase the remainder. I’ve decided to keep my transponder and go with the uavionix adsb option later. I have purchased a ei cgr30c cluster gauge replacement and it needs to be installed. I have a quote for panel and cgr install for $4200. What I’m looking at is the following: pse pma 8000bt - $4105 installed garmin gnc 255a - $5495 installed aspen e5 - $7895 installed Let me know what your opinions are on what I’m thinking about purchasing, those 3 items are yet to be bought. If anyone has looked into the e5, does it cost $4000 to install? Thanks in advance. Clayton

Greg, What was the turn key cost on the panel upgrade? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am also curious to this situation, I personally can stay out of class c but would like to fly above 10,000, so I’m looking at this ads b “investment”. I currently have kx170’s, old audio panel and transponder. I have bought a EI CGR 30c cluster gauge replacement and had a custom panel made but have not installed either, I have a quote of $3500 to install both. I have a $20k budget and want to get the best for my buck. I have been looking at when installing CGR and panel: Garmin GMA 345 Stratus ESG Garmin gnc 255a nav/com/gs Quoted $19.5k for additional equipment purchase and install of all. Does anyone have any other thoughts or suggestions? I have a EI ubg 16 installed but have been very skeptical of my old gauges, so my driver has been reliable engine monitoring and while at it, reliable simple communications. Sorry to hijack but thought maybe similar situation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked through the list and could find a double pole single through 50 amp 12volt coil, or am I missing it. I thought the closest was the 6041h53...but it’s a single pole double through. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found some used exact replacements at Texas air salvage for $225, is that good/bad? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What relays are available to upgrade to? I located the cutler hammonds online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update: The 5 amp breaker when checked again checked out good. As well as pressure switch, gear switch and main 25 amp breaker. I put the plane on jacks, spent a lot of time checking continuity and touching this/that. And never found anything that just jumped out at me. I stepped away for 15-20 min, went back to it, flipped the gear switch and gear goes up. Cycle it again and then it doesn’t. I go back under press on the indicated limit switch in the pic a couple times and re cycle and gear goes up. I sprayed it with contact cleaner while pressing in and out quit a bit, and I’ve been able to cycle the gear regularly now. It seems there’s a delay of 4-5 seconds but it does cycle. I’m going to order a limit switch and replace, as indicated in the pic, one has been replaced at some point and I think the culprit is the old original. If anyone could advise their thoughts it’s greatly appreciated. (In the pic gear is in the down position). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found that the 5 amp breaker next to the 50 amp is not showing continuity, it will not pop out or in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve reviewed the schematic last night quite a bit, I’m down to up limit, I’m going to check the continuity of “common” and “Nc” coming from the pressure switch, it’s a newer switch that’s been replaced I can tell. The down limit is an original. As far as the relays, if I were to send a pic of what I was staring at, would you be able to guide me to what to check. I’ve seen some relays in pics on here and these look a little different. The motor/actuater looks newer as well, previous owner said it was rebuilt in CA not long ago. I’m going to redo my pressure switch, I was by myself the speed was actually around 150, I’m going to try and get it to that 80/90 mark and see if it’s working there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m showing continuity at the retract switch and the pressure switch at 100mph. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had to you tube last night how to check ohms on a switch, I’m not 100% sure how though. On the retract switch, Do I remove the wires connected to the switch? And use ohms? can it be done with leads connected? Is this all done with master off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After thinking about it, I came to the realization that it’s not breaker or throw switch, because it comes down fine...I was told to check pressure switch by jumping two wires and trying it...if it works it’s the pressure switch, if it doesn’t, it’s motor or limiting switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Negative fix on the breaker terminal corrosion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m going to give it a good cleaning and try it out this afternoon. Fingers crossed that what it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did the tubing on the pitot trick the other day, just to check if there was leakage in the system somewhere, everything appeared to hold pressure. I think I found the culprit, 25 amp gear breaker is blue colored from corrosion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I’ve got pressure sensor instead of squat sensor...I think. Its been acting up, like not retracting on the first throw of the retract switch but would on the second...then it would take 3-4 tries, last time I flew it wouldn’t at all. I havent pulled and reset breaker yet, but it wasn’t popped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

67’ F: Where are the up/down limit switches located and what is the best place to access for inspection/cleaning. I’m chasing gear not retracting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought a used ubg 16 and I need to purchase cht probes. What I’ve found is that they need to be k type, 3/8” 24. Does anyone have a suggestion to what kind. I’m trying to avoid spending $350 on cht probes, does a universal work? I saw there might be a need to piggy back the #3 to keep it legal as well. I’ve been searching for probes for a while but have come up with limited options. Thanks in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would I even have to unplug the CDI to move from the indicated holes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm, I have worked a little with PI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for getting back with me, I was almost positive on that but wanted to get the communities thoughts, I’m 9 months into my first airplane ownership and typically like to do everything I can, 1. To save money b. To learn more about what I’m working on. Thanks again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wanted to move a CDI from one hole to another. The hole I want to move it to has an old magnetic bearing indicator in it that I’d like to remove completely. Is this something I can do myself? Or do I have to have an a&p do it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will now look things over a little closer while it sits in the hanger and not just walk by thinking everything should be fine. I’m gonna peal the panels off and look around a little more often.

Took a trip with the family this weekend, I noticed having to increase rpm to maintain a smooth idle when taxi’ing, I had a gurgle from the engine while climbing around 8500. I nosed over and pointed to a runway, but everything smoothed out and gauges showed green, we made it to our destination and on final when I pulled back on the power it wanted to “die”. Made the landing and pulled the cowl off to find an intake pipe retainer no longer attached to the cylinder.