bbakerco

Current engine is now past TBO at 2150 hrs. Just came out of annual 2 months ago with compressions at 76/78/78/78 and no sign of engine wear in 50 hour oil changes. The engine has had a minor oil leak that is presumed to be at the back bottom of the crankcase (from dye test) since I purchased it (didn't show up on pre-buy). Nothing on the floor, just a small amount that gets blown around the engine compartment and ends up accumulating on nose gear doors and belly over time. Other A&P's tried addressing it without success. Can't be addressed without pulling engine and even then, no guarantee it can without resurfacing case halves. So since the engine is past TBO, also needs new engine mounts and some new hoses. Seems like the time to get it all done. I guess it's possible to pull the engine, try to fix the leak, reinstall with new mounts and hoses, but if that doesn't fix the leak, I'm out $$$ with an engine that is still past TBO. Also, a Turbo Normalizer was installed in 08 (1200hrs) from M20TurboKits out of FL which doesn't appear to be in business any longer. But they used a Rotomaster turbo and scavange pump and Rotomaster is here in PHX area so I'm going to check into getting that rebuilt. That's about all I can think of. If it weren't for the oil leak, needing new mounts, and hoses, mechanic thinks she'd be good for a few hundred more hours.

Hello oh wise keepers of Mooney knowledge, The time has come to replace the engine in my M20J 201. (IO-360-A3B6D). It's my first time ever replacing an AC engine so excuse my ignorance. I'll admit that I did not look through all 175 pages of topics so I'm sure that some answers to my questions are burred somewhere in this monster. My budget is $30k without additional financing. My options as I see them are: 1. Buy crate engine from someone like PennYan (other recomendations???) and have it swapped. Pro: Quick turnaround on M20. Better resale value (although not planning on selling). Financing? Con: $$$$ 2. Have my A&P tear it all down, send out for machining, assembly, etc. Pro: Lower cost? (but more labor). Con: Slower turnaround. 3. Buy a certified block and have it built up until ready to swap. Pro: Lower cost? Quicker turnaround. Con: Frankenmotor? Is there a 4rd option? Am I missing any Pros/Cons? I fly about 15 hours a month so I don't really want to be without the plane for 3 months but if it saves me $5k or more then probably strongly consider. Successes, Horrors, Regrets with any of the above? Is my budget about right or too low for everything? Thanks, Bryan

Correct, there's not. There's even wear marks on the current cover. Only talking about like 1/8" thickness.

Has anyone put toe brakes on the co-pilot side of a J? Is it possible? Is it allowable? I found a set of pilot side rudder peddles. I figure if anyone has done it, it'd be one of you guys.

Thanks much Oldguy!!!!

Hello all, Trim chain cover was removed at last annual and screws are nowhere to be found. I found the cover but what size are the 4 screws that hold the cover onto the assembly. It's a pretty flimsy piece of plastic and thinking of 3d printing something a bit sturdier. Related question, what is the proper lube for the trim chain? Thank you. Bryan

All, It’s not easy to understand from the description, reviews, posts, etc, the difference between the Orion 600 and 650 (other than the price). I’m replacing my strobes, anti collision and wonder what the pros and cons are to each. Looks like either would work fine. 1978 M20J 201 12v. Flat wing tip. Thoughts??? Regards, Bryan

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll let you know what I find out. One curious side note that just occurred to me is that I was having autopilot issues but the trim wasn't disconnecting until after the annual which include a Pitot / Static check. Hmmmmmm......

Hello All, I have a M20J 201 with a King AI and KAP/KFC 200 autopilot. Was having some AP issues and figured it was due to the AI because it wasn't reading correctly anyway. That AI is the backup and for the AP because primary AI is an Aspen PFD. Issues got worse when after having the AP active (ALT Hold) the AP would keep trimming the nose down until the electric trim disconnected and the TRIM annunciator flashed on the AP panel. Then I'd switch the AP off and the plane would nose over because it was trimmed so nose down. Just replaced the AI but the exact same problem happens. It's only when the ALT hold is activated. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be now that I have a new AI? Thanks,Bryan